Well I'm dropping the bomb on my P0430 code. Here are the following parts I plan to install:

--New MAF sensor
--New 02 sensors (all four, NGK per the recommendation on this thread)
--New/used front pre-cat (found a used one for cheap, under 25K miles)


I also am replacing spark plugs all around and removed the intake plenum and cleaned. I checked my VIAS and it is OK.

Just giving my Max some TLC that it needs...hasn't had it in a while.

I'll let you know how it all goes. I should have all the parts in by this weekend. Crossing my fingers.....

 

Cool. I read about some other ones that were way cheaper than OEM but you had to do some wiring. Must've been something else.

I didn't have to jack up my car to get to the one I changed, but other ones may be harder to get to.


What does the NGK pack of 4 cost ? If it's under $200 I would just buy it and replace all 4. At least you'll know you got the right one.

 

Dude you live in Diamond Bar? I live off the 15 freeway just south of the 91. Small world!

 

If you have a P0430, just try changing the front secondary O2 first, then maybe the front primary. I see no reason to change the rear bank sensors when the code is for the front bank.

 

Yup...you want to help me with my car? HAHAHA

 

I am going to place the order for 4 new NGK sensors today when the store opens (in California). Hopefully I can get them installed on Saturday and have the car pass emissions Monday morning.

Will I need to have the ECU reset/updated?

 

I believe so. I went to Jiffy Lube and they cleared it for me for free. Autozone and other similar places aren't supposed to clear them for you.

 

I'm not sure if there's an autozone near me. If I buy the tool and clear it myself, is the result same as disconnecting the battery overnight?

 

If you want to go for emissions test, then don't disconnect the battery, but you will have to get the ODBII tool and reset codes. Apparently, there was a thread some days back which said the ECM has the history of when it was completely reset meaning battery disconnected. While emissions testing, that last reset is also used for the final cut to determine the vehicle was running code free for couple of months. Something in that order was detailed in that thread, therefore emission testing is pretty fool proof with all these checks and balances put into the ECMs.

I replaced my sensors as my emissions testing is up in Oct.

 

Updated the procedure to replace the sensors
1) Diagram of the exact locations of the sensors
2) Run the car for 5-10 minutes, it heats up the exhaust, which inturn makes the removal of the sensors easy.
3) Jacks
4) Autozone O2 sensor kit (get it for rental)
5) Start from the connector and go to the O2 sensor, to match replacement O2 sensors with the ones on the vehicle. The sensors all look the same but are different wrt lengths and end connectors, which distingishes them.
6) Zip tie the O2 wires away from exhaust manifold/hot surfaces correctly.
7) Patience since it takes close to 2 hrs to do the job. FYI, the last sensor (black wired) is tough to access.

 

I do believe that I read the thread about failing emissions due to a recently disconnected battery.

OK, then. I will buy an ODBII tool. Which one is recommended?

 

Today, on my way home from work, the SES light shut off!!!!


I drove about 15 miles at 60-65 mph and then, when I slowed down to 5 mph as I encountered traffic, the light shut off. Thereafter, I drove thre more miles at < 35 mph and parked the car. My fuel tank was also on empty at that point.

I get one free re-test on emissions ($28/test). Right now, I'm tempted to drive the car directly to the emissions station first thing in the morning?

Would it pass?


Realistically, I think the light turning off suddenly is false hope; I'd rather drive to work and back (15 miles at 60+ mph) and THEN if the light stays off, test the car the next day.

Thoughts.

ps - I just placed the order for the 02 sensors this morning.

 

check the code, it should be stored in the memory

 

I think its false hope. I had mine go off and on all the time. Those O2 sensors are on backorder right now...probably won't get them till next week.

I would drive it over to the emissions testing while its still off and see if they pass it. Wouldn't hurt....

 

Well I drove about 35 miles today on the highway and decided to use the 'free test' at the garage where it first failed.

I am happy to report that it passsssssssed!

If the light does not come back on soon, which I'm sure it will, I will return the O2 sensors. I'm looking forward to enjoying the weekend NOT installing them.

