hey guys,

having some problems wid my 2001 max AE. i was driving the car and it suddenly stall while driving. i tried to restart it but everytime it would start it would die right away. the only way i was able to make it run to my house was that i started it and kept on pressing on the gas paddle and quickly shifted to D so that cars start moving. But everytime i would come to a stop and i tried to reduce the speed it would stall again. i dont understand what could be the problem. could it be the MAF sensor?

now the car is sitting in my garage, everytime i start it it dies after 1 or 2 sec unless i keep on pressing on the gas paddle. i unplugged the MAF sensor and tried to start it and it started and did not stall. i put the sensor back and tried to start again and it did the same thing as before. so i wonder if it's the MAF sensor??

any help would be really appreciated
thanks

 

100% it is the maf sensor, same thing happened to my car replaced maf and like new again. also when you unpluged the maf and it did not stall that is confirmation that it is the maf. only problem if you try to drive like that unplugged it wont go over 3000rpm

 

Thanks for your reply Vinny. k after restarting my car 3 days later i turned it on and it started normally with the maf sensor still plugged. i just let it run for 10 mins so that it just warms up but i didnt drive it. can u explain me the problems u were having wid ur car before u change the maf sensor, could it be the IAC Valve as well ??

thanks

 

How many miles does your car have. Im no mechanic but trying to figure out what the heck is going on with my car, cause I got the same type of symptoms!

 

my car has 73 000 miles, it has to be MAF or IAC Valve

 

If your car doesn't go past 3k rpm it is your MAF. Otherwise its your IACV. Try it out.

 

My car stalls on warm start up unless I give it some gas. I thought it was MAF, replaced it, but the car still stalls. I did some more research, and the next thing on my to do list is throttle body cleaning.

 

Depending on your mielage you might want to look into changing the fuel filter.

 

i had this issue once...but only because one of my spark wires came undone from the spark plug. may be a bad coil or plug? nothing like running on 5 cylinders...had to drive the break and gas like a manual to keep it running.

 

I also think its a bad coil. I had a similar problem. The car would die every time I'd let go off gas.

 

Funny mine has 78000 miles, and also an 01 w/AT. Does your idle drop and the engine tries to catch itself when it nears under 100 rpm. Sometimes my car will not stall but just idle at 300 rpm or lower. Im going to clean TB and IACV and had just ordered a new MAF.
Keep us posted if you find a solution. BTW I have the P0505 (idle system malfunction code) light on.

Edit to add: when the engine stalls while driving does the steering lock up along with the brakes. I have never experience a stall before and that was a scary experience especially in a busy street.
Also I keep reading about this federal law about an 8yr/80k warranty on ecu's. Is this something that Nissan is aware.
thanks, Ron

 

well i am clueless now whats going on wid my max, i thought its MAF but when i start the car and press on pedal the rpm goes over 3000 rpm so i guess its not MAF. the condition has gone worse now as i start it and it shuts off instantly and that gives me very less time to press on gas to rev it up i dunno wats the problem, i will take it to a garage to get it checked.

 

dj, try this first to get it to move. Dissconnect the two connectors that are attached to the TB. Looks grey or maybe brown. wait a few seconds then reconnect. A mechanic friend told me to do that which worked after the idle wouldn't hold after giving it gas.

 

thanks Rhegaana,


i will try that as soon as i reach home lets hope it works
i will keep u updated.. thx

 

ok guys i need some advice here


how can i check if my IACV is good or bad?

 

Very similar problem here. When the car is cold, it will start up and immediatly die, unliess I use some throttle to keep it going. Once it has been running for a few seconds I can let off the throttle and it will idle at approx 700rpm on its own. It seems as though there is no fast idle.

Dealership said IACV was bad, so I replaced it. Took it back for idle relearning and they said that IACV was fixed and that the computer was fine, but my MAF sensor was bad and that was causing the problem. I replaced the MAF sensor and still the same problem.

Anyone have any ideas, I am about to loose my mind

Also shouldn't it try to fast idle when it is cold? Anyone know what sensor triggers a fast idle? Maybe that sensor is bad?

 

ok guys spent the whole yesterday fixing the problem... i did a obd scanning and gave me code p0505. idle air control malfunction, so now i got my idle on manual and car is running wiht idle around 700. i will clean the IAC valve tomarrow and see if it helps, if not then i will get a new IACV and see how it goes

 

I got the same problem. It starts fine, but after i drive it for a couple minutes and come to a complete stop, strugles and rpm goes to around 100 moves a lil and then turns off most of the time. I changed the spark plugs, but when i took off one of them, it was wet and smelled like gas. It's the only one thats wet. Could it mean that the gas is not being completely burned or not at all? Could it be the ignition coil that goes on the spark plug thats bad, i've read about that. Or is it the MAF? Anybody has had similar problems...oh, and does anybody have Dave's #

 

do you still have original, not updated coils? if so theres a good chance at least 1 is bad

 

what code are you getting ?

 

last codes i ever got for my car where for the O2 sensors, as soon as i replaced them i cleared the codes so i wouldn't get the check engine light. That was the last time i checked to see if i got any codes, but i figured since the light wasn't coming on, why bother.

