Well I got the grounding kit installed. All went well except for the alternator's grounding point wouldnt come loose! Everything Else went fine and is ziptied in including the alternator wire too its just not bolted down atm.
So the problem is...after spraying and...knocking ...the structure that the bolt goes into is starting to bend. And IMO thats not somthing you want to break off. Have a look.

Please note I do have the new wire in place but with the existing nut beyond the connection. My thoughts were just placing a 2nd nut ontop of the new wire and above the existing nut and wire. (Not sure if will perform as well as one nut...but it is just metal on metal and essentially using the same bolt.)

Is there a way I get this stubborn nut off with out breaking the structure it bolts into?
TIA

BTW Im guessing the alternate ground point will help with windows, start up, lights, and running sounds..
I did drive her and notice the low rpm torque and improved rpm bands

 

I remember that grounding point in my 00... Huge PITA. I would try to use 2 hands, if possible: one with a pair of pliers holding the bracket in place, and the other to unscrew the nut. If that still won't work, then another nut on top of the old one will be your best bet. You're correct in that the contact path won't be as clear if you could've gotten the old nut off.

 

YEAH, i agree it was the biggest PITA ever. I did the 2 hand meathod. It broke loose after like 10 min.

 

i had the same problem a week ago, almost broke the thing off but made myself stop....i ended up getting another nut and securing the wire to the top of the old one...prob not the better option but it worked fine for me

 

A nut on top is better than a broken bracket. You can bring it to someone who has Oxygen/Acetylene torches and have them heat the nut and cool in down with water as fast as possible if that don't work you can try removing it when it is hot. Care has to be taken so you don't burn anything that you don't want burned.

 

Thanks yawl. I will attempt it some more today. Though I tried holding it back, but it just wanst enough support againsts a turning wrench. I guess I'll have my mech take a stab with other methods. Id rather get it installed properly than a bolt on bolt action.

 

prophecy99....when you said you've sprayed, do you mean pb blaster? I assume you do...its just that I've had similar situations before where I used other catalysts and sure enough once I used pb things would work out...also, i agree that piggy-backing another nut is better than nothing. Check the resistance from the top of that bolt with a multimeter and see what you can figure out. Good luck!

 

erm, im new to this site, but does anyone have a diagram for the best grounding points for the kit, or am i a**ed out and have ta figure it out all by myself?

 

yes and no, you can figure it out easily by yourself by searching and studying information on the grounding points provided by others, and obviously if you buy a "premade" kit it will have Directions on installing it.

 

how many grounding points do you have?

 

id love to make my own custom kit
does any1 kknow where to get a diagram for 5th gen?
did yours come with 1 that i could um "borrow"?? lol (scan fax digipics etc)

stuck fastners:
the best thing ive ever used in my career as a mechanic is a product called aerokroil (aside from heat) http://www.kanolabs.com/
it makes wd40, pb blaster, and liquid wrench look like water
my friend who is a marine mechanic recommended it to me years ago
his quote "itll free up bolts that were in boats sunk in salt water for a year"
i was sold
its about triple the price of wd40
but its a standard supply at my shop ever since
we havnt bought liquid wrench in 5 years

 

Ground it to something else? I don't think its such a biggie or a necessity that you mess with that ground.

 

im gonna make this myself and use the ground points in the manual as my guide
ill take pics and post em when im done

 

i...havent experienced all of the results? windows still dim interior lights, change idol
and..start ups are the same, and running engine not much quiter?
what else would you suggest I could ground too?
I would think the alternator ground would be something worthy of gettin to.

 

i was lookin at the grounding schematic in the manual
in the original wiring the alternator ground (it doesnt actually ground the alternator its just located above it) is the only point that the engine is grounded to the chassis
no components are grounded at this point either
on top of that (after i looked at it on my car) it is at the very end of what is basically 2 brackets made of sheet metal (why it bent do easy), spot welded together (to make longer), and bolted to the block
i could see corrosion making a ground issue with this design
you shouldnt even have to worry about touching it since the other grounds to frame (after installing the kit) basically bypass it
you can try using the threaded hole right there (on the head) that is unused but its close to that v/c gasket

here get up close and personal with mine