thebreadman

I just ordered an Edlemann from rockauto.com. Shipping included less than $90.00. Talked to sales and he assured me it was new. They also have Gates. Will let you know how it goes.

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

How come rockauto.com has three different Maximas listed for 2002?

3.0L 2960cc V6 MFI
3.5L 3498cc V6 FI [VQ35DE]
3.5L 3498cc V6 MFI [VG35DE]

Also, is the hose the same for all 2000-2003, because I remember searching for the part somewhere and it had a different hose for the SE and GLE.

thebreadman

I don't know. Most of the mechanical parts are listed under the middle one. Go to http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1956_1957.html. Lots of stuff but hose is the same on all. Or if that doesn't work www.courtesynissan.com.

kbohip

Crap. Just noticed some oil under my car today. Looked under the hood to find a drop in ps fluid and the hose going into the reservoir that attaches to the pump soaked in oil. I'm assuming this is the infamous pita high pressure hose? Looks like I know what I'll be doing next weekend.

kbohip

I'm interested to know how well the Edelman worked for you. I might try this one out myself.

knightsh

kbohip, what did you find wrong with yours? Mine is leaking very slowly from the bottom of the reservoir as well. High pressure hose is bone dry. Only the hose under the reservoir is wet, from the reservoir all the way to the pump. Nissan dealer and DaveB both say 99% of the time it's the high pressure hose. No one stocks the suction hose. I even started the car and had my wife turn the wheel from lock-to-lock and never saw anything. My level has not dropped noticeably in several weeks since I saw all the mess.

FanaticMadMax

mine is starting to leak i have 77k miles, the hose leaking from the P/S Resevoir, but not sure that's a high pressure cuz it has two clamp, one on the resevoir and a short hose connected to a steel hose going down under the firewall.

spock

iTrader: (5)

Mine had a minor leak @ the resevoir as well. I replaced the crappy factory clamp on the hose to resevoir connection with a stainless worm gear clamp. No more leak.

mandyfig

I have to replace mine, too. It is showing leakage from the reservoir! Gotta get the SS clamps on!

FanaticMadMax

First time i heard of worm gear clamp, where do you get them, i google it and i couldn't get any results.

kbohip

knight, sorry for the very late reply here. The strange thing is, mine seems to have the same problem as yours. After mine leaked for a day or two it has now completely stopped. I also had my wife start the car and turn the wheel lock to lock and never saw a leak anywhere. I guess now I'll just wait for it to burst.

RocketMAX

iTrader: (1)

Just had mine replaced at 92K miles for $390. Luckily my extended warranty paid for it.

Unklejoe

iTrader: (6)

A worm gear clamp is just a regular hose clamp. Next time you have a hose clamp in your hand, take a peek at the screw, it is a worm gear.

kbohip

Last week I took pressure washed the engine to try and figure out where this leak is coming from. It is indeed coming from the high pressure hose. I looked at that hose before but for some reason thought it was part of the A/C system. I noticed some oil way high on the strut tower so I pulled the foam covering down and saw that it was filled with oil. I'm going to buy the Edlemann replacement hose tomorrow. I need to get this fixed this week as I'm taking this car to Palm Springs (1,100 miles) on the 18th.




This was a very hard leak for me to find as the foam covers the actual leak. Mine is a very slow leak making it even harder to find. As you can see in the first photo there's very little telltale sign of a leak there until the foam is pulled down and it shows the actual hose soaked in oil.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

One of them (VG35DE) is the European market engine. If you hover your mouse cursor over that flag/box it'll say so. I thought that was strange when I first saw it.

Also, blah I *hope* my high pressure power steering hose has no issues. I do not want to replace it. Got 198,000 miles..

bigrza

this must be a common problem. have a 00' gle w/112k. have a pinhole so i'll be replacing hose soon

kbohip

EDIT: After installing my Edelmann hose I now have a buzzing/whining sound coming from the pump whenever I turn the wheel. It's the same sound the pump makes if the car is low on ps fluid. I've bled the system twice and even tried using Nissan's ps fluid but the noise continues. I can no longer recommend the Edelmann hose until I know there is not something wrong with the design of the hose itself.




Ok, so I ordered the Edelmann high pressure hose from Rock Auto. I was a bit reluctant as I couldn't find anyone else here on the forum that had installed it and left any feedback on it. Let's just say I'm happy as Hell right now that I did! I paid $77.70 plus $19.50 for 2 day shipping. I found a 5% off coupon that brought the price down about $4.00 from it's usual $81.79. Right around $97.00 delivered or $12.00 less if you go with regular ground shipping. I went for the 2 day shipping as I'm leaving town next week and I wanted the part installed for a while before driving the car almost 3,000 miles. Rock Auto shipped it the next day after I ordered it and it would've only been 1 more shipping day had I gone ground. Oh well.

