2k2 6spd i/h/y/catback

so about a week ago, i was filling up my car at a 76, and i apparently had my lights on for the duration of the fill up (i leave my lights on auto, and for some reason, maybe my door wasn't closed all the way, the lights didnt' turn off)

anyway, my car wouldnt' start. It wouldn't even turn, it would just make a clicking noise. it was a little weird since my lights, radio, and everything worked fine. anyways, since it was late, no one was around to jump, i just did a rolling start, got it to turn, and my car was fine afterward.

yesterday... i start my car in the morning, and it has trouble starting up. It takes a couple tries to actually get my car to start. but as i'm backing out of my garage... i stall, and my engine dies. i was a little confused since i very rarely ever stall, and on the rare occasions that i do, i can tell that i had f'ed up. but this time, i felt i hadn't done anything to cause the stall. I start up the car again, and i realize that my throttle isn't responding. (which probably caused me to stall the 1st time). I can't rev the engine at all. the throttle is absolutely unresponsive!

this lasts for only about a minute. then it suddenly kicks in and i'm able to drive to my destination and back without any problems.

WHAT'S GOING ON WITH MY CAR???
mods that possibly could be connected (that i could think of): s/afc 2, udp, blehmco grounding kit, o2 sims. and i have a stock battery.

ARE THESE TWO INCIDENTS RELATED?

CAN MY ECU POSSIBLY DIAGNOSE PROBLEMS WITHOUT LETTING ME KNOW WITH AN SES? i'm not showing a SES, but should i still check the codes at the dealer? or the self-diagnosis procedure?

 

check the codes and get back to us...but as far as I know, those mods shouldn't effect your vehicle...

how is the car running now?

 

When my car was throwing a P1320 code for Ignition coils, I cleared the codes and fired it up. I then turned off the motor and checked the codes... Even though the light was NOT on, I had a code stored.

Check to be sure.

 

they are most likely related, check the tb valve to make sure it moves freely. disconnect the battery for like 10 min, let it reset and drive the car, see if any codes pop up. if the rest of the time it drives fine its probibly not the MAF, or TPS. could be an IACV issue, it may need a cleanning...but with the drive by wire its not recomended. i guess u cant even play with the TB since its drive by wire.

 

umm... thanks

any other ideas? no codes are stored in my ecu.*just to clarify... i checked the codes with the self-diagnosis/throttle method. this should be sufficient, no?

 

yes, that should be sufficent...how is the car driving now? if it's driving normal for now, just wait it out until a code pops up...

 

yeah, my max's behaving more or less normally. i'm just worried about losing throttle when it's needed (i.e. merging on freeway, kicking a mustang's eSs) or not being able to start my car again.

i guess the only thing is to wait, unless someone chimes in on possible causes of a loss of response in the throttle.

 

Hmmm...sounds like a MAF going bad to me.

 

The MAF would make it not do anything? I thought that put it in limp mode where it only revs to 3k, if he's pushing the gas and getting nothing at all wouldnt that be the drive by wire system?

 

i agree, carsarecool...

but just curious... what makes you think it's the maf?

 

10char

 

really? anybody else think it's a bad maf?

 

could be but id say unlikely

 

+1 for the drive by wire thing... saw same thing happen on a 03 pathfinder auto.... push the gas all the way, very little or no response at all!!! but didnt stall maybe because of the auto trannie... but good luck man...

 

Could be MAF 'cause sometimes when it's going bad it doesn't throw any codes - when I replaced mine I got the power back but I think I got the same probs now but this time it's under warranty.

 

I can't believe nobody has mentioned "bad alternator" yet....that and MAF would be my top two choices.

Having had both of these problems myself, I'd lean more toward bad alternator, especially if you have anywhere near 100K miles...

 

not that i have one, but how would you diagnose a BAD alternator?

 

i was gonna say that just now!
after i say check the battery first.

 

the pcm wont store a fault or run self deagnosis if the battery voltage is below a certain level.

load test the battery and check the alternator output.

 

thanks for the info fellas. for the others that wanted to know more about alternators and diagnosing them... this is a good thread.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....est+alternator

so this sucks. do you guys think there's anyway of getting a replacement alternator covered by warranty by telling them stuff like that? (i.e. dimming interior lights, loss of power, etc) would a multimeter test do the trick? or do i have to wait till my alternator COMPLETELY dies... kills my battery and i get stuck somewhere with a car that finally throws a code, but won't take me home.

 

yes, you can test it with a multimeter
1. check battery voltage with engine off. It should be about 12v
2. start engine and check battery voltage with engine on. It should be 12.5-14.5v or so.
3. turn headlights and other electrical accessories (radio, defroster) on. Voltage should still be 12.5v or more with engine running.

if voltage is unchanged with engine on, or just about 12v, your alternator is probably going bad. Could also be a bad wire or bad connection...so make sure you check that stuff first as well.

 

I am having the same problem with response issues. It is getting progressively worse. What happens is, from a cold start (car has been sitting for a couple hours) I start it up, it idles normal, but then when I try to rev the engine in neutral, the rpms go up a little bit and then it bogs down and takes a couple seconds to continue going up. I then go to drive and the car start jerking, like it's not getting fuel, but then after a few seconds, it kicks in the drives fine the rest of the trip. Anyone know what's up with my max?

 

When I first start the car up from a cold start, leave it in neutral and floor it, the rpms go fine up to 2000k-ish and then it bogs and won't go up any higher, so I have to pump the pedal a couple time and then it will make it past the 2k mark and it will be fine until the car is started cold again.... any idea guys?

Edit: CEL is *NOT* on

 

rabStyle, Probably check the MAF. You can order just the sensor from Dave B. or swap with another Max if possible.

Willkim, I have very similar symptoms from a positive battery cable that needed replacing (down to the headlights not turning off). So I'd check Battery, cables, and Alternator like Irish said.

 

the MAF would do that only on a cold start and then not give me any other problems? I was thinking maybe the throttlebody plate was all gunked up...

 

Ditto on Irish's diagnosis. It really sounds like the alternator. Are the brake light and battery light both on? If so, probably the alt.

 

link for alternator change write-up: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=488293

 

+1 on the alternator, would have a place like Sears to check it out. If it is not the alternator, I am guessing it is the starter

 

starters don't change throttle response.

 

nope. no lights... no codes. i'm guessing very early symptoms of a dying alternator. i just wish i didn't have to wait for it to die completely before my warranty does anything about it. [i'm also waiting on my ignition coils to throw a code... so i can finally replace 'em for free. they're going bad i can feel it. ]



*can you tell i'm a hypochondriac when it comes to my max?*

 

Now the rpms bog at 4k at cold start...

 

And..... ......

 

I am looking to see what people think the problem is...........

 

You were given a suggestion, act on it.

 

Sorry to resurrect a ten year old thread, but I had a situation similar to this.

2k2 auto Maxima, Throttle stopped responding to any pedal inputs while driving. Starts normally, no check engine light. Put a voltmeter on the battery and alternator is putting out over 17 volts.

Replaced the alternator, throttle response now normal.

 

Hi what if the alternator was replaced recently there are no codes and still no throttle response?