if you have a o2 sensor heater malfunction or something like that, my sig has info on how to simulate the heater

 

I'm about 95% sure they labeled this drawing wrong. The O2 sensor w/ the red wire is for the P0430 code.

 

mad props to Puppetmaster, BlackBird, and others who put the info in stickies and answered Qs with this. No more CEL, no more P0430, the engine runs noticeable smoother than before, all for $30 and 10 mins of the time...

 

you dont have a sig!

 

Can someone input? which labeling is correct?

 

the labeling on this pic is incorrect for 3.0 cali-spec.


The second connector from the left is the one you need for P0430

 

Glad to be of assistance.....

 

The O2 sensor with the red wire shroud is for the front bank (P0430) code.

 

Hey puppetmaster. You were helping that guy out with his hookup also in the thread that the picture came from. Good for your extensive experience. I just found the picture and thought it would help. Atleast those two would be simulated with a dual output right?

 

Does the o2 simulator just mask the SES light, or does it actually control airflow? I live in PA and just got the 0430 light. If the cat is bad, and I put on an O2 sim, I would still expect to fail emisions. Am I wrong? I would much rather spend the $30 bucks on an O2 sim if I can get by the emissions test.
Should I just spend the bucks on the other O2's that I havent replaced yet (see below)? Any help would be appreciate as I am up for inspection/emmisions next week.


00' SE
149K
Cali spec
replaced two other sensors (black and blue(P0139, P0139)) 6 months ago.

 

umm....poll?

 

Just get the simulator since they send the right message to the ecu and you dont get a check engine light you wont fail emissions. The two that you will be simulating are just monitoring sensors and do not control the a/f ratio. They just monitor crap.

 

Well, I've escaped this code for some time and now it is haunting me again. Last time was a couple of months ago and it went away, but it's back!

Ok, so far no one has directly answered which bank is bank 2. So which one is bank 2? The side toward the front of the car? I have a y pipe CA Spec and at 112000 miles now. This pesky code has been coming on and off. I don't know if it's because there are loose wires or what. Since I have a CA spec with Cattman Y pipe, the rear downstream O2 sensor is basically sniffing the exhaust after the front precat (towards front of car).

So If the front precat is bad (causing P0430) wouldn't I get a code saying bank 1 (toward firewall) is bad too? This all assuming bank 2 is toward front.

I'm wondering if it's just the downstream (front) O2 sensor that is bad. Or do I really have to replace the front precat?

The car is kind of sluggish at low RPM and come to life after 2500RPM. I don't think my VI is bad as it still accelerates past 5000RPM when it kicks in.

If I can just replace the sensor, it's not too too expensive at Pep Boys. Bosch Univ replacements (cut/splice) cheaper, but OEM plugs are around $60-70 I think each.

 

searched some more, figured out bank 2 is front...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=472679

Any thoughts to the rest of my rant?

 

Maxima 2000 California Spec

Couple years ago when the car had just under 80K, P0420 started popping up. Fortunately, I was able to convince the dealer and eventually he fixed it. But at first he only updated the ECU which kept the light off for few hundred miles but the code P0420 came back. I recall they replaced the cat for that bank.

Fast forward to 107K miles and now I got P0430. I am thinking of going O2 sim on that bank. I am wondering if I should do O2 sim on both banks. One never knows how smart the Nissan ECU is; it might try to compare two banks readings!

I have good experience with mechanical O2 sim in my other vehicle and will use the same ebay dealer to pick up more.

I have done enough research on P0420 and P0430 in last five years to convince myself that these codes are spurious in a well running car with NO OTHER SYMPTOMS. I have verified O2 sensor graphs to their correct behavior using real time OBD scanner. I feel absolutely no guilt about using O2 sim in this circumstances.

I am assuming that there is room for putting the O2 sim on both banks.

- Vikas

 

I'll be doing the same thing. Mine has been popping the 0420 code on and off (absolutely no symptoms) since the test drive (dealer replaced the O2 sensor as a condition of purchase) and my Dad's mechanic says the problem would then definitely be the cat...not clogged, just cleansing the exhaust below the threshold the ECU is monitoring for. Said either replace the cat or run an O2 sim to pass inspection. No tailpipe sniffer, they just plug into the OBDII port to see if there are any active codes (stored codes are fine if the SES light is off when they do the test).

 

You are "the" Scottwax from the other detailing site, right?? Glad to see you here too! I am impressed with your work and all the hints that you have provided on that site.

My other car is Honda Odyssey and that gave me so much trouble with P0420 for so many years but I have enough data to show that even with P0420 code, the van gets stellar tailpipe numbers. There are also other sites where this is corroborated.

In a nutshell, the ECU starts throwing fits when the efficiency drops below (say) 90%. That is the reason if you go with after market converter the light comes back on very soon. With genuine OEM converter, you get about 70-110K miles before it will drop its performance to the magic number and light will start coming on.

Go with the mechanical O2 sim. I will be using the same ebay vendor that I used for my Honda. It was a well made adapter and worth the price. While on the spending spree, pick up an OBD scanner. The cheapest one shipped is $25!!

- Vikas

 

Yeah, I am he. I figure it is easier to just keep the same user name and av on all the boards I go to, that way people know it is the real Scottwax.

Thanks, sounds like some solid information. I'll also have to let my brother know, he has an '04 Odyssey that already has 81,000 miles on it! No CEL currently but I'll let him know what to do if he gets the same code.

 

heres mine installed

 

I've had the code off and on for about 3 months now, and I believe the pre-cat is the culprit.

If I cant find one for under $100 bucks at a junk dealer, then I my as well ante up and give Cattman $799 to eliminate the pre-cat altogether, w/headers.......Instead of just tossing 400-500 to fix the problem and not get any benefits out of it....(performance wise)

Makes sense to me.....

