StreetzINC

Ok i have a 00 max 5spd i was getting a P1320 and the car wouldnt start?? I checked all crank and camshaft sensors they are all working and my condenser was good also. The problem was i was getting a spark signal(weak) on cylinders 1,2, and 3 but no signal at all from 4,5, and 6. So i swapped my ecu with one i got from a junkyard(exact same car 00 max 5 spd federal emissions) i hooked it up and the car started then shut off. I checked the spark signals to the spark plugs and they are now all getting spark signal but the car still wont start. So i pulled the spark plugs and the are wet with gas i wiped each one off and tried to start the car again it didn't start. I used a scantool and pulled 2 codes P1165 and P1131. Is there anything i can try to get the car started r do i have to get the ecu reprogrammed??????????? ps The motor is turning but it won't start. Someone please help me my baby has been down a month and a half now i at least want to try to get it started to get it to the dealership the closest one is 35 miles away that would be one heck of a towing fee!!!

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

try pulling the car with another....... it sounds like an electrical problem.... take it to the dealer......

StreetzINC

No one else can tell me anything??????

PAREDLINE

what is 1165 and 1131?

PAREDLINE

Its a long shot but look in your fuse panel and make sure the START SIGNAL fuse isn't blown. Also using a 12 volt tester, see if the START SIGNAL fuse gets power when you push the ignition key forward to crank the car.

If it doesn't change your ignition switch or if you want to save money you can connect your starter wire to the start signal wire with a relay.

StreetzINC

The fuse gets power when i switch the key to the on position but when i go to crank it i am getting no power to that fuse?????? What does this mean??????

PAREDLINE

Are you sure you're at the correct fuse?

Thats the total opposite of what it should be. It should have NO power when in the ON position and power only when cranking.

This basically tells your computer that your engine is going to start and all necessary adjustments are made.

So if you are on the correct fuse, your computer is being told that the engine is starting when it's actually running, and NOT when it's starting which is probably not a good thing and I can bet this will change your timing and air/fuel ratio to run more rich.

Next you should probe wires from your Ignition switch. Make sure you identify the START SIGNAL wire. It should energize ONLY when the STARTER wire is energized. If it is energized all the time, change your ignition switch. The contacts have worn out and there's a short in there.

StreetzINC

I think the immobilizer is on cause security light is on when you try to start the car. I think i need to have my key programmed into the new ecu???????????? Does anybody agree with me???

P. Samson

I had not realized that you had changed out the ECM. You need to disconnect the battery and get the original ECM back in the car. The codes off the swapped ECM are meaningless/bogus.

Gennady7

You need to get your key reprogrammed by nissan so that it will work with the new ecm. I know that for sure because when I wanted to swap my ECM, I was told that I needed to do it only at nissan so that they can update the key otherwise the car wont start.

StreetzINC

I am on the right track now people yesterday i switched my ecu and got the key reprogrammed the car cranked up but is burning rich i pulled the DTC codes P1165 and P1130 i was told buy nissan that this code is for the swirl control valve. Something is wrong with the old ecu because it would only pick up P1320. Anybody ever had these codes and what did u do to correct the problem??????????????? or can anybody tell me if the swirl control valve will cause my car to burn rich and act as if its misfiring????????

5thgenmaxima

iTrader: (1)

Those codes may have been stored from before. Probably the case since you pulled those codes before you even got the car to start. Reset the mil light and see if it returns. As far as running rich, the ecu may need to learn it's new fuel trim values. OR you still have an ignition problem (I.E. unburned fuel) and that is your problem why you are running rich.

P. Samson

How rich? Did you run only a few seconds and shut down or is it continuously puffing black smoke out the tailpipe. This thing is so loaded with raw fuel, so I'll just bet it'll be puffing black smoke for a minute or so. Is the idle reasonably correct and stable? If it's running reasonably OK, I would try driving it so that it "relearns" like 5gen. said above. As far as the idle is concerned if the idle is not correct/stable you are going to have to do the Idle Air Volume Learning procedure. The rest of the "relearn" is just a matter of driving "normally" for awhile.

PAREDLINE

Check your start signal again. If your start signal wire is energized when the engine is running- not just starting- you will run rich.

P. Samson

Damn.......just twigged that you've got to do BOTH, the Throttle Pos. Sensor Idle Position Memory first, AND then the Idle Air Volume Learning if you hadn't realized it.

UMD_MaxSE

iTrader: (1)

If you are getting a swirl control valve code with your fed spec car, then the ECM you swapped in was not a fed spec ECM... the swirl control valve is only applicable to cali-spec emissions vehicles.