Anyway it came in today while I was at work. I got home tonight around 7:30 and decided what the Hell, it's Wednesday night, my knuckles aren't bleeding, I'm going for it!

The Edelmann part looks quite a bit different than stock. First of all the entire hose is covered in a high quality heat resistant wrap from end to end. No crappy foam here. There is no connectors in the middle like the stock hose, the Edelmann is a 1 piece hose. It's made in Mexico but I can see that it seems to be a very high quality product judging by the excellent welds on the strut tower connector end.

This part does not include a new sensor like the stock one seems to. (Some one correct me here if I'm wrong). It also does not include a new banjo bolt. I don't know if the stock part comes with a new bolt though. It does include two new copper washers for the banjo bolt though. Since the Edelmann is all one piece and completely covered in heat wrap, I found it too hard to try and put the middle bracket connector around it. I just used a zip tie instead and it works great.

I found this job to be pretty easy and quick to do. I got the old part off in maybe 20 minutes and had the new one on in around 30 minutes. Let's just say if I paid the dealer $400 to do this knowing what I know now I'd be pissed. The total job took me around 90 minutes including jacking the car up and cleaning up afterward.

I was dreading the lower 24mm banjo bolt after reading this thread but it wasn't too bad at all. The only thing that sucked was trying to keep the copper washer from falling off the end and trying to position the bolt so it wouldn't go in cross threaded at the same time. Still, it only took me 5 minutes to get right. It was the first bolt I put in when installing the new hose. I did remove the passenger side wheel to give me some more room though.

Tools I used:

24mm socket attached to 1/2" wrench for banjo bolt.
10mm socket for middle bolt on stock hose and strut tower bolts
A pair of Vise grips for removing sensor from old hose end
A 14mm wrench for the line that connects to the hose connector at the strut tower.
A lot of paper towels!

I would say the worst part of this job was all the oil leaking all over the underside of the car (and over me!). Below are some pics I took after I had installed the new part.

Here is what the Edlemann looks like from up top. You can see that I'm using the original sensor here. Personally, I like all the shiny new heat wrap in my engine bay.


This picture is looking down. I'm trying to show that this hose doesn't use the stock bracket. I ended up using a zip tie to tie this hose to the stock bracket later on but honestly I don't see any need to. The hose doesn't rub against anything from what I can see.


This picture is looking up from underneath the car. You can clearly see the infamous banjo bolt at the bottom of the pic. One thing I want to add here. Make sure that heat wrap from the other ps hose doesn't get caught up underneath the banjo bolt assembly when you're tightening it down. I could easily see this happening and causing a BIG leak when the car is started! At the top left you can see where the stock hose bracket that is unused with this hose. I chose not to use the bracket as I think it would do more harm than good by crushing the heat wrap against the hose. I later used a simple zip tie here instead.


This picture shows the hose coming from the bottom of the ps fluid reservoir at the right. Mine was leaking here good enough that the fluid had made it all the way down the hose and had soaked the ps pump at the bottom of the car. I took off the stock clamp and put on a better worm drive clamp. I'm hoping this cures this leak. If it doesn't I'll post back here.


Anyway I hope this helps anyone out there who has this problem in the future. Don't be scared of the Edelmann! I personally would rather have it installed than the stock part. The fact that it can be had for half the price than stock doesn't hurt either. The part number at Rock Auto is 92037.

TNseguy

Thanks for all the advise guys. I had to replace mine at 131K,

a33_ridah

iTrader: (10)

just got mine replaced on my 00 gxe with 140k by a buddy.
somehow the previous owner swapped 03 assembly into the 2000...so i ended up buying a 03 part again

thebreadman

Oops, forgot to do this. No leaks with the Edelmann hose since I put it on. Kudos to the guy that elongated the clamp. I did the same thing. Got a bolt about two inches long, put everything together and still had room to slide the insulator around the hose. I'd say this is about a one hour job doing it this way. Anyone that tries to put the short bolt back has a lot more patience than I do. Common wrenches/sockets are all you need.

kbohip

Well I've driven a few thousand miles with my Eldelmann hose and all is not good. I'm getting a whining from the ps pump, the same whine you usually hear when the ps fluid is low. It's done this since the day I put the hose on so this is not a new problem. The steering feels the same as it always did with the original hose and there are no leaks anywhere. I figured I just had air in the lines or a similar problem so I flushed it out again. I drained all the fluid out via the banjo bolt on the bottom and added fluid again. I turned the wheel back and forth about 20 times when the engine was off to hopefully bleed out all of the air but I still get the whining.