 

That looks like an electrical one. I am little surprised that the rear sensor is so close to the engine.

- Vikas

 

Update*

2 months ago I went to a shop that charged me 600 bucks to replace the cat. They totally thought PO430 was the cat so I said fine! I forked it over passed smog after they installed it. Flash forward two months later the SAME CODE is up P0430 so now they think it's the sensor which is an additional $200.00 DAMMIT this code is horrible I swear if I put that sensor in and two weeks later the same code comes on but this time it's the precat I'll be steaming.

This is the worst code in Nissan history no other code has been so bad! The MAF was such an easy fix!

 

Great thread, def. subscribing- I've got a P0430 and 440, I'm not gonna do o2 sims but thinking about replacing that 1 sensor with the red wire. I ave a y-pipe too so I've only got 1 precat, but the code was there well before.

 

Replaced mine with a test pipe from WarpSpeed.
Just bought spark plug non defoulers from a local auto parts store and will be following these instructions. CLICK_HERE

 

Guess what I will be doing before my next emissions inspection?

 

I have purchased the parts already, and will drill out one of them on my lathe tomorrow.
I would like the check engine light to be off, this way if something is wrong I will notice. Right now I assume the light is because I am cat-less with a y-pipe.

I will make a how to for the Maxima guys. My contribution to the .org.

 

Looking forward to your write-up.

 

Was that an OEM Nissan cat? They did change the bank 2 cat, correct? If it was not OEM cat, then you will get the code back within few months. If it is OEM cat, you will get the code back in 70-100K.

The sensor will NOT give you P0430 code.

- Vikas

 

They replaced the main cat with an Aftermarket cat...So you are saying I shouldn't replace the bank 2 sensor?

 

You will need a scanner with real time O2 sensor graphing ability. Most of the PC based scanner do that. They are about $100. I have BR-3 scanner.

With it you can compare the waveform of front vs rear O2 sensor. You want to see fast switching on front and slow switching on rear. If both are switching fast, then your converter is non-functional and the sensors are fine.

In all likely, you will find that graphs look OK but computer still throws a code. In that case your computer is being very picky and after market converter does not help because it is NOT as efficient as OEM. The problem is their efficiency will eventually drop below the threshold and computer has programmed that threshold unnecessarily very high.

Having new sensor will not hurt but most likely will not fix your problem. New after market will fix it for few months and OEM will fix it for few years.

How are your short term and long term fuel trims? How is the general running of the car? If everything is fine, then you should have those guys give you yet another converter.

- Vikas

 

Machined it out on my lathe. All it took was A half a minute . So no pictures.

I will install it tomorrow night, and reset the ECU by unplugging it for enough time to reset the light. We'll then count how many miles till it turns back on.

 

Update:

There seems to be not enough room to put in a spacer with out the o2 sensor hitting.

Time to order o2 simulators. Which ones?

 

How about a right angle extension? Those are more expensive but I have seen them on ebay and cost at least 4 times the straight extension.

Given you have a lathe, I am sure you can fabricate one.

- Vikas

 

Before I fab one up, I have to recheck to see which o2 sensor is causing the codes.

Fabbing one up isn't hard, but I do have to tap it and what not.

 

OK IT'S SMOG TIME AGAIN!

So which one do I buy from O2simulator.com to eliminate P0430

This one:

Universal o2 simulator single output
$40.00

* Model: unv-o2sim1
* 100 Units in Stock
* Manufactured by: Advance Development



# Fully assembled and tested simulator.
# Microcontroller based for reliability and accuracy.
# Reverse voltage and short circuit protection.
# Specifically designed printed circuit board.
# NOT for primary o2 sensor.
# Completely sealed waterproof package.
# WILL NOT WORK on AUDI,VolksWagen,Porsche
# Small size 1"x0.25"x0.25"


or this one:

Universal o2 simulator dual output
$40.00

* Model: unv-o2sim2
* 100 Units in Stock
* Manufactured by: Advance Development



# o2 simulator for vehicles with two after catalytic converter sensors.
# Fully assembled and tested simulator.
# Microcontroller based for reliability and accuracy.
# Reverse voltage and short circuit protection.
# Specifically designed printed circuit board.
# Completely sealed waterproof package.
# NOT for primary o2 sensor.
# WILL NOT WORK on AUDI,VolksWagen,Porsche
# Small size 1"x0.25"x0.25"

 

Your how to install 02 sim to eliminate P0430 code write up is gone

 

With my emission inspection looming in the immediate future, I was becoming despondent about the ongoing P0430 code which came on after 100 miles (after resetting). I went to Pep Boys and found a bottle of elixir which claimed that if you poured it in your gas tank, your car will pass the emission inspection. I paid about $12 for it, poured it in the tank with a fillup, and lo and behold. After 450 miles, no idiot light! Just a thought....

 

it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's


it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's


it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's


it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's


it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's


it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's


it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's

it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's

it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's

it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's

it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's

it can be upstream or downstream o2's or the cat itself, HOWEVER it's WAYYYY more likely to be the up or down stream o2's

 

SO I am faced with this difficulty currently. I have the o2sim but haven't installed yet.

My only other issue is now I am losing heat (literally engine heat) as I drive around. Can make it quite cold on long trips in New England!

I am hoping somehow the o2 sim will fix it, I doubt it will though.

 

I finally got mine fixed. I paid some dude on the board to throw the 02 sim in and it eliminated the light...Thank god! He wrapped in Electrical tape so the smog people wouldn't flip out. Don't go to a BIG smog place. Take it to a shack like smog place with bearded beer bellied old guys that speak Romanian (it worked for me lol). They won't understand what the bulge around the 02 sensor is.