 

God isnt' that great ? You were thinking all week, "**** I gotta install those damn o2 sensors," and now you may not have to.

 

If you get the DTC for a rear down stream o2 sensor and the light goes off, it may as well be the downstream cat that needs to be replaced. If I had a choice, I think it would be easier to drop in brand new oxygen sensors than install a new downstream cat. With my 2002, I get the code P0138 when I'm on the highway and accelerate hard from 70mph. If I drive normal for 1-2 days, the light goes off. Soon as I can swing it, I'm going to drop in 4 new oxygen sensors.

 

Trust me it is a world of difference with the O2s replaced, the low end torque is amazing specially on hilly terrain. It feels like the car is brand new (except offcouse the paint and dents), I am very happy with the investment since I don't have to think about it for another 4-5 yrs.

Its like replacing the coil pack, get it done and move on!!!

 

agreed. I will replace them soon, but probably not this weekend. The irony of this situation is amazing. The light has been on for months and on the day that I oder the parts, it goes off and then stays off long enough for me to pass.. ha. The new O2 sensors, which I had shipped express, should be on my doorstep when I get home.

 

It is great.

 

I finally replace all four O2 sensors and had the code cleared. I drove 10 miles before the code came back



ahhhhhhhhh those 10 miles without the SES light were pure bliss

The car is running great though.


Would a ECU reprogram resolve this or is could it be caused by something else?

 

Hey T-bone - I have the exact same issues with my 2000. Looks like the O2 may not have been the solution. Did reprogramming help and if so where did you go and what did it cost?

 

I hope re-flashing will do it! This is my situ:


2000 @ 90,000

0430 (or maybe 0420, dont remember) for the past 5K miles


I read every thread on the org, back and forth, for the past year. Just mention athread and I'll quote it! he hehe

Anyway, I am out of warranty, so i'll have to pay for the re-flash... I have a dealer in Ct that will do it for $99.


I havent done it because I am too busy and the car actually runs normal to my understand, but it is getting closer to my emissions, so there is no avoiding this...

 

Like a year ago i had the code P0430 I took it to the dealer they said that the reflash didnt apply to my car so i need the primary cats so i said f**k it i'll keep the SES light they way its.
But i couldnt take the damn SES light and got 1 oxigen sensor the one in front of the radiator and replaced it. The code went away for about 1 year now 2 days ago a got a SES light wich is Code P0420. Dont know what to do now.

 

My problem is that I need an inspection sticker and I'm throwing a P0430 code which AutoZone is telling me is my bank 2 Cat. Knowing that there are two pre-cats and a main Cat I'm not sure which is the bank 2 cat.

This thread talks about O2 sensors and reflashing the computer when you get this code. Will that really clear a Cat code?

What does reflashing the computer mean? AutoZone told me he did it by resetting the SES light - but that to me doesn't mean reflashing the computer.

I replaced the MAF meter last year and did not reset nor reflash - could that be the problem?

Ride2kMax - why did the dealer say reflash didn't apply to your car?

The car actually performs quite nicely - getting about 27 MPG highway.

HELP!

 

P0430...based on my experience and the experiences of others in this forum that have thrown that code do the following...

Step #1: If under warranty take it to the dealer and let them deal with it. Find the TSB and print it out for them in case they are douchebags. If not under warranty procede to step #2.

Step #2: Pull code at Autozone and reset SES light (You did already). Wait to see if code pops back up.

Step #3: If code pops back up reflash ECU at the dealer. Has to be done at the dealer because they need the Consult II to do the flash. It takes about 45 minutes and will cost you about $75 if you aren't under warranty.

Step #4: If code pops back up change out O2 sensors on Bank #2 (this is on the front downside header of the engine). They are pretty easy to replace with short wiring and easy access.

Step #1: If you still have a code popping up you have two choices:

a. Replace front pre-cat. There is a chance you get this used on here or from a local junkyard. It is fairly easy to replace with the exception of the bolts may be frozen (nothing PB blaster and an impact gun can't take care of). Cost of used pre-cat anywhere from $50 up to $200. Cost of new pre-cat around $400.

b. Get an O2 simulator and wire in-line with both O2 sensors that are throwing the code. This will fool the ECU that the car emissions are working perfectly and you won't throw anymore codes. Downside is the pre-cat is still failing or has failed and if you have a dyno smog done like in cali you will fail if you don't warm the car up prior to testing. Also the potential you will have decreased MPG.



