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BEst Coilovers for the max BOSS CHENS

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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 08:44 AM
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Old Mar 12, 2006 | 10:58 AM
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I'll work on getting some test samples to cars out on the East Coast so other members can take a ride-along.

Here is a popular coilover made by Bilstein (very reputable manufacturer) for Posches and BMWs (PSS9 coilovers) - no camber plates


For ultimate performance, you can't the JIC A2 because of the monotube shocks, since it is the best design. HOWEVER, its only worth it if you want to pay $1600 and have a car that is used on the track without worrying about reliability of the shocks and coilover noises (reported by local members with the A2's).

Since most maximas are mostly street vehicles, this is in my opinion the best compromise. Steel for durability, OEM upper strut mounts for silence, a completely noise free operation, and superior oil dampeners for a comfortable ride.
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Ammi
subscribing
always wondered, why do people post that they're "subscribing?"
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 11:08 AM
  #44  
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Welded steel brackets on a HKS coilover system
http://www.autopamplona.com/ficheiros/hks-susp.jpg

Skyline coilovers by HKS - no camber plates


Good coilovers - emphasis on shocks and dampening
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 11:11 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
always wondered, why do people post that they're "subscribing?"
when you reply to a thread...it automatically subscribes you....

you can also do it without replying....its in the upper right hand corner called THREAD TOOLS
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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account approved!
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 10:00 PM
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Larrio motors, your now a sponsor!?! Awesome!
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 10:59 PM
  #48  
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Are there any disadvantages in oil filled shocks. I mean, if oil filled shocks are better than gas filled shocks, why do other coilover and shock manufacturers use gas?
Old Mar 12, 2006 | 11:55 PM
  #49  
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hey im really intrested, what are the specs and prices?
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 05:12 AM
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Interesting.
Old Mar 13, 2006 | 02:07 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by DrKlop
Are there any disadvantages in oil filled shocks. I mean, if oil filled shocks are better than gas filled shocks, why do other coilover and shock manufacturers use gas?
These dampeners are oil mixed with pressurized gas for a smooth comfortable ride. Exactly like the JIC A2 monotube struts
http://www.jic-magic.com/productsjic_susp_flta2.htm

"high pressure nitrogen gas filled monotube design with special stable viscosity index oil that will not be affected by wide temperature changes"

indecentmax: pricing is not fixed yet due to the failing value of the American dollar. As of now they are $925-$950 shipped.
Old May 14, 2006 | 05:38 PM
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Larry....yes, another question that I forgot in my pm...

since the fronts re-use the OEM upper strut mounts, would it be safe to assume that I could instead use my Stillen camber plates (which currently are in the car, replacing the same upper strut mount...?

oh, and a free bump
Old May 14, 2006 | 08:41 PM
  #53  
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Yep, stillen camber plates should work.

The top hat on the BC coilovers is machined to hold the OEM strut bearing. In theory your stillen camber plates goes right on top since it utilizes the OEM strut bearing also.
Old May 17, 2006 | 07:26 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Larrio
Here is a popular coilover made by Bilstein (very reputable manufacturer) for Posches and BMWs (PSS9 coilovers) - no camber plates
Originally Posted by Larrio
Skyline coilovers by HKS - no camber plates
Invalid comparisons. The front suspensions in those cars are not made in ways that easily facilitate camber plates, so it's not like they could have done it but chose not to.
Old May 17, 2006 | 07:43 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by DrKlop
Are there any disadvantages in oil filled shocks. I mean, if oil filled shocks are better than gas filled shocks, why do other coilover and shock manufacturers use gas?
"Gas-filled" dampers are still oil-filled, and still use oil to damp the motion of the suspension. They just use the gas to keep the oil under pressure.

It's a good technology, but it's not always better than the alternative. The trick is that the pressurized gas provides upward force, which means that the damper will be contributing to holding the car up as well as damping the motion of the suspension. That can be great because if it's done right, it can let you have good control of body motion without the use of super stiff springs. On the other hand, it also tosses a big extra variable into the suspension tuning equation, and sometimes it's just easier to have the damper and the spring do their jobs without getting in each other's way.