Now I'm wondering if it's something I did wrong or if there's a problem with the Edelmann hose. As of now I can't recommend this aftermarket hose until I know for sure it's not the source of the whine. I'm hoping it's just something I didn't do right although I really can't see how I could've done anything differently.

Love_00_Max

I have a leak on end of the larger hose which could be 1/2" hose that connects to the pump (larger of the hoses coming from the PS reserviour to the pump). I could just buy this from any store and replace it right.

arima

had my hose replaced today, the shop used an Eldelmann hose. They charged me $260 complete. I'll update on any issues.

arima

off topic but can I just hose off the power steering fluid all over that area?

rchap417

My SE has 98k. Suggest reading most posts, esp. ones with pictures, esp.
latest 2010 ones. Taking off about an hour once you locate hose and bolts
(see pictures in forum)
and putting on about 1.5. because of difficulty getting banjo lined up
and reconnecting center bracket plate and screw.(I used tie wraps-
works perfectly). Attached upper bracket loosely then, let hose drop down,
attached banjo then center, then tightened top.
I used 10mm open ended wrench for flange nut, 10mm socket wrench for
2 bolts on upper connection, 1 bolt screw on middle connection, 24mm
socket with long handle for banjo, bottom connection.
Used turkey baster to which I attached long straw with clear box tape to
drain reservoir and quart plastic milk container for old fluid.
Also used alum baking pan for oil drain pan below banjo nut.
Of course plenty of paper towels for excess oil on hose.
Emptied reservoir first using improvised turkey baster.
Disconnected top flange first, other 2 holding bolts at top, pulled out
sensor plug, pulled back and after cleaning upper hose under insulation(
leaking fluid) ,disconnected center screw(center bracket) and then went for the banjo nut after jacking car up with Nissan jack and using standard jack stand on right side. Once removed tire able to reach banjo behind wheel well with 24mm socket and long handle. Be sure to place oil pan under the banjo nut.
Your hands will get dirty and fluid will leak after you place hose
on ground.(use paper or something else under hose).
Once disconnected took my hose to Pirtek, a national firm that repairs hydraulic hoses. They can do if metal ends are not damaged.
Their website is http://www.pirtekusa.com/. If in Southern Cali and near Commerce can talk to Mgr. Ramiro Galvez. Cost about 48 bucks and repaired in about 30 minutes in-house. Cannot do from mobile truck.
Very clean shop with friendly, knowledgeable staff. Say they do all the time because of cost or replacement hoses(see forum). Hose is better than original because braided on outside and steel braided on inside.
I suspect other nationwide shops are the same. Very pleased with work
and cost.
Putting back on by loosely attaching upper bracket bolts then
drooping hose in position, lining up lower banjo bolt and screwing in(hard),
then loosening upper bracket bolts, folding back top part of hose then
connecting center bracket screw(I used tie wraps), then reconnecting
upper bracket bolts, flange nut and sensor plug.
Fill reservoir to cold max, turn car on and turn wheel from stop to stop
slowly several times and check reservoir. B sure to fill to cold max.
Be sure to check for leaks esp. at banjo before replacing tire and lowering car.
Heard some noise(air in system) Local master mechanic sez takes about
500 miles to work out whenever change pump or hose.
Good Luck and try to repair if you can. U'll save bucks.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Sadly I have to +1 this incident. While working to replace bank 1 pre-cat we kept bumping the high pressure power steering hose enough to finally make it break and leak.

So off to a parts store (on Sunday) that had the part in stock, got the hose installed and off I go. Must mention here I had to use ATF instead of power steering fluid.

I probably did 150 miles after the hose swap and started to get the power steering pump buzzing. WTF?

So I pick up Nissan Power Steering fluid, pull the hose to the resevoir, drain and add Nissan Power Steering fluid. OK job done, no more buzzing.

Wrong, it's still buzzing but I must say not as bad as before. I'm going to pick up some hand soap pump to pump the fluid out and add more nissan power steering fluid to see if that does anything.

kbohip

I've now driven over 5,000 miles already with the Edelmann hose installed. It's still buzzing (makes a sound like a car that's low on ps fluid). It pisses me off every time I hear it, but at this point I don't know what to do. Is it the aftermarket hose making the noise? Did I not get all of the air bled out? All I do know is that my Max now sounds like a 1978 Grand Marquis that's low on ps fluid. At least it doesn't leak anymore!

