i just finally got my udp put on, i know theres lots of opinions on whether its worthwhile, well heres my impressions.

measured with an autometer volt gauge.

while driving b4 14v after 14v
idle no sterio b4 14v after 13.75-13.99
idle with sterio b4 13.75-14v after 12.5-13v

so im obviously loosing a little power to my accs, but everything seems to be fine, im running about 600 watts rms.

as fas as power goes, i did notice a difference, it revs faster, but other than that power seems to have grown a tiny tiny bit, but i did ntice it.


act street/strip clutch. very easy to modulate and launch even with a fidanza flywheel. my old exedy had a defective pressure plate so im not too used to having a working clutch, this is very easy to use, awesome product

stainless clutch line. i cant tell the difference cause i did the clutch at the same time.

 

so you are saying its worht it then huh.

 

its hard to say. my pulley was only like 50 bucks and i got it installed for almost nothing so for me yes.

once i get the two piece 6th gen rotros that wieght 6.5lbs a piece as opposed to my 22 a piece all that reduction in rotational mass im sure itll make a bigger difference

anyone know how it would work if i got the v2 supercharger, could i still use my puley or would i have to go back to stock?

 

You would have to go back to stock or use the Unorthadox SC pulley (stock sized, lighter weight, only underdrives the power steering)

 

Where are you getting these 2 piece 6th gen rotors? I have been holding off on that mod for that very reason, I didn't want the extra rotational mass. I had my stock 5.5 gen ~11.8" front rotors deep cryo'd by hekimian racing and they work awesome, but these sound great and I could get them deep cryo'd too and they would outlast my car.
Just let me know your source so I could pick up a set.
Thanks.

 

Some info on those 2 piece rotors here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=437932

 

what were the current measurements at the field terminal?

 

im not sure what ur asking. im deff putting out less voltage, but it doesnt seem to be affecting anything.

update!
i think my car is adapting to the pulley, ive gotten many starts on it and it seems to have gotten more powerfull, this is how it seems to be acting.

1000rpm b4 nothing after nothing
2000 b4 nothing after slight power
2500 b4 starting to get power after decent power
3000 b4 decent power after lots of pull
4000 b4 lots of power after even more than lots
5000 vais not working b4 lots of power but starting to weakin, now lots of friggin power
6000+vais not working b4 flat power after starting to weakin
limit b4 never hit, after hit twice so far, but im sure im just not used to the new clutch.

 

[QUOTE=ColdSHO]update!
i think my car is adapting to the pulley, ive gotten many starts on it and it seems to have gotten more powerfull, this is how it seems to be acting.
QUOTE]

I've heard the ECU has to adapt to the UDP and sometimes it takes a couple of hundred miles to adapt to the new lighter weight. I don't know how true this is, but this is what I have heard.

When I was buying my UDP when doing some research I came across some posts where bros found that the UDP worked better as the ECU adapted.

 

im asking what your amperage measurement before and after was at the S terminal.

OBVIOUSLY you dont drop much voltage, thats because you have an eletronic regulator that controls field coil current, and when it overloads you burn up the alternator. so im just curious about the current measurements.

 

just a note...the 2-piece rotors are 16.5 lbs each, not 6.5 lbs each...

 

ah, even still 16.5 is alot light than the anchors i have now.

measurement, im not sure, i just using my voltmeter.

 

I've noticed that my car is more responsive over all with a noticeable increae in power throughout the RPM range. Right after I was happy not have a oil leak and squealing drive belts since I did the install myself. I'm happy with mine and what a difference between the stock pully. I think I'll tie a rope to it and use it as a boat anchor...

 

so set your voltmeter to amps and take a reading.

 

its in my triple pod, its not easy to tinker with sadly, ill see if i can borrow a ampmeter , where would u like me to test from?

 

ah, i forgot you were using your autometer. my bad.

if you happen to come across an ammeter, take a reading at the 's' terminal, under moderate load.

 

ill see what i can do, what numbers shoudl i be expecting, or just whats stock?

 

i was hoping you took a before and after measurement.