no cel codes and still this problem
#1
no cel codes and still this problem
hello everybody, i have a small problem that is puzzling, i have no cel codes and no check engline light on. my maxima is running great with good power. but if i am driving and lets say i stop to buy something and come back to my car within a minute or so, when i turn the key to start it it starts, but then the idle drops and it dies out. if i give it gas before it dies out it wont die out and will idle fine. this does not happen when the engine is cold probably because its running rich. this only happens when it is hot and it has been running, does anybody know what could be wrong with it. thanks.
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#5
Originally Posted by upstatemax
I would seafoam your intake, run BG44K through the fuel system, change the plugs (they are well past due).
IF you want to, do a run of auto-rx to clean out the engine really well.
IF you want to, do a run of auto-rx to clean out the engine really well.
#6
I had a similar issue on my 2k2 last year. When the engine was cold, it would startup fine, but when the engine was hot, at startup it wouldn't keep an idle. I took it in and my service manager gave me a new MAF and he said he also adjusted the idle. Not exactly sure what he did, but now the engine starts up perfectly.
#7
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Originally Posted by vinny
sorry upstate, what do you mean by seafoam the intake. as for the plugs, the stealership said they were good for a hundred thousand miles. why change now
The 100,000 mile thing is BS, I changed mine at 58,000 and they were toast. Car ran a million times better. As for the seafoam, it is a cleaner you can get at almost any auto store and read through the fluids forum to find out how to use it through your brake booster line.
#8
nathan, mine can keep an idle, i just have to give it gas or it will die(when warm), once i have done this it does not die anymore, upstate what plugs did you use in your maxima, when you replaced. i want some that will last, and preferably spark hotter for a little more horsepower, any suggestions.
#9
Originally Posted by upstatemax
The 100,000 mile thing is BS, I changed mine at 58,000 and they were toast. Car ran a million times better. As for the seafoam, it is a cleaner you can get at almost any auto store and read through the fluids forum to find out how to use it through your brake booster line.
#10
Originally Posted by vinny
nathan, mine can keep an idle, i just have to give it gas or it will die(when warm), once i have done this it does not die anymore, upstate what plugs did you use in your maxima, when you replaced. i want some that will last, and preferably spark hotter for a little more horsepower, any suggestions.
Also, just get stock plugs. Unless you do serious non-NA mods to your car you will see no difference in power due to different plugs.
#11
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There is also a thread about plugs let me see if I can dig it up.
Edit: here is the link; http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ighlight=plugs
#12
I now have 51000 on my 03 and wanna change my plugs but I don't wanna be bother with those back 3 plugs and the dealer is outragous. Why oh why couldnt they make it easy like my old Protege.
#13
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Originally Posted by boondoxmax
I now have 51000 on my 03 and wanna change my plugs but I don't wanna be bother with those back 3 plugs and the dealer is outragous. Why oh why couldnt they make it easy like my old Protege.
The rears are not that bad, just takes a bit more patience.
#15
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Originally Posted by vinny
not trying to keep harping on or anything, but why does the stealership guarantee the plugs for one hundred thousand miles if they wear out before that. doesn't make sense
They "can" last that long, if you drive like your grandma and performance will be lost. If you want to keep it running in tip top shape, change them well before that.
#16
Spark plug (Platinum-tipped type)
Use standard type spark plug for normal condition.
The hot type spark plug is suitable when fouling may occur with the standard type spark plug such as:
frequent engine starts
low ambient temperatures
The cold type spark plug is suitable when spark knock may occur with the standard type spark plug such as:
extended highway driving
frequent high engine revolution Gap (Nominal): 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
Tightening Torque: 20 - 29 Nm (2.0 - 3.0 kg.m, 14 - 22 ft.lb)
from alldata
Also hotter spark = quicker burn time in combustion chamber = retarding of the timing.
colder spark = longer burn time = more advanced timing.
Stock engine....Don't fu*k around with it, stay with stock
NGK Double Platinum Tipped
Standard Type: PFR5G-11
Use standard type spark plug for normal condition.
The hot type spark plug is suitable when fouling may occur with the standard type spark plug such as:
frequent engine starts
low ambient temperatures
The cold type spark plug is suitable when spark knock may occur with the standard type spark plug such as:
extended highway driving
frequent high engine revolution Gap (Nominal): 1.1 mm (0.043 in)
Tightening Torque: 20 - 29 Nm (2.0 - 3.0 kg.m, 14 - 22 ft.lb)
from alldata
Also hotter spark = quicker burn time in combustion chamber = retarding of the timing.
colder spark = longer burn time = more advanced timing.
Stock engine....Don't fu*k around with it, stay with stock
NGK Double Platinum Tipped
Standard Type: PFR5G-11
#17
so i guess i should just go to the dealership and ask for factory plugs then. what should i expect to pay for six. do i need to regap the factory plugs or will they be ok. the dealership is so expensive but factory is factory.
#18
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Originally Posted by vinny
so i guess i should just go to the dealership and ask for factory plugs then. what should i expect to pay for six. do i need to regap the factory plugs or will they be ok. the dealership is so expensive but factory is factory.
Here is a link that I am sure will beat the price: http://www.drivewire.com/infinitipar...sparkplug.html
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