RR5

iTrader: (6)

The FSM swears up and down about running the air bleed procedure if the pump makes buzzing sounds. My tiny floor jack barely gets the front end up high enough to get the front wheels to clear the ground.

Once I get more nissan power steering fluid added I'll check back with an update here.

boris

with the pump buzzing started right after the the new hose got in (done by the specialized shop). Of course, they refuse to consent with it. I use the ATF, as the owner manual states. The air bleeding doesn't help

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Hmm perhaps picking up a junkyard nissan power steering hose might stop that buzzing noise?

levellkinchen

Thanks for all the details on the PS replacement. I've gone thru 2 bottles of LUCAS powersteering fluid. It is suppose to stop it from leaking... yeah right! I have a 2001 Infiniti I30. Should i buy the HP PS hose from Nissan or can i get it at Orilley's? What are your thoughts.

life-rocks

2000 SE with 240,000 miles. Going to replace this Hose this weekend. It has been leaking for a Month (I know I'm Slacking).

dtp308

iTrader: (3)

Saw a leak on garage floor, lo and behold power steering hose is leaking, probably won't get to it for a week or so but will post after I replace it. (Rescued) 2k2 SE with 145k.

bmech211

DAMN, wish I'd read this before ordering this line from Rock Auto

Anyway, being an aircraft mechanic by trade (hydraulics none the less) it sounds like the line is restricting the flow of fluid to the pump. It could actually be a number of things e.g. wrong inner diameter of the line itself, the welded-up sensor b-nut/bracket, or the banjo fitting may not be the right size (thickness) causing the bolt to somehow partially block off the outlet when tightened down.

Unfortunately I may have to contend with this nuisance problem if occurs, seeing as how there are 2 HUGE dry puddles of fluid right at the bottom of my driveway from turning sharply.

boris

These are very reasonable explanations, but in my case, the steering wheel strangely moves alot easier after the hose replacement, than before the leak started. If the line is restricted, shouldn't it all be on the contrary?

intoran

+1 on buzzing from autozone hose. Didn't use ATF at first so flushed and replaced with Mobil 1 ATF. Buzzing may have decreased but is still there at startup and sometime during low speed turning. What's the consensus on this? Replace hose with Nissan part or live with the buzzing. If it's not hurting the pump I'll live with it, it's not that bad.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

2002-2003 Power steering hose from Courtseyparts.com is $152.

Link: http://www.courtesyparts.com/49720-h...957_2061_2069&

I believe a quick stop to a local dealer is in order to get a price then a call to DaveB to get another price.

Someone who used an aftermarket power steering hose might have to pick up the Nissan part and see if that stops the buzzing. I really hope there is nothing bad happening to the power steering pump with this aftermarket power steering hose.

03VIPMAX

iTrader: (3)

ive done two of these kragen matches parts and theres is the cheapest like 119 i think. i did it for a fellow org member
06-06-2010 07:46 PM a33_ridah and i did it on my car super easy for me since i know how to get it easy and know what and where the screws are and which need to come off. hit me up if u need someone to change it for u. im in socal Covina 626-393-4513

kbohip

I don't intend (read can't afford) to pick up the Nissan hose and replace the Edelmann hose. I've driven at least 6k miles so far and just live with the buzzing noise. The steering effort to me is unchanged from the original Nissan hose, whether it is during cold weather or hot weather. I haven't noticed an increase in heat from the ps fluid either. Still, that buzzing noise concerns me as to what the effects to the pump itself will be in the long run. Only time and mileage will tell and I will find out.

I will probably change the fluid out to synthetic in an effort to curb any future problems. I'm hoping that might quiet things down a bit too. I'll report back here if I find that it helps at all.

bmech211

intoran,

I can also confirm the same symptoms. Little buzzing during start-up and low speed turning. However, it seems to subside a little once the fluid heats up. All and all, I can live with it. I'm definitely leaning toward the cause of this as being the internal dimension of the aftermarket line being smaller than the OEM part (hence the cheaper price).

Also, FYI for anyone else doing this remove/install:
- When installing the new line the first connection you should make is the banjo fitting to the pump. There is no chamfer on the pump so it's EXTREMELY difficult to get the bolt started. This is compounded more-so if you've got everything bolted down up top, making it difficult to maneuver the line into position at the bottom. Can't even count on both hands how many times I dropped the "F" bomb