Hey guys I got my maxima web page back up and posted some new pics. You can check them out by clicking on the link below my sig picture.

 

340hp? I thought it doses the car to 280 @ wheel?
just wondering.

 

Remember I have and auto which amounts to approx. a 22 percent loss in hp to the wheels (based on the hp generated at the flywheel). I'm probably generating approx. 265 fwhp based on my initial dyno plot where I got 250 fwhp with only the SCer. I have since added the Cattman SS y-pipe and the Protorque T.C.er so I'm conservatively guessing that those two mods will add another 15 fwhp. Hopefully more than that but I'm going with the conservative figure since I haven't had it back up on the dyno and right now its too Damn hot here in Texas to dyno it. I'm waiting for some cooler temps before I get it back up on the dyno. Hey I just had a thought, does the dyno take into account the outside temp when computing the hp and torque figures? If so I'll get it dynoed again soon so that I can get some firm numbers.

 

shiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet i want boost.

 

the stillen flagship dynoed at 302 to the wheels with the V2, stillen y-pipe, and stillen muffler...
and yes, that car is a 5 speed...

 

nice I love the sleeper look

 

Looks Great

 

That is the epitome of the word "sleeper"

Very Nice!

 

340HP very nice ....
what are your 0-60 and 1/4 mile times? it would be nice to know what a SCd auto is capable of.

Also do you have a dyno chart you can post, I'm really interested in seeing how boost alters the maxima torque curve.

 

looks awesome Diedrick

i got a ques. though... most people when they get boost put at least a A/F gauge... u not worried what ur ratio is?

i like the less gauges the better but arent u worried about like other readings and stuff thats happening?

i cant wait to get more $$$ to do the SC... ill stick with NOS in the meantime... its cheaper...

 

Yes, If you use SAE corrected figures (everyone does) it will correct to standard temperature, humidity, and pressure. Your car might actually put down say 265 hp, but corrected it might be 275, etc.

We just dynoed a friends supercharged VR6 at 9 psi boost in 101 F heat and high humidity (dewpoint was about 80 F). His correction factor was surprisingly only about 1.02 to 1.03, meaning his corrected values were about 2-3% higher than the actual values.

Ive tested my NA Maxima in both warm and cool temps. When I dyno tested at 72 F, my actual wheel hp (211 hp) was about 6 hp more than when I tested around 90F (205 hp). But, after the SAE correction, they were both within 0.5 hp of each other at around 205 .

So, go dyno that thing and post the results!

 

Mmmmmm....... boooooooooooooost.

 

Looks Nice Diedrek, Nice sleeper look, Reminds me of a car I have seen I just can't put my finger on it.

 

I asked Stillen and my mechanic about the need for an A/F gauge and they both said that it would be nice to have but not a necessity. My mechanic highly recommended the boost gauge so that I can closely monitor the S/Cer. If I'm running stock internals and haven't modified the Stillen kit, which is specifically designed for this car, do I really need an A/F gauge? How would I be able to adjust the A/F ratio anyway if I noticed it was running to lean or too rich? Thanks in advance.

 

well if its too rich im not sure but then again its not hazardous to the car... but if its lean i think it means that you have to get a bigger fuel pump to pump more gas... and lean = very bad

 

The Stillen kit came with a Vortech auxillary fuel pump, which kicks in under WOT, to supplement the OEM fuel pump so that the engine can enough fuel during boost.

 

Where did you get your pillar pod from and for how much? Thanks.

 

Stillen but my mechanic told me that it was too small and wouldn't fit so he took an A-pillar mount pod used on an eclipse and spray painted it to match my interior. My shop didn't charge me for the a-pillar pod but I did pay $400 for the Greddy boost gauge. If you want more info I can give you the name of my shop and who to speak to.

 

Talking about all these dyno runs. Whew! I've been to the dyno quite a few times already with the max. I don't quite understand where some of these numbers are coming from. I have the induction kit, muffler, y-pipe, and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. After letting the car cool down quite a bit, best hp figure i could squeeze out was 208. That was adjusting quite a bit for the added fuel the stock computer was adding. My A/f was around 11 before, now its up around 13.4 at WOT. At 11.3 before the fuel regulator i was only pushing 203. so a 5 hp gain, but temps were different, and the car had around 9-10 passes to get the fuel set right. Where you got 211 or more from i is not sure. Especially with hotter weather.

 

What kind of "custom induction" do you have, Foglght?

 

that the "SC" would not go on auto cars. How is this possible with yours Dmax. If that is the case and yours is working I am on my way to be "SC'ed"!

 

DROOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL... Very nice. Love the sleeper look too. I think that's how I'm going to leave my ride when I drop in my SC. My friend's been telling me that I'll need to put in a new exhaust to really take advantage of it. Does keeping the stock exhaust pipe hamper the performance of the SC? I would prefer to keep the car looking bone stock from the outside.

 

The 211 HP is UNCORRECTED actual wheel output at 72 F ambient. When corrected to SAE standard, it was about 205 hp. In hotter weather, the actual wheel output drops, but the corrected values stay relatively constant.

Hmmm....its good to know that you are getting the same power readings as we have gotten here. More or less, 203-205 hp is about it with the intake and Y-pipe. Some of the dynos show 208 hp, but this is the peak value recorded when the rev limit is hit which causes a spike (see my plots). The actual peak is about 2-3 hp lower if the blip is removed.

Hmm...also good to know what the A/F ratio is on the Max. Ive never tested mine. I guess a few more ponies are available by leaning it out a bit.

 

I'm still debating on the Greddy cat back system. The stock exhaust cat back is pretty free flowing and getting an aftermarket one like Greddy will probably only add about 5 hp. The main reason people get aftermarket cat back systems is for the exhaust note. I like my car quite but sometimes I find myself wanting more of a growl (especially after seeing The Fast and the Furious) but not TOO loud so I'm waiting to see how the Greddy system sounds.

 

Ran into problems this week. For those of you who read my last post, you need to read this. Well after a couple of days with the fuel pressure adjusted right my PCM decided it didn't like the addition. I would get a Check engine light. At work i pulled the codes and it said MAF! I thought that modifying the MAF to get rid of that square lip damaged the electronics (MAF's are very sensitive). The car would not respond over 1/4 throttle (classic MAF problem). Well, after many a debate with my other techs at the shop i decided to remove the new pressure regulator i bought. Problem solved. Why the computer was throwing a MAF code is a mystery to me. I've decided since i am going to throw a ZEX NOS kit on the car that the Apexi S-Afc is the best way to go for this one.
By the way my custom induction kit is comprised of a Civic Si pipe then a part of the prelude kit (i think its from a prelude. It ends up below the radiator in the little plastic tray on the bottom of the car. The car has such a sweet sound starting at 3k. It growls all the way up to 6.5k!

cya
Ryan

 

Oooooo..... when you said induction kit, I thought you were talking about boost. Thanks for the explanation.

 

I think its cool to see a Vortech on something besides mustangs (ex-GT man)! I would love to pull up next to a Max and hear that kinda high-pitched grinding the vortech makes!

Looks good man, keep us informed on dyno and 1/4 times.