I know this is gonna sound really newbish, maybe cause i am, but I wanna get my first upgrade and i cant decide between the berk intake or UDP. I want something that will help the car whether it be performance or efficiency, not goin for looks neccesarilly. I have researched both and felt I would ask the org

 

y-pipe = first mod. Instant 15hp.

 

suspension

 

I knowww I would definately get a y-pipe but aren't they like 300-400$? I don't have that kinda cash right NOW, but maybe it would be smarter to save for it. Definately worth saving and getting that probably right? Over spending 150$ on one of a UDP or intake. And on Edwards note, how come everyone emphisizes suspension, I can drive really tight already, have no need for the "lowered" look. And it doesn't make you faster.

 

Trust me suspension makes the max feel like a completely different car. Lower center of gravity, reduced body roll, all the good stuff. My warpspeed y-pipe was 160 shipped brand new. Don't know if its different for 5th gens.

EDIT: Redlinemax.com has it for $175 right now.

 

well then id DEFINATELY get that. I have pure stock would it still help me that much? Whats the difference between aluminum and stainless Steel? besides there a different metal. I mean it wouldnt change performance right?

PS. If i had a ypipe done, what would I have to do for the o2 sensor as far as "simulating" do you HAVE to do that cause I noticed that some like the warpspeed have a O2 port in them already so it just a matter of losing the error light?

 

first, its not aluminum its alumnized steel. which means that it will act just like your current exhaust pipes. stainless just means it looks prettier and wont rust.
second, im not completely sure about your car, but my y-pipe came with O2 sensor bungs and i just hooked it up to there. no CEL because of that as long as you put the O2 back in

 

ya the ones I am looking at have the things for the sensor but i read in the o2 sim section that getting rid of the pre-cat causes the computer to read it as a malfunction. (do you think spending an extra 150 is worth it for the stainless steel?)

 

Neither will give you any significant gains performance or efficiency wise if they are the only mods you have but I guess if you're gonna get all the bolt-ons eventually, you'll get em at some point. Some people have argued that intakes give better fuel efficiency, but so far that has been unfounded. Save your money for a y-pipe or a suspension/handling upgrade like the RSB & FSTB combo.

You can get a Progress RSB here for $144 shipped (I have one and I love it, as do many others):

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=450276

You can also easily find a FSTB on eBay for anywhere from 25-40 bucks shipped .

 

I took my Y-pipe off and regained my torque. It's been on and off several times and I have to say that the car drives better without it. It was good on the freeway and at high speeds but around town it was terrible.

 

Brakes. You'll thank yourself a million times over.

 

what like rotors or the whole kit? Cause I dont have a grand to shell out, something around 200-300

 

for 200-300, I'd get a FSTB, Y-pipe, and do the ghetto air box. Ghetto air-box is free (see stickies), and added to the y-pipe will give you good gains (the engine's gotta suck as well as it blows....). The FSTB will tighten the front up around the corners for a cheap add to help the suspension. If you still have cash left over (you should have $100 or so), get maxspeed springs. You might find a used set in the FS section that can save a couple of bucks and it'll really make the whole car feel better. Then I'd save up for a set of new shocks and the RSB to complete the suspension. If you don't decide to get springs and you would rather add power, get your timing advanced to 17 degrees. It should cost around 80-100 bux and should add total (Y-pipe + timing + GAB) around 20 hp or so. You'll definitly feel it, especially if you do it all in a weekend! BTW: you can order the FSTB and Y-pipe both from Redlinemax.com at the same time. Might be easier than doing e-gay. (definitly get the FSTB. Best 35 you'll ever spend on your car!)

 

I know what timing is, but what would it do, both pros and cons to this engine? And can you help me find the fstb from redlinemax haha sorry.

 

The pro is that the engine burns the fuel more effiently and gives more power and better throttle response. The con is that you have to use premium fuel or else the engine will knock.

As far as the FSTB, just call Corey at Redline on Monday when you order your Y-pipe. He can help you out.

 

I say if you plan to make your car any faster then it is now at anytime. Start working on tighting your suspension first.

 

i use 89 fuel now i think, its 87 89 and 91 here would that be alright with 17deg.? Gbauer, you mentioned the price, thats if I just brought it into any shop? How come it's so high?

 

If your timing is advanced to 17 degs, 91 is probably the minimum octane rating you can run without knocking.

 

Only a dealership can do it. That's why it's so high. You can only use 91 safely when it's done also.

 

why would knocking be so bad? It's not just an annoyance to the ear?

 

Annoying to the ear when your mechanic tells you that you need another engine. Knocking is detonation and that my friend is really bad for you engine.

 

Comon dude I'm more noob than u and i know that having max's means you wanna stay as far away from knocking as possible. Our cars are notorious for having ignition coil problems and throwing codes. In general its not only bad for the engine but results in a loss of power.

 

Correct!! In other words...knocking is ignition when the piston is still going up in the cylinder...the ''explosion'' is trying to push down the piston while he's still going up....real bad........

 

You'll Never Forget Your First Part.

 

Doesn't a Y-pipe cost about 200? And if I'm not mistaking, a Y-pipe with an intake is a good first step. Soon I hope to be making my decition on which Y-pipe and intake I wish to choose.

Did you ever think about the 17 degree timing change?

 

Do GAB, and 17* then save the rest for headers

You'll thank me later

 

to be honest... i'll go with wat they say about suspension... i jus recently install the illuminas and h&r's all around and the car feels like its GLUED to the car... work around the suspension first and then head over to the power... its probably the best investment i've made on my car by far as of now...

 

did you bother to read the rest of the thread or did you just stop after the first post?

 

suspension should be the first priority before adding any power. period.

it's not for "looks" it is for handling. No matter what you might "think," a stock maxima handles like crap....springs, struts, RSB, LTB first....then start thinking about exhaust and engine.

intakes are a waste of money, in my "new" opinion. That's why I sold mine months ago and went back to stock air box with OSCAI. An intake alone will give you more sound to the engine, but will also reduce your low-end power and response. If you just want the noise, go with a GAB.

 

im ghetto airboxed.... will actually with the so called "hacked" air filter holder... but def. the suspension is a big need... my gle felt like a BOAT and kept rocking side to side and now its jus stiff on on the road

 

my stock SE suspension wasn't that bad in the corners, especially after I added the FSTB. The new springs really didn't make that much of a difference IMO. However, I'm sure the RSB in my garage will...

 

you and your FSTB. Once you ahve a LTB, springs, and RSB the FSTB makes no difference one way or the other. I've taken mine off a few times and noticed NO change whatsoever....

suspension improvement cannot be had with one component alone....it needs to be addressed in the context of spring rate, suspension flex reduction, and dampening as a single aspect (combination of several components). One or two suspension mods by themselves will not a great handler make

 

Headers were my first major mod, and I still do not regret it.

 

I actually am looking to go in the direction of suspension but still like looking at y-pipes which is why I (being a newb) ask this.. Do I HAVE to sim the o2 sensor if I put in an aftermarket pipe?

 

As far as I know, no one with an aftermarket y-pipe has needed an O2 sim.

 

does anyone know if advanced 17 degree timming will void waranty??

 

No. It is done at the dealership by Nissan techs.

 

Definatley suspension...... Going fast doesn't mean crap unless you can turn and stop. Stock suspension can be really scary at really high speeds.

 

is there much of a difference between 16 degree timing and 17 degree timing advance?...

which is better??...i see some people have one or the other...

does anyone know the original timing degrees?

 

15 degrees is stock.