I've read countless threads regarding the P0505 code. According to my mechanic, and many other board members this seems to be a common issue for the max. My car is an 01 AE w/ 66k. It has been in the shop for over a week. The IAC was replaced. Now I'm told the ECU is fried and I need a new one along with having my keys reprogrammed. Is there a recall out from nissan? I have no warranty left. I think it's rediculous to spend $1,500 on this issue. I was under the impression that these cars were reliable? Is this issue going to occur again? Why did it happen in the first place? I think the trade in light just came on...

 

Warranty will cover if you don't let them pull you around.

 

Nissan does'nt currently have any recall on 5 or 5.5 gen ECU's. I am glad I am not the only one who thinks they should do a recall. And your ECU is covered by the 8yr/80,000 miles Federal Emission warranty. Don't let then give you the run around and make any excuses to avoid fixing it because they will if you let them. A new ECU runs anywhere from about $700 - $750 and most stealers charge $90 or so to reprogram the keys. There is no reason you should be paying for this if it is still covered by the warranty.

 

I've read through so many threads about this P0505 code, and it's a shame that this is such a common failure. I decided that I would replace my IACV and then get a used ECU and then have a mechanic reprogram keys and idle relearn. Step 1, IACV install is complete. Step 2...still waiting for an affordable/compatible ECM to purchase. QUESTION: Have found a Nissan procedure to program keys to the vehicle. Has anyone ever tried programming their keys to a replaced ECM without going to a dealer?

 

The ECU has to br reprogrammed as well as the keys. I don't think you can do it without a Consult terminal.

 

So there is more than just key reprogramming that needs to be redone? What specifically? I want to call around and ask if they can perform the specific procedures needed...would also help when I try to find a mechanic I can trust...if anything.

I've asked around before but haven't got any detailed advice, but what other specifics are needed when trying to find an ECM. Is there anything else besides AT/noTCS/Fed/'00 Do I need to give them serial#?

Mahalo.

 

Go to www.car-part.com and you can find a good used one near you for under $200. My friend just got another one in the mail yesterday for $150 out of an 03 Max with 18,000 miles on it. When you purchase a replacement ECU you neet to specify whether you car is auto or manual with or without traction control. You need to find out the bracket number on your ECU if you are going to buy it from the dealership for example for my 03 there are five preceeding part numbers that are all the same ECU type.
23710 6Y310
23710 6Y311
23710 6Y312
23710 6Y313
23710 6Y314

These bracket numbers ( the part number stamped on the frame holding the ECU) are all the same. If you go to the dealer the current number for this ECU is 23710 6Y314. For instance if your bracket number is 6Y312 then the 6Y314 is a match.

Now the junk yards go by a different number which is the number stamped on the ECU box itself. Its a nine digit letter and number ID stamp. In my case
that number is A56-T63-ZP4. I belive most of the time it is going to begin with A56 then the remaining numbers differ. If you buy the replacement from a junk yard then try to get that number to match your ECU in your car. That the best advice I can offer for now.