Folks:

I have a 2k2 Maxima SE with about 85,000 miles on it.

In the past year and a half that I've owned this car, I've had 2 wheel bearings go bad (doh!) and a P0021 SES light twice - which went away without any repairs.

Recently, I've had a problem where the car feels like it's towing a boat around 3000 rpms. If you go WOT on the highway when this problem is occuring, it will rev up a little, hesitate, and kind of sit there around 3000 rpms - not accelerating nearly as much as I would expect.

I attributed this to the MAF mainly because it seems everyone has troubles in this area.

I don't have an SES light on, however. Does this make it unlikely that I have a MAF problem?

I am planning on replacing the MAF regardless of the answer to that question - simply becuase it's relatively cheap compared to other things I could repair/diagnose.

As far as I have found, the procedure is something like this:

- Purchase 2001 MAF online. (Where is the best place to buy this these days?)
- Remove 2002 MAF, remove thermisistor from it.
- Install 2002 thermisistor into 2001 MAF, re-install into the car.
- Reset ECU
- (Optional) Reflash ECU at dealership

If any of these steps are incorrect, can someone let me know? Also - does anyone know if the reflash is helpful (ie did someone go a while without it and then get the reflash and notice a difference?)

Thanks in advance for all of the help. This board has been a tremendous help over the past few years.


edit: To add details -

I haven't had any stalling problems. The car is sometimes weak on a cold start but I believe this to be normal. Also, it makes a tinny noise when accelerating lightly around 1700-2000 rpms. The "power band" for the car since I've owned it is basically 4000 rpm+ so I'm assuming my car hasn't been weak since I've owned it (I bought it with 70k miles).

 

DAVEB can get you a good price on a MAF. His ph # is in the stickys.

 

Dave sold me a 2001 MAF for $83 recently.

His number is 1-888-254-6060.

 

any comments on the procedure or anything else?

 

Turn off the car.
Disconnect the battery (if you want).
Remove old sensor (you'll need Torx bits, I think a T-20, but don't quote me on that).
Plug in new sensor (with IAT thermistor).
Start car.

You can take it to the dealership for the ECM software update if you want, but people have run it fine without the update. I think its costs around $90.

 

I just phoned in an order to Dave. It was something like $92.xx shipped. Fantastic.