 

Anybody got any ideas on my problem?

 

DJ, please keep us updated on your problem. Some of us here are experiencing the exact same thing.
I already had dropped my car to the dealership because I can't deal with this any longer. To recap though my car is a 01 with A/T and has 79k miles. It stalls all the time and I have to drive with two feet to keep the RPM's up and be able to brake. So far I had a mechanic clean TB and IACV, and just yesterday replaced the MAF. Still stalls. Someone suggested to check your spark plug wires. I will post later as soon as I get a call from Nissan.

 

same thing happened to me but i was in the process of a 10 hour drive from florida(tolls and gas stops were fun with using the ebrake to stop while keep revs up and the foot on the clutch)...shop replaced my idle control valve and now it runs great....

 

I had the same problem as you did at the end of the summer 2006 on my 2003 European Max QX. The engine died after starting warm. Cold start went ok all the time.

I took my Max to the service to get the engine error codes. The solution was actually even simpler: The mechanic cleaned the throttle body and retaught the idle. There hasn't been any such problems since.

So, perhaps you, nailz420 and others too, might want to try reteaching the idle before buying any expensive spare parts!

Hope this works with your Max as well as it worked with mine!

 

cleaning the throttlebody...good habit. my friend does it on his 92 rs camaro now and then when he has trouble with hesitation and it clears the problem. not sure if thats whats wrong with your car, but its worth a try.

 

Slight off-topic:
I'm sorry that my expression for "kaasuläpän kotelo" wasn't exactly correct. It's not always so easy to be Finnish. -If anybody knows the right expression for that word, please tell me!

Back to the topic:
Anyway, the actions the mechanic took to get my Max start and idle well took about 10-15 min at the maximum, so it couldn't have been anything VERY special he did. Actually that pisses me off because I could have retaught the idle myself too and saved a 65 Euros there. -Life's a b**ch, isn't it!

 

Have any of you checked the fuel delivery system? Starting with the fuel pump all the way to the front to the injectors?

 

I just got through fixing this on my 01GLE w/AT. The symptom started with slightly erratic revving at around 1500rpms while driving. After about 5 minutes the car died at a stop light and wouldn't stay running without giving it gas. I got it home and got the P0505. I cleaned the TB, no luck, performed the relearn and then replaced the IACV. I could then start it but once it warmed up it would idle at 15k and rev to ~18k every couple seconds. tried the relearn again but still had the problem. Took it to the dealer and they tried to tell me I needed to replace the IACV, ECU and the electronic motor mounts, ~$2100. They also had another 01 there with the same problem that they had been working on for several days. The ECU was covered by the Ca. Emissions 8/80K, I had just replaced the IACV and I couldn't see anything in the schematics that had the EMMs connected to the ECU or IACV. I told the service manager to replace the ECU, do the relearn and then I took it home. No problems since. As in this this thread the one I was in mentioned alot of the same fixes and possibilities. Good luck!

 

IACV same problem, get it fixed now or you may short the computer, no lie, dealer did it for me but it would have cost me a lot of money.

 

IACV. Had the exact issue with my 4th gen and it turned out to be the IACV.

 

Got the call from the dealer, they said the ecu is fried, but emmissions warranty will cover it. BUT!!! they said I need a new throttlebody system. which includes all parts attached to it( IACV,etc). Cost is $ 1000 plus labor and diagnostics. At this point I think I don't need a new TB just an IACV, but agreed with the repair anyway as I don't want to waste anymore time with this issue. Hope this works!

 

I just had this problem start on my 01 AT today actually, well maybe the same thing. I turn the key and it almost starts, then goes off and I have to give it gas when I turn the key to get it going. Original coils and I just had a ful 60k service with cleaned maf and so forth.

 

i have a similar problem, and i already replaced the battery and alt. checks out fine

 

I seem to have a similar issue. Took the car into the shop after having a misfire. figured out that it was in cylinder #5. after swapping out brand new from factory fuel injectors, Coil packs, and spark plugs, the misfire is still there. a couple days after that was done, it started doing this crazy idle thing where it would keep jumping back and forth durring "idle" around 1400 - 2000. Mechanic replaced ICV. Did not fix problem. any ideas anyone?

 

also during that time it was reving high, i would then come up to a stop sign and it would die needing to keep my foot on the gas peddle. This only happens every once in a while tho.

 

has anyone got a solution to the problem?

 

this happened to my Fiance's car yesterday. The mechanic is saying Mass Air Flow Meter. I guess this is an expensive part, since they are quoting $540 to replace...On my car, it would take 1 minute to replace....Anyone got a pic of the MAF and IACV everyone is talking about...?

 

I'd like to see a pic of the MAF also since I suspect this is why my 01 SE is stalling in neutral and park intermittently.

 

o.k this may be a tad dumb but is the intake all the way on and the reason i ask is because mines fell off while going to work and i had the WTF face not realising that it slid off a tad, now im not calling you dumb but just to make sure that wasnt the problem before you toss money into something thats not bad, its not even an uncommon thing for the intake to come loose