I've noticed that my rear main seal leaks. I saw that when rebuilding tranny, but didn't change it at the time. Now the access hole on the bellhousing is wet, and its engine oil. Car has 145k miles, 2000 5sp.

Has anyone changed that seal? I looked in FSM and it asks to take of aluminum oil pan, which requires to take off AC compressor.
Has anyone done this? Do you need/should change the bearing in there?

Also, my clutch engament range is tiny. I am suspecting oil contaminating the mating surface, but I don't see hows that possible since the leak is on the other side of flywheel. clutch was replaced 30k ago.

thanks for all the help.

 

The rear main seal on my '97 SE was leaking about 2 years ago, (meaning my car would've have been 8 years old). I had about 130K miles on the car. It was a really slow leak, so there wasn't anything to worry about immediately, unless I wanted a little drip in my driveway, which I don't have.

The dealership said it would cost about $800 - $900 to fix, because they have to remove the transmission. I then talked to my local mechanic who does all my work for me, and he said it's not really worth fixing unless I plan on keeping the car for at least 3-5 more years.

Lucky for me (or unlucky, depending on how you look at it), some idiot ran into me totalling my car last April.

 

you will need to pull of the transmission and the clutch and flywheel to change it.

 

I know i have to take off tranny and all, thats not an issue. What about oil pan, not the one where the drain plug is located, but the whole can around the bottom of the engine.?

 

Yes, the upper oil pan has to come off for the rear oil seal replacement.

 

yes, the whole big one, aka the 'upper', but you also have to take off the lower one first because some of the bolts for the upper are underneath there. You also need to use an engine lift to support the engine from above. I've done several of these (actually, I just did my 5th one last night, lol) so if you run into any difficulties feel free to pm me, I can also dig up some threads where I've posted some tips

 

I don't have an engine lift, will have to use the cross member to support it when tranny is off. What about the bearing? Does it need to be changed as typical wear and tear? Also, I don't want to disconnect Ac compressor from the AC line, cause its been good till now (knock on wood). Do I have to take it off, or just unbolting it, and leaving the hoses attached will do?

Thanks.

 

nope, just unbolting it and letting it hang will do. What bearing are you talking about, there's no bearing? also, you NEED an engine hoist, only alternative is to pull tranny, do rms WITHOUT putting in the old or new oil-pan seal, then reinstall tranny and tranny mount (except for the bottom tranny bolts that screw into oil pan) THEN doing the oil pan seals/o-rings. The crossmember WILL get in your way, this is the only other safe alternative other than using an engine hoist or paying me $275.

 

why take off the upper when you can unbolt it and pry the main seal off. Then slide the seal on and put the dust boot on last pry it in with a screw driver.

 

thare's no dust boot, you must mean the c-shaped seal that holds back oil from the upper oil-pan, The fsm says to remove the upper pan for a reason, I can give you the names of at least 4 other .org members (plus myself!) who made that mistake and really regretted it.