Be careful...if you are going to smog the SES light actually stores the history for a few hundred miles in the ECU. It might be wise at that point to unplug the battery, depress the brake pedal a few times to get out the last bit of juice, and let the max sit overnight. This may clear the history of the SES.

Good luck....

 

Thanks - I like the plan and appreciate the advice . . BTW I have had the code reset many times. . . it comes back after about 100 miles.

Still curious as to why the dealer told Ride2kMax that reflash did not apply to his Max.

Way out of warranty . . . 135K mile

 

Time to move onto step #3.

Because they don't know what the hell they are talking about. That's why I recommend printing out the TSB for it.

Good luck....

 

I replaced all the sensors, had the ECM flashed, and 5k miles later no light, but then again you could actually have a bad bank 2 cat.

 

The tech at nissan is a friend. He said that the reflash only applies to certain vin ##s an unfortunaly mine wasnt one of them.
He doesnt even charge me dealers price just a few 20s if anything.

 

any chance of sharing the contact info so that I could at least know if the reflash applies to my VIN?


I dont even expect the "courtesy" discount, I just dont want to go to a STEALER and have them "re-flash" ir for $99 and find out later that I already had the latest bios or whatever they call it.



I am in CT, so Bronx is right around the corner....

 

I would be curious about the VIN as well. I wonder if it has to do with the date of manufature. There seems to be a break between 5/2000 and 6/2000. Just bought four O2 sensors from NGK and will install this weekend. Next is the flash . . . if necessary (?).

 

Well, finally got a chance to change the four O2 sensors . . . after approximately 150 miles, so far so good . . . no SES light. Fingers are crossed, inspection expires Tuesday.

 

Never mind . . . after 200 miles, it's back

 

OK i did not want to open a new thread for this so bringing this back to the top.

With my ride issues all solved, I am now moving to get the emissions stuff taken care off.

Since I am in FL I dont have any issues driving with an SES on.

the code I have is the P0430. for the radiator side pre-cat.

I have some questions. Talking with DaveB he said the only way out was to get the precat replaced which was upwards of $450... if I go that route I cant buy by DLP TV this yr

Does anyone know if I use an o2 sim that it will take care of this code? I know several people talking about using it but i didnt see any follow up posts as to what the results were.

Also, on the o2 sim website it doesnt show a particular one for Nissan so I am assuming I need the universal one?

My car is a 2001 and basically has 4 sockets/sets of wires on the radiator side of the motor where all the O2 sensor connectors are. Does this mean my car is fed spec?

Any input will be most appreciated.

 

Look above and you will see a summary from foodmanry on 4/21. I just had my ECU reflashed and no light (P0430 code) . . . so far . . . it's only been a couple hundred miles. I did not have the ECU reflashed after replacing the MAF meter. Hopefully this will work.

Who is DaveB and how does one get in touch with him?

 

O2 sim will just alleviate the SES light. The actual emissions issue is not "solved" by the O2 sim. If you are just worried about the SES light and not about emissions then this will work fine for you. I'm not too experienced in the wiring on O2 simulators, but if you do a search o here you will find plenty of information. There may even be a how-to for it.

Your car is cali-spec.

 

Thanks

I posted to this thread sometime back.

Being in FL with no emissions checks, all I really wanted to do was get rid of the light.

I used a single spark plug non-fouler and that has worked well.

I'm just happy its a light and not oil burning like the VQ35s LOL. 142K and going strong.

 

Well, 275 miles after the ECU reflash . . . SES (P0430). Looks like neither the O2s nor the reflash worked. On to the precat!

 

I'm going to the dealer today for this. I know i know...I've got some extra cash and just want to find out exactly if i need a reflash, an O2, or a precat. I work at autozone..sometimes i'll pull a 420 code, then the light will go off for a few days, then i'll pull a 430 code. So no idea. hoping for the best..