BewstAdd1ct

anyone who has found that an ignition coil was the cause of this problem, please mail me the failed coil. PM me and ill reply with an address.

i just need it in a padded envelope, shouldnt be more than like $3-4 or so to mail.


thx.

jjames

why???????????/

BewstAdd1ct

understanding of the problem, and what the actual failure is. im gonna try and provide a better diagnosis of the problem.


dont ask, just send

MAX HARDCORE

I had the now infamous 1320's for months before i finally decided to replace my coils. The engine light and idle issues went away completely. A mindless zombie could do the job in about an hour, coils about $50 each. Mine had a red dot on them, most people say the dot is silver or grey. Got me there. Anyone know why?????

BewstAdd1ct

nope, but can you send me your old ones?

Split Level

iTrader: (1)

why dont you pay shipping since YOU are the one who wants them??

Ephraim

iTrader: (15)

haha, i was wondering who was going to say this first

BewstAdd1ct

im doing this for the .org...

so you want me to put 2 quarters in the mail, and pay another $0.39 in postage when you can just pay $1.32 or whatever...


its seriously okay tho... i already have a couple for testing.

twllin

iTrader: (6)

red coils are refurbushed jk lol i dunno why its red but the newest ones dont even have the dot

reMaxxxK

iTrader: (20)

are u sure? I don't know the answer, but what I got from Dave recently got Gray dot #22448-2y000

twllin

iTrader: (6)

Positive i sell coils on the org same part number. unless it was just a batch that didnt get the grey dots that i got? but i sold to about 20 or so people on teh org so i dont think so

dshadow35

How do you test if your sensors are bad?

jmal

I will have 5 extra coils soon...don't know which one(s) is bad though, just going to replace the 5 old ones and end this tiresome P1320 crap. The first time it happened I think I actually had a P1321, replaced the coil in the first bank and was all set. Lately the computer doesn't seem to want to narrow it down to a cylinder, just gives me a general misfire code. Soooo, you can have em. I'll let ya know when the new ones are in.

sniz

BewstAdd1ct: Did you come to any conclusions on this? I was going to dissect my old #1 coil, but if you've already figured something out..

I noticed the transformer on some of my front coils were starting to rust and the paint was bubbling up. If it's a moisture issue, maybe it can be prevented by sealing the housings. My #1 coil died at 85k miles. It would be nice to prolong the life of the rest of them if it isn't too late.

Thanks,
jt

kdaullary

iTrader: (1)

the failure is theres no resistance.

sniz

Which would most likely be a shorted coil.. but what's causing it to short? It looked to me like the entire coil is encased in epoxy.

GOLD00GXE5SPD

iTrader: (5)

is it always a failed coil with a p1320? if so, how hard is this to change. where can i find directions so i can save some money on install?

808MAX-SPEC

iTrader: (7)

The tech who diagnosed my problem said that the coils insulation deteriorates over time. Whatever that means. I'd rather sell my lot for cheap cuz maybe only one or two maybe bad.

sniz

It's not always the coil, but it seems to be most common problem. They're easy to replace. (I'm talking about a '00 Maxima here, but I think they're all similar)
You can swap coils to see if the problem follows the coil - if the same cylinder misfires after swapping, it could be the wiring harness or connector.
Search this forum and google for more info.

Be careful if your SES light starts flashing.. it means potential damage to your catalytic converter.

I got a coil from rockauto.com for about $50 and it was the new style with the gray dot on it. It's been 2 months and no more problems. I've seen several posts from people that were charged anywhere from $600 to $1000 to have the dealer replace all 6 coils, so it's definitely worth doing yourself if you can.
The SES light went off by itself after a week or two. (after 50 starts with no misfires I believe).

If you have questions, let me know.. what year is your Maxima?

sniz

Sounds likely... Maybe I'll try re-winding my dead coil

bert

Is it possible that a failing starter (stumbles during startup) could cause a P1320 missfire code to be set?

I had a P1320 a couple of months ago and got it cleared. It came back a month ago. Every now and again 1/5-1/6 times the starter seems to hickup or choke when starting. If I keep the key in the START position the choke lasts 1-2 seconds and then the car starts.

