ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

I need help guys. In the process of doing metal maximas led map light install, the positive and negative leads came in contact and there was a small spark. Now my my power door locks, windows, door lights and dome light doesn't work, also the open door and trunk lights are on as if they are open. The car starts up fine, the radio, turn signal and everything else appears to work fine. Did I blow a fuse and do you happen to know what fuse I blew based on the symptoms I stated above? Could it be something worse? Thanks for anyones help.

MAXRB8

iTrader: (19)

When I changed my dome light I blew the fuse, didn't try the PDL's and PW's but the open door light and trunk thing seems weird might be a larger under the hood fuse, but I only blew a 10 amp fuse in the "inside panel" drivers side of steering column remove small fuse panel the fuse should be the 2nd one in from the drivers side, middle row, hope that's it , good luck

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

Thanks I'll try that tomorrow. Anybody else with suggestions?

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you shorted something..
Possibly your smart entrance control unit or a wire leading to it...


Good Luck

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

I've never heard of this before until now. ??

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Think of it this way. You open the door.. The NC (Normally closed) circuit opens..The unit detects that the circuit isn't closed and sends power to the lights....
You blew a fuse and for some odd reason you have power going to the lights...

I could be wrong, but thinking in electrical theory you would have to have power and ground going to/from the lights...
For some reason you have power going where it's not suppossed to..
Sounds like a short to me, but I could be wrong.

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

Short as in blown fuse? I just realized my remote/alarm doesn't work either. I can't open the doors,trunk, or set my alarm with it.

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I don't have access to or know anything about alarm systems, except that that are obviously tied into the dome/trunk lights, etc...Can't help ya out.
I would say though that this may be part of the problem and a quick call to whoever installed your alarm may be a quick resolution to your problem.
When I say short I mean low resistance fault...

Example of a "open" is a blown fuse....Which means the power should be going thru the fuse, but isn't because it's blown..(This is known as a High resistance fault because there is to much of a resistance to allow any voltage to the other side----in the case of a blown fuse you would have infinate resistance)

Example of a "short" is when the wire from say your dash lights to your fuse box heats up and melts to your memory wire going to your radio..All of a sudden you have power going to your dash lights even when you car is off, because the wire is "shorted" to your clock/memory wire to your radio..
Make sence???

Like I said though, didn't realize you had an alarm...I can offer absolutely no help. to your problem.

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

No problem man, you are just trying to help. It's not an aftermarket alarm, its the OEM alarm. I'll replace the fuse tomorrow, call daveb and my local Nissan to see if they can offer any assistance.

Max_Vader_2K

Good luck, I have the same "exact" problem with my car right now, and if you come up with a solution please let me know. The only solution I have is I need to get a new Smart Entrance control unit - SECU and parts a labor will be near $400.00.

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

How did yours happen? How much does the SECU cost?

Max_Vader_2K

Mine just stop working all of sudden while driving. but I think it shorted something with the rear defrost too because its not working.

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

I was told to replace the #13 fuse and that should fix the problem. I'm going to purchase one from pepboys later. I'll post if it works.

Max_Vader_2K

I have checked every fuse in the car and under the hood and all of them were perfect. If it works for you please let me know.

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

Just did it, the #13 fuse was completely blown. I replaced it with a new one and everything works perfect now. The fuse had burnt marks in it. While I was at it, I bought a fuse tester and a bunch of 10A - 30A fuses just to be on the safe side just in case of any future problems.

MAXRB8

iTrader: (19)

Where was the #13 located? What Amperage was it?

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

It's 10 amps, you will need the real small ones. It's located in the fuse box below your steering wheel but above the hood opener. The fuses are numbered, its the second one from the drivers side in the middle row. Hope that helps.

MAXRB8

iTrader: (19)

LOL That's the exact one I told you to check in the beginning POST #2 see!!!!!!!!!!!!:

YOU'RE WELCOME!

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

Thanks again.

zheka

i have a similer problem but temperature contol module lights on the bottom don't work, like the Auto, Econ, off, mode. any seggestions

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

Actually, I told him it was fuse #13 in an e-mail about an hour before you posted.

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

I don't understand whats the problem, Metal(daniel) I emailed you and told you thanks and that it worked. I also said thanks to anyones help in the first post and thank you to MaxRB8 in the 3rd post.

Max_Vader_2K

This is the strangest thing I have ever seen with my car. My number 13 fuse was empty and on the fuse pannel layout it dose not show anything is suppose to go there. So I said WTH and put a 10A fuse in its place, POOF, all lights back on Keyless entry works, door locks and automatic windows after the key is turned off works. I could not belive this. So a word to all who have this same problem would be to check # 13 fuse and if in my case if its not there put one in and slolve the problem.

ICULookN

iTrader: (3)

Happy everything is working for you.