I installed mine a few weeks ago and it started to catch oil immediately. The only problem that I had was the fact that the hose was getting pretty warm and showing signs of collapsing (flattening out) at the very slight bends I had in the hose. When I pinched the flattened hose to make it circular again,the vaccume pressure would produce a whinning sound. I eventually took mine off before I went on a long roadtrip. I'd like to reinstall it, but dont want to be caught on the interstate with a collapsed hose. It really suprised me to see that the hose had flattened considering it is some strong chit, but once its warmed up, its loses a lot of its strength. I'd like to get my hands on longer lengths of the stock black hose.

 

Same thing with my hose it started to flatten out. So for now its back to not catching oil untill I get my hands on some fuel hoses.

 

I just picked up the parts to do this.

Purchased the filter and the 3/8" to 1/4" barb connectors at Home Depot for $16. Purchased 4' of 3/8" I.D. black rubber fuel line hose and mini OEM replacement fuel injector hose clamps for $7.

Less than $24 total.

The fuel line hose should hold up to vacuum, oil, and heat. The clamps are cosmetically more appealing than standard hose clamps

 

You can get some stock size hose at AutoZone very cheaply. I bought 2 feet of it not long ago. Just take in the hose (or pull it off in the parking lot), take it in and they can cut you whatever length you want.

 

I am still confused of why this mod is so important. Forgive my ignorance, but all this does is keep a small amount of oil from gettin to the manifold and keeps our octane up? Anybody feel their car improve or faster? Or is this basicly a keep it clean and runnin good mod?

 

At higher RPM's or even normally, the oil will tend to mist from all the reciprocating parts, and the PCV valve relieves this pressure. Unfortunately, the oil goes right out the PCV valve up some hosing and into the inake manifold. We all know that oil does not burn efficiently as gas, in fact it burns real slowly, thus decreasing efficiency. The mod splices that hose, and puts a filter in there to take out the gunk before it reaches the intake manifold.

 

you sir, are correct....this intercepts the oil before it hits the intake manifold....when oil enters the intake manifold and through the combustion chamber, it mixes with fuel...when you mix those two, you get reduced octane...which can lead to pinging during hot summer days

 

Steven88, what was your old setup for ur exhaust where you have fire shooting out?

 

cattman headers, budget test pipe, and cattman exhaust

 

THREAD JACKER....GET OFF MY THREAD IF YOU HAVE NO QUESTIONS FOR THE CATCH CAN......not trying to be rude but i dont need non-sense talk on here. if you want to ask him a question ask him through a PM not through a thread with a useless question. thank you

 

blank........

 

is the PCV valve in the same place for 3.0 or would you recommend on only doing this to 3.5

 

this set up is for the 3.5 and i think the set up for the 3.0 is different, if you want to do the catch can you should look for irish's catch can how-to

 

does it really make a difference on the the 3.0's i know it makes the world of differences on the 3.5

 

im not sure, you would have to ask someone that has one on a 3.0 cause i dont know much about the 3.0 and the catch can

 

wheres the relocation sir?

 

this is located next to my fuze box and coolant container

 

its in the picture?

 

i dont think grant is that smart enough to look at the pic and guess where it is

 

Ok the hose problem is fixed. What about the filter? Since the Husky filters aren't made for this purpose, what is the alternative? Just replace the filter every year or get a metal can?

 

It looks like beside changing the hose type, you also ran much longer hoses and a different route. Have you noticed any difference in engine performance between the two different lengths? Do you have a recommendation? Thanks.

 

The Husky filter has a replacement metal bowl, but then you can't see how much oil is in there. The phone number to order the metal bowl is in the manual insert in the package.

Even the fuel line hose collapsed after sometime. I put in transmission hose. It has thicker wall and seems to be stronger (than the fuel hose). I guess fuel injection hose would be the best but expensive.

 

woah there, bringing a thread back from the dead

 

Better than starting a new one...

 

If i got a catch can kit off ebay or whatever, should i get the stiffer/stronger hoses like some fuel hose to use instead or would the ones it comes with be ok? Also, i saw some people not reconnecting the hose to the intake manifold and just putting a filter after the catch can on the outbound side and one also on the port to the IM. could i do this and why?
Thanks

 

I've never heard of this mod before. How much does it increase performance and gas mileage by, noticeably? It seems easy enough and cheap enough...

 

Minimal to any performance gains, or increase in mpg.

This is a maintenance mod only. Keeps oil out of your intake and out of your air/fuel mixture.

Not all engine mods are perfromance related.

 

But isn't the car designed to handle some oil in the intake? Otherwise, why didn't it come with a a filter from the factory? Will this mod help the engine in the longrun?

 

Well since this original threat is getting kind of old is there a final verdict on what kind of hose to use and filter?

 

The hose that you should use is a braided fuel line hose and for the filter. I havn't had any problems with it.

 

I'm thinking of installing one on my 2k Max and I've read a lot here.
It seems the ones made from air compressor filters are quite good but they're small and will get filled up quickly.
Those sold on eBay might leak.
I've found this one made by RIPP:
http://www.rippstore.com/ProductDeta...uctCode=OCC001

Any advice if it's good or not?

There is another similar product called Condensator but is way too expensive.
http://www.condensatorsales.com/index.html
This one is using some adsorbant separator (silica gel beads) for recovering 'valuable vapors (such as sulfur dioxide, oxides of nitrogen and volatile organic solvents)'
http://www.condensatorsales.com/html...separator.html
http://www.condensatorsales.com/html...or_legend.html

The last one looks cheap, just like the bowl is made from plastic.

I'm just trying to find the best combination...

 

i just want to know, do you guys leave the filter in it or remove it? im assuming you leave in it as is and let it work. im interested in doing this as well. also what do you do with the oil in the collector? dump it back into the motor or recycle?

 

mtl-
I'm not sure about those since nobody that I know on this forum has tried those. You should stick to the ones that are in the how-to or you can try it out for yourself and let us know.


nk2k2-
As for the caught oil, I dump mine into the oil pan since it shouldn't be reused at all.

 

what about the filter? do you change it when it gets dirty or do you remove it form the beinging before install?

 

I took the filter out before installing it.

 

has anyone tried using a remote oil filter housing for this application? I've seen a few and despite the higher cost, you could run an el cheapo oil filter on the end and it's already designed for holding hot oil. and if you even have to replace it it'll be $5-10
anyone?

 

Anyone recommend this system I saw over on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Oil-R...spagenameZWDVW ? I just purchased the husky system over at the local HD and find it to be a bit on the small side. I'm figuring If I get the larger catch can I'll only have to emply maybe every 2-3 months.

 

I don't know how well that works but I know for sure my system works. You can try it if you like.

 

Crap that isn't what I wanted to hear. How often are you under the hood to drain that thing? Like after how many gas tank fill ups/miles? So after it fills with oil you just pour it back into the engine?

 

You might not want to put that back into the engine, it's only an ounce or less, plus, the chemical makeup of the oil itself may have been compromised by it being vaporized, or "misted", but I could be wrong.

And as to how long you have to drain it, I find it depends a lot on the condition of your engine. I have 61k, and I take the best possible care of my engine. I only empty it every 3-4 weeks, and I have like 1-3 tbsp of oil, depending on the driving habits of that time period. I have the same Husky filter as was origionally done. That's my .02