Am I just being cheap and looking for trouble down the road?

GOLD00GXE5SPD

iTrader: (5)

00 max gxe...is it important to get ones with the grey dot...i hear that dave b. sells red dot coils...is there a difference? trhanks for the help

also, car starts up without any real problem and light stays on no flash...does that mean it is alright to drive on for a while...am i sacrificing driving for knock in the engine if i stay driving 30 miles a day for the next wk?

also, install instructions, if already written of course, would be a huge help and greatly appreciated. i am about as dumb as wood when it comes to fixing or replacing things but im willing to put in the time or effort to save some $$$$

sniz

I wouldn't blame the starter..
As far as I know, OBD-II doesn't set misfire codes until you accelerate to 55mph.

kdaullary

iTrader: (1)

Starter will not cause a misfire code or anyother mil. stumbling on startup? I asume you mean it is running rough or misfireing? starter would not have anything to do with that. bad coils will though.

kdaullary

iTrader: (1)

The mil will trip at any speed if there is a misfire. these codes will pop up on startup, or just about any other time there's a load on the engine. ( presuming you have an intermitent ignition failure). the ecu is is not speed sensitive....

kdaullary

iTrader: (1)

you shouldnt have a problem driving the car, these intermitent failures are just that. however when one does finaly give up the ghost youll know it. it will definatley miss all the time the coils are a breeze to change, its coil on plug, undo the electrical conector take it off the plug and reverse for install

sniz

'00 gxe.. of course, how did I miss that?
Apparently, the red dots are refurbished coils according to post #9 in this thread.

As kdaullary said.. it shouldn't be a problem. I'm assuming you already had someone scan for trouble codes since you mentioned the P1320 code? I had that plus a P0301 (cyl. 1 misfire) so.. if you didn't get a misfire code, it might be something else. I wouldn't to see you replace a coil without being positive it's the problem. I was getting intermittent loss of power for about a year before the coil completely died and I replaced it. A non-firing cylinder is easier to diagnose than an intermittent misfire.

The Haynes manual explains the replacement procedure, but not very well. Since the coil issue is so common I might take some pics for a how-to.

GOLD00GXE5SPD

iTrader: (5)

after sitting in on the newb thread for a while i got some directions http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451830
im going to have to go back for another OBDII test today because although an "unknown" code p1320 was thrown, everything else seems to be fine. im going to double check because like you said i'd hate to incurr extra repair costs if it won't fix the problem (which only seems to be ses light). maybe instead of autozone i should take it to a mechanic? who says he knows what he's talking about either though! anyway if that does end up to be the problem, would it be possible for someone to post dave b.'s number for me please. i lost it, even though i tend to order some stuff from him every month or so. thanks again for the help guys, you probably just saved me quite a bit of money!

although this reasoning may sound a bit dumb, i just recently did some suspension work when the problem occured. h&r front and htech rear, along with illuminas and a progress rsb and catt fstb. although i doubt this is connected to the problem, i drove it somewhat hard right afterwards to test it to see if i enjoyed the response (which, im iffy about right now). anyway, when i was taking off for a green light, i was watching the rpm and wot to about 3500 and i feel like that is the exact moment when the light flickered on, and stayed on. could it possibly be from driving pretty hard that one of the coils moved itself loose? or is this just wishfull thinking. i know that without checking obviously there is no real way of knowing, but has this or any other instance of a coil nudging loose be the primary reason for the ses light?

kdaullary

iTrader: (1)

Wishful thinking indeed. they wont remove themselves from the top of the plug, the misfire and intermitent primary signal failure codes usually set under hard accel or start up.

GOLD00GXE5SPD

iTrader: (5)

alright guys thanks so much for the help...ill start saving lol - so much for blehmco ltb!

808MAX-SPEC

iTrader: (7)

Just in case if anyone is interested.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/504020/7

Gallo

Where can I get good cheap coils for my Maxima SE 2000

Mikeb120

I got this code along with the 300 and 303. Looks like I got a bad coil.
Sounds like I can do this myself.
Do you know where I can find directions on how to do this?

Nevermind - I see the instructions on the cardomain link

tefrex

Oh my god, this forum and especially this thread is a godsend...