Ultimately it all depends on the construction of the damper, the setup of the suspension, the purpose, and the driver's preferences.
Old May 17, 2006 | 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by d00df00d
"Gas-filled" dampers are still oil-filled, and still use oil to damp the motion of the suspension. They just use the gas to keep the oil under pressure.

It's a good technology, but it's not always better than the alternative. The trick is that the pressurized gas provides upward force, which means that the damper will be contributing to holding the car up as well as damping the motion of the suspension. That can be great because if it's done right, it can let you have good control of body motion without the use of super stiff springs. On the other hand, it also tosses a big extra variable into the suspension tuning equation, and sometimes it's just easier to have the damper and the spring do their jobs without getting in each other's way.

Ultimately it all depends on the construction of the damper, the setup of the suspension, the purpose, and the driver's preferences.
Gotcha, thanks!


Larry, you got a PM. (hopefully you can see this lol)
Old May 17, 2006 | 11:02 AM
  #57  
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i'm interested also, but no funds right now
Old May 17, 2006 | 11:06 AM
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I might be interested to buy a set for my 2k1, but I'm in no rush and will hopefully sell the D2 at the end of the summer when it's time to put the max back in the garage for the winter. Keep us posted as to when the Boss Chens will be available and at what final price.

Cheers
Old May 17, 2006 | 03:53 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Larrio
Welded steel brackets on a HKS coilover system
http://www.autopamplona.com/ficheiros/hks-susp.jpg

Skyline coilovers by HKS - no camber plates


Good coilovers - emphasis on shocks and dampening
Let me 1st say that I am in no way interested in Boss Chens since I do have FLTA2s on my Maxima (that do blow shocks on occassion but oh well its just $$$ ) and to my liking the coil overs are NOT harsh, but to some people a stock SE Max is harsh, where I can crank up my JICs and never find them too harsh for my liking....

Anyways- those HKS HyperMax coilovers.... on Multi-link design suspensions like the ones found in the BCNR32-34 GT-R, Z32 300ZX, G50 Q45, P10 G20- do not use camber plates to adjust camber with. You need a upper control arm that adjusts for camber, or you can shim the stock OEM control arm for up to 1 deg of negative camber reduction.



Here is a SPL link installed that does camber adjustment on a Z32. I have the same setup on my Q45.

Only McPherson strut designed cars can use upper camber plates to controll the amount of camber.
Old May 17, 2006 | 11:35 PM
  #60  
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I think some may be confused by this thread and I should set things straight.

My goal is not to create the best coilover system in the world for the maxima nor blow out the competition by massively producing these. (I could have easily done this just by having a set produced overseas). I needed a coilover system that would:
1. be noise free and reliable
2. be comfortable
3. handle the occasional tracking expedetion

The steel construction provides reliability, the OEM strut bearing and hat provides a cheaper replacement cost and noise free operation. The rather low spring rate of 8kg f/6kg r combined with the struts makes a comfortable ride. And the adjustability of the coilovers handles my track runs.

This is not a product that I stock and I definitely don't plan to market it in terms of ads. I build these per order on my own time during weekends. It is a quality component and I have no interest making an alternative to compete with other brands of coilovers that are cheaper. With this in mind, I believe that the people that do run the BC coilovers will be satisfied with the individual attention and quality given to each set.
Old May 18, 2006 | 01:00 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Larrio Motors
I think some may be confused by this thread and I should set things straight.

My goal is not to create the best coilover system in the world for the maxima nor blow out the competition by massively producing these. (I could have easily done this just by having a set produced overseas). I needed a coilover system that would:
1. be noise free and reliable
2. be comfortable
3. handle the occasional tracking expedetion

The steel construction provides reliability, the OEM strut bearing and hat provides a cheaper replacement cost and noise free operation. The rather low spring rate of 8kg f/6kg r combined with the struts makes a comfortable ride. And the adjustability of the coilovers handles my track runs.

