Weird P0011 Intake Valve TCS Occurrence
 

SES light popped up Saturday. No difference in drivability. Had Autozone check it and got P0011 (intake timing excess advance, Bank #1). Since my Max had the cam pos sensor recall done back in 2004, I didn't want to just replace my CPS willy-nilly.

Took it to the dealer yesterday. Their Consult analysis result? They said I needed to replace (1) crankshaft position sensor, and (2) Intake Valve timing control solenoid valve, Bank #1. Total cost P&L? $557 ($175 for solenoid, $75 for crank sensor + 3 hours labor)!!! :buttshex:

A quick call to Dave B, and I ordered the same parts for $172 total plus shipping.

Fortunately, the dealer recently reduced their basic diagnostic fee to $49, so that's what I paid to get my car back. Meanwhile, my parts should arrive tomorrow (Thursday).

So I get in the car this morning (Wednesday) and guess what? For the 1st time in 4 days - no SES light!! WTF?!?

I'm still planning to replace the parts, but I'm still wondering what's going on? :jeffy: My theory is that the solenoid was sticking and now it isn't. But I figure it'll be sticking again soon if I don't replace it.

PS - I've recently had an intermittent warm start stall issue, and I believe that's related to the crank sensor.

Anyone have any ideas as to what's happening? Bueller? Bueller? I guess this explains why my search on "P0011" and the TCS didn't turn up much.

My new parts showed up today (thanks Dave B) but since my SES light is still in "remission", I'm waiting until the weekend to mess with installing them.

Meanwhile I am still knocking out a very consistent 25 mpg (okay, 24.9 mpg), measured at each fill up (93 Premium only, natch). :D This is my overall daily average, but keep in mind my commute to work is mostly highway.

I'm going to have to agree with you there.

UPDATE:
Installed the new crankshaft pos sensor and new Bank #1 Timing control Solenoid (TCS) tonight (was out of town on vacation for a week).

Crank pos sensor - VERY E-Z, once I dealt with the under-engine trim. So I destroyed a few stubborn plastic trim fasteners. About a 15-minute job.

TCS - That Bank#1 solenoid (nearest the firewall) is a bit tricky to get at without removing the intake manifold, but I successfully changed it out in just over an hour. Fortunately the old gasket was easy to remove. Had to temporarily remove the new FSTB to facilitate the job.

Result? Well, as mentioned the SES light has been off for a few days now, and it didn't come back on after I installed the new parts. Will fully road test in my commute to work tomorrow. I hope it cured the warm stall problem I've been having at warm start-up, but I suspect that's the MAF beginning to let go....

Succinct in response to that SES light just disappearing, the same thing happened to my car too. I have a 2003 like yourself and about a week after pulling a P0650 along with a P0455 and P01448 the light disappared before I even did anything. I quick bulb test confirmed that the SES light is not working at all now. When I turn the ignition to the "ON" position the SES light is not there. It should pop up along with the Airbag and oil light and the other usual lights and then go away after you start the car or stay on if it detects a problem. Check to make sure it's working. I gotta take my car to the stealer to have them check it out.

Thanks for the tip - I'll check that out when I start the car this afternoon. I think I remember seeing it light up at start-up this morning though.

I know this is an old thread, the SES light will reset after so many cycles of the ignition being turned on... If it comes back on you def have a problem with that paticular sensor or circuit so on...

do you know how many cycles it takes?

Why wait for it to cycle, and not find out what tripped it in the 1st place? I'm not in the mood to change paragraphs and all that jazz, but here you go.

what if i know what tripped it cause i checked the code myself, but i want to know how long until it cycles out?

It wont go away unless the problem is fixed.

yes...i know. i didnt ask that. the problem is fixed and the codes remain, thats why i asked how many cycles

Why don't you reset the ECU? That will make the code go away.


http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....85#post2389185

i know that too, but i dont wanna reset my radio stations and possibly the sunroof button. i was just wondering the cycle time, i guess ill wait and find out

Click the link, and perform it :faint: :faint::faint::vqman:

The link does not require you to reset anything else BUT the ECU/, mmkay?

but it does, i know it because ive done it before. just because i have 4x posts doesnt mean im retarded. i know what im doing. i wasnt asking for opinions on what to do, just wanted to know the answer and you obviously dont know it

No, the ECU reset does not require you to reset your Radio preset stations, nor your sunroof.

Not in the procedure in the link.

If you disconnected your battery (another way to reset the ECU), then yes, but if you clicked the link as per my instructions, no you are wrong.




Next time, just click the link.

next time, dont answer unless you are going to answer the question i asked.

He did, but you did not specify what type of car it was for; resetting the ECU will not reset anything else. Unless you disconnect the battery, your settings will remain. Obviously this only works for 3.5s

You happy now?

yes thanks, that was a GREAT answer

:redx.jpg:

Tripod FTW.

having to look up a :007: image FTL. btw, i wasnt asking to be spoonfed, just off the top of the head information, if nobody had it it was fine with me. the way people here treat newbie's is disgusting, ive been looking on this site for over a year and have a fair cumulative knowledge...but because of your post count everybody thinks youre an idiot. making generalizations FTL

Ok, back :topic:

If you reset your ECU using the method outlined in the FSM, my link, you wouldn't have to reset your radio, nor your sunroof. That was my only concern.

Being that you didn't know that, even after I provided you the link, and after I've done it 100's of times on my own car and KNOW that it doesn't require aforementioned casualties, it was NOT a generalization.

It was clear that either you were referring to the 'disconnect battery terminal' for xx hours method, or just blatantly didn't click on my link and assumed I was referring to said battery terminal d/c.

i have this code too and my car has almost no power, what are the symptoms you experienced?

Posts 1, 2 & 4 should help.

yeah but mine has a intake valve timing control cuircuit failure. i checked the cam position sensor with a voltmeter and it looked as though it was performing within the specified limits. 7.5 ohm resistance right? my car also has a short in the MIL circuit so the CEL never lit up. it does FLICKER tho, very faintly, im pretty sure thats not good, also my oil pressure light does it and doesnt light when i do the service test for your guages and meters.

Yeah, I read your other post, and well, it seems as if you've some pretty decent problems there. :sadpace:

Try a new ECU maybe.

thank you for the reply nmex, im takin it to a shop in hope that its a sensor, the mech also wants to find the short for the MIL light. ill update
thanks all