Ok, so i had taken my car to the dealer to get a diagnostics. Later last night i drove the car and had an engine feedback noise similar to the noise you get from amped speakers, but it was comming from my radar detector. My radar is NOT hardwired. I also had SIGNIFICANT dimming when i turned on my AC but NOT when i turned up my system. When i got to my destination i turned off my car and turned it back on. it didn't even try to turn over. tried again it worked fine. tried again and it didn't try to turn over. tried again and it worked then continued to work. then i noticed the feedback was gone from my radar. I got out and my key FOB was not working. I tried to lock using the power lock button but that did not work either on my drivers door OR my passenger. So i go to it in the morning and my odometer reset itself to 0 in both trip A and B. Later today i noticed that after not being in the car for an hour and a half i got in, did NOT put the key in the ignition and my windows rolled down and up. I konw usually there is a 5 min window or something but that before you get out. This was an hour and a half after i had not been int he car and i had not even turned the car on.

I need serious help. And i've already been back to the dealer but all they did was use the consult through the ODB-II scanner port. Nothing else.

 

sounds like something is shorting... Check the fuses. Why were you at the dealer in first place? What did they do? What did they touch? Did they have to take anything apart for the first visit?

 

Alternator may be going out, causing the RFI -- also, you could have a bad ground somewhere between the battery and starter. Bad grounds cause your problem in a number of cases. The reset of trips implies that the ECU lost voltage for more than a couple of minutes.

Beyond that I can't help too much with this, you'd need to track down the wiring gremlins if it's a harness or ECU issue.

 

Your system is losing voltage. I know this sound like a REALLY silly suggestion, but my first bet would be that your battery terminals need to be retightened.

 

what those two said ^^^


the dealer should have performed a battery load test, an alternator load test, a diode ripple test and inspected al battery connections and body and engine grounds to start.

i bet he would have found something by then... you paid him for an hour diag, and i bet you didnt get an hours worth.

 

well they did the diagnostics using the consult so they did not remove or disconnect anything. They said i had some corosion on the terminal and i am working on cleaning that up. But what i dont get is how the doors cannot be unlocked but the windows will go down whenever. Its almost like they were switched somehow, which i know i didn't do. I haven't touched anything electrical in atleast a month. Thats that part that is really griping me. Everything has power except that the locks will not work. i'm really worried that i have my stereo and everything and my alarm is also not engagin due to the maunal locking of the car.

also, the battery isn't brand new but it is about a year and a half old or so. My alternator was replaced in the spring.

 

consult wont do a load test or ripple test.


and ive seen parts come out of the box already failed.

 

ya i know the consult wont do those tests i was just trying to show that they only did the diag threw the consult and not those tests.

does anyone know how i could have gotten the engine feedback from my radar? that really gets me. when i unplugged my radar it went away and when i plugged it back in it was back. when i turned the radar volume down the feedback noise went down. it was very bizzare because my radar is not hardwired. it was in the cig adapter in the rear. my cell phone was int he one in the front.

 

maybe form ac voltage form a diode ripple?


yeah, but he cant just pull codes and then find nothing and then say 'pay me'... you paid for an hour, you should get an hour. consult II only takes about 5 minutes...

 

what they did was diagnose my p0430 code and decide that the problem lies in my precats. i mean i'm sure i got what everyone gets when they go to the dealer but i dont have any other choice.

 

conclusion, i cleaned the battery terminals off because there was some corrosion on them and i put it back together and everything works. i can't believe it or explain it but it works like its suppose to and i'm extremely happy. thank you to everyone who helped. now lets hope everything else works too!

 

the battery cat absord the ac voltage as well when theres a resistance. this causes all the elctrical stuff which runs on DC, to do neat ****...

a load test would have revealed this, and he should have at least sold you a battery service.

id go ask for the diagnostic fee back...

 

i never had the dealer inspecting this problem. it happened afterwards. i actually brought it back there today to question him incase they did anything and he was the one who recommended that first i clean the terminal so there is nothing to worry about there. and if that didn't change anything to let them know and they would look further into it when i brought it there next week for the other problems it was having. so actually he did his job and it worked out for me. all i did was buy a $0.99 cent toothbrush to help scrub the terminals and it worked out.

 

Sounds like the alternator because the A/C puts more stress on it.

 

It sounds like the car is acting up quite a bit that it will do this in their presence. Take it back to the service place and describe what's going on with the car since they looked it over with the consult.

Who knows what happened while the consult was being plugged in or while it was plugged in. Look at the OBD-II port for signs of a forced or abused connector.

But most of all don't take any answer from them that sounds like BS.

 

about 2 post above i mentioned how i did what he said and cleaned the corossion off the terminal and it did work. so this is no longer a problem.

 

it may come back... just to give you a heads up

 

Did they do any re-programing of the ECU for your P0430 code ? On a Nissan if you interrupt the program writting process you eighter fry the ECU completly or just damage the circuit board causing communication problems between the ECU and the TCM or BCM. If the problem comes back, I would look at the BCM wireing from the drivers door to the BCM itself. There have been cases of the door harness shorting itself to ground or power and causing all kinds of weird gremlins to come out. BCM is your body control module, it controls your alarm, imobilizer, windows, locks, mirrors, seats, dashboard stuff like radio, climate control etc... I seen BCMs do really weird things, I had a 05 TL in the shop for 2 days trying to diagnose a problem with windows rolling down by themselfs, alarm going off, and doors unlocking when driving. Ended up needing a new B-Bus interface multiplex module- Hondas language for BCM.

 

they told me that there was no reprogramming neccessary so they didn't do any reprogramming. I am going to saftely assume that it was the corrosion on the terminals because i went to have my battery checked at autozone and they told me not to bother untilt he terminals were clean. I guess they were pretty bad. I didn't think it was a big deal but i cleaned them off and got some of that battery corrosion protect stuff for like $.99 and applied it.