Hi guys. I was complaining about my trans awhile ago. I was also experiencing loss of power at low rpm plus my car was taking too long to shift between gears(I have an auto) I no longer have bad shifts after changing my trans fluid and installing my INjen CAI with intake bypass. I accidentally broke my Air mass meter( check pic) and I was forced to replace it. Check the pic of the final result. I no longer have any problems with shifting so I guess the MAF was the problem all along. The intake bypass is for water prevention and it serves as a short ram at low rpms. The growl is mean too.

My next mod is black ebay projectors with 8000k HID kit.
stay tuned

pic before install


pic after Injen CAI and Intake bypass


pic of broken MAF


What do you guys think?

 

1. That's not a CAI

2. MAF's are commonly faulty around these parts. I'm on an updated one

 

Its clearly a CAI. You cant see the full length of the injen tube (because its hidden) plus the intake bypass is an extra install for water sucking issues.
The bypass is the red mesh cylinder section immediately after the MAF adaptor.

 

What he means is the design of the Injen still sucks in warm air. The only intake that sucks in cold air via a cut hole in the wheelwell is the Place Racing CAI.

 

Oh ok now I got it. But Im good in the winter and spring since its really cold outside.

 

JUst a question were you getting a code?...or did you just replace it because you thoguht it could help somehow? I think im having the same problem but being that i am an automatic, and i just changed the filter, the spark 02 sesors are fine, my transmission seal is wearing down and leaking VERY VERY minimally. Anyway my friend (who is a mechanic) said that i shouldnt worry about my MAF until the cel comes on (but i am experiencing a great loss of power in the low end and im wasting gas like i dunno what).

 

watch out for water...... your car won't like the water.....

 

Sound's like 2000 Maxima MAF Failure to me, dont listen to the mechanics about its fine until the damned code comes on...

Usally a failing MAF will not throw a code until its completely dead...

 

Get the MAF! YOu will feel a difference. It's the magic fix all for our cars. I just replaced mine and the car runs like new. My old one now resides in the trunk for emergency.

 

my MAF was just about dead. No codes and they are not konwn for throwing codes. Go get your new MAF and enjoy the VQ like you are suppose to!

 

Are you guys failing to read this part of his post?!

 

I was talking to panda who asked if it throws a code! did you miss that part?

 

thx for the response merovi...how do i go about getting it replaced from the dealership..if my car is still under warranty but its not throwing MAF code?

Damn dude...why you trippin..hes just answering my question

 

If your under warrenty I have no idea because they will just tell you its fine(probobly). But honestly you drive a 2k1 which means its only like $90-100. If you call Dave B and don't mind waiting for shipping it will be around $80 maybe, don't quote me. And the install is simple. Just need to remove the box like your putting an intake in and swap it out. Hopefully someone who has had it replaced under warrenty will chime in with a way.

 

My bad.

Ditto, sorry. Also, if it isn't throwing a code the dealer may still replace it. I had mine replaced under an extended warranty and I was just experiencing our typical bad MAF symptoms, no codes.

GL

 

yeah...i mean 80* bucks approximatley isnt too bad...my question is...if it under warranty....why buy one if i can just get it replaced?....if there is even a way to replace it when the cel isnt even on.

 

maybe have them drive it to experience it for themselves. When I was having MAF problems I could really only tell when I was driving. You could feel the accel just give up in the sterring wheel and the pedal, my passengers never really noticed unless I really made them pay attention. My buddy drove it once and I forgot to warn him about it and he was like dude, your car blows like that. So i changed it out and boy was I amazed. I had never driven it with a working MAF.

 

are there any other symptoms that i should look for with a f'd up MAF?...gas is going like crazy..low end is sucking b@lls...im just tired of it to tell you the truth..my car has warranty for 70,000 miles or 7 years...and im at 36,000 right now...im gonan go down to autozon and get the codes checked soon enough.

 

alright this is a list of all my symptoms:

Gas wasn't great, but that didn't give it away.

I have a 5spd so it might be diff but when i would WOT, the RPMS would fly up to 3400-3500 and then the power would just fall flat and it would feel like I was driving a metro.

Last but not lesat, winter came around and when it got colder out, i could be driving and put the car in neutral and the RPMs would drop to like 200 and then come back up to 600. A few times I would put it in neutral comming to a light and the RPMs would drop so low the car would stall out and I would have to start it. That was the kicker that made me change it right away. My car stalled when getting off an expressway and the wheel locked. Luckily I started it back up before I came to the bend.

since the change, It pulls extremely hard like it is suppose to. Instead of struggling to chirp my tires in 1st I struggle not to spin them completely through the gear. I constantly get 22 mpg or so at about 85/15 city/highway
and about 27 with mostly highway. I highly recommend changing it. Thought I saw one in the FS section for a 2k1. brand new and $50!

 

I am on the 3rd MAF. Not always will you get an SES for a bad MAF. In my experience, crappy gas mileage and some hesitation....

 

I didnt get any code whatsoever. All I had were simple symptoms that looked like a slipping trans. But after breaking the MAF while trying to remove it from the airbox, I had no choice but to replace the MAF with the spare I had.

 

This is for everybody. To make sure that you really have a MAF failure, theres a test that I discovered that I forgot to mention. See there are symptoms when it begins to go bad. The best way to find out is to increase the airflow passing through the MAF.
And how do you do this? Simply do a GAB mod and believe me the symptoms will worsen when the MAF determines it cant handle that much airflow. Your car will accelerate very slowly. Then it will feel like your motor is choking on gas. Then a
freakin slow grandma will pass you with no sweat LOL

Then you could conclude you need to replace your MAF

Ignore this if you just want to be patient for a code to come out. Good luck waiting forever

 

Unplug your maf, and drive until the ses light comes on. Plug the sensor back in and go to the dealer with a code set. It's ok if the fault code is not active.
It will probably work

 

So did you change your tranny fluid and put in your new MAF at the same time?
Im having the same thing w/ the whole shifting problem. How much does the MAF cost at a regular stealership?

 

It costs $433 at the stealership. But you can get it for like $90 shipped on the .org. Just look for a member named DaveB. He could help you out. I did a trans flush then filled it up with mobil trans fluid which i heard was the best. Then I replaced my MAF. Voila all my problems were gone.

 

you're right..i mean the code wil be recorded correct int he ecu?...so when they run diagnostics and check for codes it will appear ashaving malfunctioned. GENIUS...i to that lol..thanks

 

I believe its the 2k2-2k3 MAF that costs that much. Us 1st gen 5th genners don't have to worry about that price.