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speed sensitive clunking from suspension?

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Old 10-08-2007, 06:25 AM
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speed sensitive clunking from suspension?

On slowing to a stop, I get a speed sensitive clunking sound from my drivers front side.

I don't believe it is related to the brakes since I just had new pads installed and had them checked.

I don't think it is a cv joint because I recently installed new raxles.

That leaves the suspension - any ideas?
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Old 10-15-2007, 07:51 PM
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that leaves wheel bearings...lift the vehicle and see if you can move the wheel from side to side and top to bottom. if there is freeplay, hello wheel bearing replacement.
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Old 10-15-2007, 08:04 PM
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Check the wheel bearing/drive axle nut(s) for having the correct torque. It should be torqued to 188 - 245 ft/lbs. It's REAL important.
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Old 10-16-2007, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt_01SE_20th
that leaves wheel bearings...lift the vehicle and see if you can move the wheel from side to side and top to bottom. if there is freeplay, hello wheel bearing replacement.
Don't think it is wheel bearings . . . . I had them replaced recently. But will check anyway.
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by P. Samson
Check the wheel bearing/drive axle nut(s) for having the correct torque. It should be torqued to 188 - 245 ft/lbs. It's REAL important.
I've got new raxles on both sides in the front along with new wheel bearings. So I hope it isn't that. But I'll check it.

In any event, the sound seems to be coming from the suspension area. I'm going to be replacing the strust and springs all around this weekend - if I can get the eibach springs I ordered. So will have a better idea after that.

But I agree with the thought that if it is speed sensitive, it must involve moving parts.
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:04 AM
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Did you order new strut mounts to go with the new springs and struts?

If not, I would.
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by upstatemax
Did you order new strut mounts to go with the new springs and struts?

If not, I would.
Thanks for the tip. I did pick up mounts and bearings from my local napa.

My mounts *seem* to be fine - but I know they'll die when I take them apart. I learned that from working on my 96.

That's actually where I thought the clunking was coming from - but they appear to be intact.
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:43 AM
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how long does it take on the 6th gens for the cv joints to go bad?...

and if i wanted to inspect a car before buying, am i able to tell if its needs help through the naked eye?
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Old 10-16-2007, 02:03 PM
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By the way upstate, that's nice shepherd. Reminds me ALOT of one I had as a child.
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Old 10-16-2007, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Max_Gator
By the way upstate, that's nice shepherd. Reminds me ALOT of one I had as a child.
It's our baby...

4.5 months old and crazy.
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Old 10-16-2007, 04:25 PM
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it could be the break line is not clamped into the actual spot on the srut, you would def hear rattling then, this happened on my 02 when i repaced the struts to tokico blues
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Old 10-16-2007, 05:22 PM
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Dont let this fool you...our bearings can fail in less than a mile if the conditions are right. MAKE SURE THAT THE AXLE NUT IS TORQUED DOWN. If the bearing looses preload all you have to do is take a turn and you will brinell the races, bye-bye bearing. Also, make sure that whoever replaced the bearings also replaced the axle nuts. The high torque requirement yields the nut and they NEED to be replaced, i made this mistake before.

Originally Posted by Max_Gator
Don't think it is wheel bearings . . . . I had them replaced recently. But will check anyway.
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Old 10-17-2007, 02:09 PM
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I'll check it tonight. I'm certain they didn't use the old nut - it had to be cut off because it got cross threaded somehow.

A quick question - if the nut needs to be torqued, I would lift the car slightly and then torque rather than leave it on the ground, right?

Thanks.
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Old 10-17-2007, 03:35 PM
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For your safety have the car on the ground when you do the final torquing. If you've got the stock SE wheels, pop off the center plastic wheel cover, but use the tire (blocked) on the ground for the countertorque. This is BIG torque.......the car is going to try to move. Otherwise you have to "jam" a bar in the brake rotor. The idea is not to allow the driveshaft to "windup".
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Old 10-23-2007, 12:48 PM
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Had the same problem...replaced strut (90K miles) and no more noise.
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