My 2000 maxima gxe with 107k is getting 1320s and 0303s. I bought it used around 64k and not sure if the coils have already been replaced or not. The closest dealership wants $979 to replace all six coils.

I already bought a OEM replacement coil for cylinder #3 from the their parts department (it has a grey dot). After reading this forum and doing some more research, I am now wondering if I should just go with the aftermarket coils instead of the Nissan OEM ones?

sniz

I don't see any problem with using the aftermarket coils.. I haven't read about anyone having any issues with them. Mine is about a month and a half old, and it's fine so far. I'm just going to replace them as they go instead of all at once. The spark probably gets weaker as they deteriorate, so if you're concerned about performance, I guess it's best to replace them all. But who knows.. the problem may not affect every coil. I know a few people with Maximas that haven't had this problem at all.

mist max2000

iTrader: (16)

FYI - ive replaced i think 3 coils-- 2 were "aftermarket" on cylinders 3(front middle) and 6 (rear driver) and one nissan coil in cylinder5 (front driver) ,.. reason being i bought the nissan one first,.. and it workd great.. then both at sperate times after that i needed coils asap so i got em from autozone/advanced? one of em idk which ,.. and their all the same and work great,.. only difference- one from nissan has the nissan burger on it oh aftermarket is also cheaper ,..

EDIT: oh yeah-- to TEFREX-please dont bring it to the dealer for a G,... these are eaiser then changing oil lol,.. there some great write ups and how to's on here,... you can honestly change the third coil in under 5 mins .. no lie ,... if you look at ur engine .. the thing that say's nissan 3.0 blah blah in silver and red.. the coil is under that ,.. u remove it with a hex tool,.. and BAM theres your coils,.. you unplug #3 ( middle one ) screw it out ( one screw .i think its an 11mm ) and pop right back in no prob,...please dont bring it to the dealer and spend 1000 bucks ,....if i wasnt 3000 miles from u i would help lol

tefrex

Thanks I really appreciate your feedback! If it were the ones in the front #2, #4, #6, then I would definitely try to do it myself. Here is the thing tho, #3 cylinder on my 2000 maxima is located in the back and to get to it, they said they have to tear down the intake manifold and that alone would cost around $300. Is that true? If that were the case, I would probably have them replace all 3 of them in the back while they are at it and leave the front ones alone.

As for the aftermarket coils, I am leaning towards them since there does not seem to be any performance difference and cost around 1/3 less.

I only found 2 sites with pictures on how to change the coils:

2001 Maxima (Thanks to 808MAX-SPEC):
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/504020/7

2002-2003 Maxima (Google):
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Gar...eplacement.htm

The first one looks simple enough. The 2nd one looks a little more involved. But neither of them mention about tearing down the intake manifold. So I am still at a loss if I should do this myself or take it to a mechanic. Also, the 2nd site mentions gasket replacement... does that apply to all maximas or just 2002-2003?

sniz

If yours is the same as my '00 SE, they're full of it. Take a look under your hood, and you should be able to see the rear coils between those black intake pipes. The rears are just a little hard to reach because you have to lean over the engine. The only thing I had to detach was a bracket that holds the throttle cable because it was partially blocking the rear drivers side coil.

I'll give them the benefit of the doubt and say they may have confused the '00 it with the '02/'03 configuration. Even so, it doesn't look like a job that would take more than an hour for an experienced mechanic.
(I'm assuming the mechanic was referring to the collector that's shown in the second link when he said intake manifold)

If the GLE and GXE are different than the SE, then I'm wrong.. I don't know for sure

tefrex

Hey, you're right Sniz. I actually just replaced the #3 coil myself. Took me a bit more than 2 hours. The hardest part was getting the electrical connector to unlatch... gotta push all the way down on those springs and then some. My thumbs hurt even now. There must be a tool out there for them... I used the Nissan coil I already bought... too lazy to return it for a refund... but if another coil goes, definitely going with the aftermarket ones.

sniz

Good deal! Yeah, those connectors can be a pain.. i just stick a small screwdriver in the little arrow and push them down. I guess they're supposed to stay down when you push them in but they don't always work, so you have to hold them down while you're pulling the plug out.. which is really annoying