3.5 oil consumption possible solution:
#1
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3.5 oil consumption possible solution:
Please read the response to my question in the nissan help forum:
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forum/viewto...ecfa3601824e7b
I personally don't think that a leaky valve cover can cause a quart a fill-up to dissapear, but what if...
Opinions please!
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forum/viewto...ecfa3601824e7b
I personally don't think that a leaky valve cover can cause a quart a fill-up to dissapear, but what if...
Opinions please!
#2
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no way dude
pcv valva has nothing to do with you loosing that much oil. yes there is blowby and that is why people put a catch can but you are not going to loose that amount of oil. the valve covers sit on the heads and there is a gasket between them. the rear cover just has the pcv valve comming out of it. and if the gasket was leaking your right side of the engine would be covered in oil.
pcv valva has nothing to do with you loosing that much oil. yes there is blowby and that is why people put a catch can but you are not going to loose that amount of oil. the valve covers sit on the heads and there is a gasket between them. the rear cover just has the pcv valve comming out of it. and if the gasket was leaking your right side of the engine would be covered in oil.
#3
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Originally Posted by vsamoylov
no way dude
pcv valva has nothing to do with you loosing that much oil. yes there is blowby and that is why people put a catch can but you are not going to loose that amount of oil. the valve covers sit on the heads and there is a gasket between them. the rear cover just has the pcv valve comming out of it. and if the gasket was leaking your right side of the engine would be covered in oil.
pcv valva has nothing to do with you loosing that much oil. yes there is blowby and that is why people put a catch can but you are not going to loose that amount of oil. the valve covers sit on the heads and there is a gasket between them. the rear cover just has the pcv valve comming out of it. and if the gasket was leaking your right side of the engine would be covered in oil.
#4
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try the blowby filter method. go to the store and get a fram P4. put it in line with your pcv line and if it get full of oil really fast then maybe hes right. if it doesnt then hes obviously wrong. then you can leave in it because its good for the engine anyway. (the filter that is)
#8
O.k
Originally Posted by GBAUER
3.5 oil consumption possible solution:
Opinions please!
Opinions please!
#10
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thats BS. my 3.5 burns no oil. i changed my oil, checked it all the time, and when i went to change it 3months later it was at the same place it started, right on the full mark. why would he want a weak 3.0 if he can get a beefy 3.5 and fix the oil consumption?
#11
Hasn't Tilley so far offered the best explanation of why this is happening? He saw on one of his VQ35s that the piston rings have all the gaps lined up instead of being offset. See the 4th diagram on EM-76 of the FSM for what it should look like.
#12
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Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Hasn't Tilley so far offered the best explanation of why this is happening? He saw on one of his VQ35s that the piston rings have all the gaps lined up instead of being offset. See the 4th diagram on EM-76 of the FSM for what it should look like.
#13
Originally Posted by Hoooper
try the blowby filter method. go to the store and get a fram P4. put it in line with your pcv line and if it get full of oil really fast then maybe hes right. if it doesnt then hes obviously wrong. then you can leave in it because its good for the engine anyway. (the filter that is)
#14
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OOOOOPS, i meant fram G3, here ya go http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=417081
i did it for mine and of course caught a little oil, noticed more oil was going through when racing then just driving normal. maybe you need to stay off the gas a little more.
i did it for mine and of course caught a little oil, noticed more oil was going through when racing then just driving normal. maybe you need to stay off the gas a little more.
#15
Acutally the rings are too loose causing the oil to be burned by the engine. The 02-up VK45DE in the Infiniti's is also know to burn oil. Some further testing by a REALLY good Infiniti tech who works in a special facility in Georgia know as T3, has proved that the rings are the culprit of the VK45DE V8 burning oil. It would not supprise me at all if cheap azz Nissan did the same identical thing to the VQ35.
My 141K mile VQ30 doesn't burn a drop of oil if that matters, and makes more power than most of the 3.5Ls on this forum so keep your 3.0L insults to yourself or come out and run my old relic for some $$$.
My 141K mile VQ30 doesn't burn a drop of oil if that matters, and makes more power than most of the 3.5Ls on this forum so keep your 3.0L insults to yourself or come out and run my old relic for some $$$.
#16
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Hasn't Tilley so far offered the best explanation of why this is happening? He saw on one of his VQ35s that the piston rings have all the gaps lined up instead of being offset. See the 4th diagram on EM-76 of the FSM for what it should look like.
If the rings where not staggered and the gaps where lined up the engine would burn oil at a VERY alarming rate. Imagine how many times the piston travels up and down within 1K miles worth of driving. Gaps between the rings are bout 1/8" to almost 1/4" big depending on the engine. If all 3 rings where to be lined up perfectly straight, the engine would make very little power, have tons of blow by and have very little compression. I have never seen or heard of such poor assembly even from the worst car companies in the world. I dont belive in this a bit.
Rings are too loose causing too much oil to get by the oil controll ring on the pistons and it seems to travel up to the top compression ring where the combustion of the A/F burns off the oil.
#18
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Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
Gaps between the rings are bout 1/8" to almost 1/4" big depending on the engine.
#19
I don't need a SC or any kinda power adder... see me when you have 200K miles on the odo and we will talk- give me bout 14 months and I will be at 200K. At the same time your 255CrankHP will most likely be around 150HP from all the blow by due to worn out piston rings.