This is not a product that I stock and I definitely don't plan to market it in terms of ads. I build these per order on my own time during weekends. It is a quality component and I have no interest making an alternative to compete with other brands of coilovers that are cheaper. With this in mind, I believe that the people that do run the BC coilovers will be satisfied with the individual attention and quality given to each set.
How should the steel handle the street salt found in New England? Even some surface rust on the threads will make it nearly impossible to adjust.
Old May 18, 2006 | 07:37 AM
  #62  
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I can't speak for these particular coilovers, but I have had Ksports for nearly a year and about 25k miles and I've definitely had a few little stripes of surface rust in the threads (Ksports also have steel shock bodies), so my experience might be valuable. You're right, rust does make them hard to adjust. Fortunately, the solution is about as simple as some rust-eating spray, a wire brush, and maybe some brake cleaner if there's also some gunk in there. 30 seconds with that stuff made my adjustment collars turn virtually like new.
Old May 18, 2006 | 08:23 PM
  #63  
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Larry, forgot to ask you, do they have independent height adjustment? (full travel regardless of the drop)
Old May 18, 2006 | 09:13 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by sciff5
How should the steel handle the street salt found in New England? Even some surface rust on the threads will make it nearly impossible to adjust.
I didn't say that steel handles surface rust better. I said that steel was used for reliability. Aluminum is a weaker metal compared to steel.

DrKlop: Yes, it has independent height adjustment.
Old May 18, 2006 | 09:23 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Larrio Motors
I didn't say that steel handles surface rust better. I said that steel was used for reliability. Aluminum is a weaker metal compared to steel.

DrKlop: Yes, it has independent height adjustment.
Thats alright I would rather have steel, plus I dont need to adjust my ride height often if at all. I would only get coilovers for better handling anyway
Old May 19, 2006 | 06:23 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Larrio Motors
I didn't say that steel handles surface rust better. I said that steel was used for reliability. Aluminum is a weaker metal compared to steel.
You might try coating em with grease or wrapping with either plastic wrap or painters tape or similar too.
Old May 19, 2006 | 01:17 PM
  #67  
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stupid question: the springs are linear, right? (I know, I'm going crazy)
Old May 19, 2006 | 02:23 PM
  #68  
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They are linear, yes.

If you run a tender spring, you can make it progressive (depending on the spring rate of the tender spring). The helper spring is merely to take up the loose slack if you want no preload.
Old May 19, 2006 | 02:45 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Larrio Motors
They are linear, yes.

If you run a tender spring, you can make it progressive (depending on the spring rate of the tender spring). The helper spring is merely to take up the loose slack if you want no preload.
nah, I definitely don't want progressive springs. "yes" is exactly what I wanted to hear.
Old May 19, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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Its progressive in a good sense. The tender spring will provide a progressive spring rate as a cushion when the suspension unloads but goes back to linear when it compresses fully and starts back into the normal linear spring travel area.
Old May 19, 2006 | 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Larrio
Its progressive in a good sense. The tender spring will provide a progressive spring rate as a cushion when the suspension unloads but goes back to linear when it compresses fully and starts back into the normal linear spring travel area.
ya, you might be right, I might get the tender springs later as well, but first I want to try them only with the main springs.
Old May 20, 2006 | 03:11 PM
  #72  
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Larry,

Did you get my PM???

Mike
Old May 20, 2006 | 07:25 PM
  #73  
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and my pm too, i want a set.
Old May 20, 2006 | 08:11 PM
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larrio you have pm
Old May 20, 2006 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by zax 20th ae
larrio you have pm
yeah, I think you already said that on the post above

Originally Posted by zax 20th ae
and my pm too, i want a set.
Old May 21, 2006 | 06:36 AM
  #76  
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anyone in the northeast have these coilovers and can comment on the ride quality?
Old May 21, 2006 | 07:33 AM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by irish44j
yeah, I think you already said that on the post above

yea i sent him another one.
Old May 21, 2006 | 01:04 PM
  #78  
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I believe all PM's are answered. I didn't import too many sets in my first shipment so i'm having a bit of a shortage right now. Sorry for the inconvenience. I'll be getting more as the summer months roll in
Old May 21, 2006 | 01:30 PM
  #79  
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why not just buy Tein SS coilovers?
Old May 21, 2006 | 02:01 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by FriscoMaxima
why not just buy Tein SS coilovers?
I couldn't figure out which ones I should get (TEIN SS vs. Boss Chen) for a long time. The reason I stopped on Boss Chens is because the height adjustment is independent from spring collar. TEINs don't have this feature, which means that increasing the drop decreases suspension travel and also makes the car feel stiffer.



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