so about 6 mo age i've changed my pads and rotors to a slotted rotors and new pads due to wrapage of the old ones.....now we are back to the same time 6 months ago......i think that my rotors are shot again.

When on high way the ster wheel will sahke really bad (like old times) when braking. So i think that my rotors are shot....the problem is i have no idea where to get them cut/resurfaced. Any input will be help full - i`m around chicagoland.

One more problem, maybe you guys know - since day one after change tio new pads/rotors when breaking i always get really loud humming/ kinda like houling noise. Any idea what would cause that - pads are ceramic and when i did installed them i did "bleed" them in( fast stops, slow stops etc etc)

Thanks for any input u can guys

 

What pads did you put in? You can try to clean the rotor a little with 120 grit sand paper, and try some new pads.

 

Sorry to hear that.

What brand/model brake pads are you using?
What brand/model rotors are you using?
How many miles on them?

From what i have read here and from what i have experienced on all my cars...sounds like you got poor quality pad or/and rotors.

To resurface the rotors, go and ask at a major car parts store in the area.They will help you. Local "Kragen Auto" stores resurface rotors for very low price.
Invest in some good pads after that.
Personally, i am getting confused on what brake pads are considered good but there is definetely soem that will destroy your rotors in no time. People seem to recommend HAWK HPS, which i am planning to get too.


I think you confused "bleed" with "bed". Bleedig and bedding are two different procedures. Bleeding is when you try to get AIR out of the brake system (calipers, brake lines) and you release brake fluid from the calipers' bleeding valves.

 

What brand/model brake pads are you using?
What brand/model rotors are you using?
How many miles on them?

pads are ceramic pads from NAPA/CAR Quest( the only place that had pads for my car when i was changing my breaks)

rotors are powerslot rotors from custom maxima

there been less then 10k put on the new pads/rotors


I know that big retail autoparts stores will cut the rotors but here is where the problem is.....there slotted - i've allready talked to couple shops and they said that they won't touch them becaue it will destroy their baldes. From when information i've gathered you need and circular shaped blade to cut slotted or drilled etc rotors.

 

Sand paper......

 

n3985 Sand paper......

sand paper sounds good , but how much of "sanding" should i do to the rotors? I don't want to over do it. Is there a way to know when is a good time to stop "sanding" ?

 

Don't worry, hand power + sand paper does not come close to removing "too much" material from a rotor. I suggest you to just sand away until you see fresh metal.

 

Sanding isn't going to make them flat again. Did you torque your lug nuts when you installed them originally?

 

Who said anything about making them flat? Most probably he has some kind of pad material build up, which will be removed by the sand paper. Then he can test to see if his rotors are indeed warped or not.

 

i kinda figured that sanding will only remove a very thin layer or just clean the rotors......and to answer your question, i did not torque them which for i should be what i`m looking for now is q shop that will cut them. Don't really want to buy new rotors at this point. Just had those for 6mo( 10k or less on them)

 

I also went down this road a couple of years ago. In case the sanding doesn’t work and you are willing to shell out a few bucks you can try cryogenically treated rotors. I would also say from experience that having them turned will only work for a while and the warping will come back worse.

The reason rotors warp is because of residual stresses left in metal from when the rotors where cast. These stresses aren’t relieved all the way during cooling because it would take too long (time =$) for manufacturers to wait for them to cool (temper) slow enough. If the rotors are thick enough the residual stresses do not cause warping because there’s enough material to overcome the internal stress. Thinner rotors warp more easily. This is especially the case with 5th gen maximas. Warp occurs when rotors go through temperature cycles. The internal stresses want to change the rotor's shape as they heat and cool. The result is only a slight change per heating cycle. Over time it becomes more noticeable and you can feel it when you hit the brakes. However it can happen more quickly if you hit a huge puddle of water with hot rotors since water obviously cools much faster than air.

Cryogenically treating metal has been around for a while, but I’m not sure how long people have been using it on rotors. The metal is placed in liquid nitrogen or some other ridiculously cold liquid which actually realigns the metal's structure on the molecular level. Then the metal is warmed slowly over a day or two and the result is a part almost 100% free from internal stresses. I bit the bullet and bought some treated front rotors for my Maxima a couple of years ago and they have worked great. They claimed increased pad life with this treatment, but I think wear has been about the same. They also claim increased rotor life which I do believe since the metal does harden during treatment. I bought mine from Frozen Rotors. Check out others since it was two years ago. Man this turned into a book :-)

http://www.frozenrotors.com/brakefaq.shtml
http://member.newsguy.com/~nutech/frames.html

 

im gonna try some frozen rotors, i hate this shaking steering wheel thing and i enjoyed reading your book

 

Kragen/Checker 'cut' mine for 7$/rotor. My boat anchors haven't warped yet.... Been on for 6 mos, 10-12k.

 

slotted rotors clean the surface of the brake pad each swipe, which means your rotors are removing small portions of the material needed to create friction and absorb energy when you need them.

i researched opinions about slotted vs drilled vs drilled + slotted. I settled on drilled (because i did not want to replace my pads every 5k miles) and pbr metal master pads. have had no issues.

sounds like the weak link were the napa pads. good luck finding a shop to turn your slots.. i would suggest, going for the sand paper and some quality pads.

the shaking may not mean the rotors are warped, could be the pads getting over heated and passing on the negative effect back to the rotors, ultimately one of the 2 has to get rid of the heat. they are supposed to work together, sounds like in your case 1 is doing all the work.

be mindful that you must use complimentary parts. great rotors + garbage pads = garbage brakes, likewise great pads + garbage rotors = garbage brakes.

good luck

 

so i found a place that will cut my rotors, since there not "normal"the guy is chargin $25 per 1....the place is in Addison, il for all of you from illinois/chicagoland

i think i`m going to freeze my rotors and try that too

 

they're able to cut slotted rotors?

is there a special torque wrench just for lug nuts?

 

yes they are. when i called the place the guy asked me if there sloted or drilled or both for the price reference. From waht he said they are able to do it but it takes about 2 hours per one due to a special blade that he has to use(round one - instead of a regular ) and the machine can't go as fast becaues it would either break the blade or destroy the rotors.

 

FWIW I'm going to have to say that frozen rotors (in my experience) are more hype than anything else.

I had frozen rotors (front) after several "warpings" on this car and they warped just as quickly as the others. And in fact, they didn't last as long as the stock rotors, as they were too thin to resurface after they warped. Of course there are a lot of other contributing factors dealing with this, but right then and there I felt the additional cost of the cyrogenic freezing definitely wasn't worth it.

Now, though, I have my 6th gen brakes and am pretty satisfied.

 

my baer rotors are warped and that really surprised me. well at least they are covered by lifetime warranty.

warped rotors suck. oem rotors are made out of cheap material that nissan loves to use.