Dude your Auto 3.5L makes less power than my 3.0L 5spd Max GXE on OEM wheels does stock vs stock, learn something bout cars before you say stupid BS like this, most of all dont be so self centered bout the 3.5L, the FASTEST Maximas on this forum are 3.0Ls... does that ring a bell ?
Dude your Auto 3.5L makes less power than my 3.0L 5spd Max GXE on OEM wheels does stock vs stock, learn something bout cars before you say stupid BS like this, most of all dont be so self centered bout the 3.5L, the FASTEST Maximas on this forum are 3.0Ls... does that ring a bell ?
#21
Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
I don't need a SC or any kinda power adder... see me when you have 200K miles on the odo and we will talk- give me bout 14 months and I will be at 200K. At the same time your 255CrankHP will most likely be around 150HP from all the blow by due to worn out piston rings.
Dude your Auto 3.5L makes less power than my 3.0L 5spd Max GXE on OEM wheels does stock vs stock, learn something bout cars before you say stupid BS like this, most of all dont be so self centered bout the 3.5L, the FASTEST Maximas on this forum are 3.0Ls... does that ring a bell ?
Dude your Auto 3.5L makes less power than my 3.0L 5spd Max GXE on OEM wheels does stock vs stock, learn something bout cars before you say stupid BS like this, most of all dont be so self centered bout the 3.5L, the FASTEST Maximas on this forum are 3.0Ls... does that ring a bell ?
#22
Originally Posted by Hoooper
actually, ring gap formula (for a cold engine) is .003 X Bore plus up to but no more than .01 inches. if the ring gap is 1/4 inch, theres an issue there. also, most engines when warm have rings that are almost touching. an engine warms up and the rings expand, thats why there is a gap when cold, but once warm the ring gap goes to almost nothing.
#24
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Originally Posted by BlackBIRDVQ
Formulas dont build engines do they ? I have built PLENTY of them myself, and my last SR20 motor- which made more power than the most powerfull Maxima ever did..... had ring clearance of approx 2.8mm if I remember correctly. Given the amount of revolutions the piston goes up and down durring its life time, I don't doubt at all that if the rings where LINED UP the engine would burn about 1QT every few hundred miles. It would deplete itself from its 4QT crankcase capacity in less than 1500 miles I bet, clogging the cats at the same time from all the oil being burned in the engine itself.
#25
I am done withi this topic... I said I BUILT a engine. When I build my engines I build them with TIGHT tolerances. 4mm is bout 1/8", when you grow up talk to me bout engines, I don't need you to educate me with formulas etc. Build something other than your parents car and then we can talk.
#30
Lemme see your dyno sheet, most AUTO 3.5Ls don't dyno over 200WHP, where there are a few of us lucky DE-K owners with STEEL 15" wheels who put down between 195-199WHP bone stock. It just so happens that my car makes a bit more than 230WHP. I don't open my hood when I run, nor do I prove my power with dynos etc... I prove it with my ricey SE-R badge on the trunk lid- something your AUTO would be watching given a 40MPH roll on run.
EDIT- my VH45DE vs your run of the mill small block... DOHC 32V fully built, runing this Saturday. Camera phone p3wns picture.
EDIT- my VH45DE vs your run of the mill small block... DOHC 32V fully built, runing this Saturday. Camera phone p3wns picture.
#33
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http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451198
i think that stock auto dyno is mentioned in there somewhere. also my Mustang dyno #'s are in there.
o yeh, and for your 40mph roll, thats top of first gear for me...~220hp or something? how many 3.0l ran faster than 14.7 stock?
i think that stock auto dyno is mentioned in there somewhere. also my Mustang dyno #'s are in there.
o yeh, and for your 40mph roll, thats top of first gear for me...~220hp or something? how many 3.0l ran faster than 14.7 stock?
#34
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerofile/...119061821a.jpg
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerofile/...0119061821.jpg
Sorry sometimes our Q45.org doesn't get along with Maxima.org, just click on the bloody link !
EDIT = http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=148134&page=2 scroll down.
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerofile/...0119061821.jpg
Sorry sometimes our Q45.org doesn't get along with Maxima.org, just click on the bloody link !
EDIT = http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread?id=148134&page=2 scroll down.
#37
Originally Posted by Hoooper
http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451198
i think that stock auto dyno is mentioned in there somewhere. also my Mustang dyno #'s are in there.
o yeh, and for your 40mph roll, thats top of first gear for me...~220hp or something? how many 3.0l ran faster than 14.7 stock?
i think that stock auto dyno is mentioned in there somewhere. also my Mustang dyno #'s are in there.
o yeh, and for your 40mph roll, thats top of first gear for me...~220hp or something? how many 3.0l ran faster than 14.7 stock?
Mustang dyno is as usefull in this tread as you contributing to it. 6spd Maximas dyno in the 210-215 range, automatics are in the 195-200 range.
I will ignore your posts.
#39
Originally Posted by Hoooper
http://www.forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=451198
i think that stock auto dyno is mentioned in there somewhere. also my Mustang dyno #'s are in there.
o yeh, and for your 40mph roll, thats top of first gear for me...~220hp or something? how many 3.0l ran faster than 14.7 stock?
i think that stock auto dyno is mentioned in there somewhere. also my Mustang dyno #'s are in there.
o yeh, and for your 40mph roll, thats top of first gear for me...~220hp or something? how many 3.0l ran faster than 14.7 stock?