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There is no standard answer to your question. YOU need to know how much electrical current your audio system uses and that will give you a starting point.
The stock alternator is 110 amps. It is more than enough for the way Nissan builds the car. But when you change things and increase the current demand, you may end up using all the extra capabilities of the stock alternator. I don't know how much extra current is available, but I bet it isn't that much.
If you have to replace the alternator, there are more powerful versions available. But the price goes crazy high to go over 200 amps. So you need to know what the requirements of your audio system are. Autozone has a new 125 amp alternator that is less than $5 more than the 110 amp re-built. This may be just fine for you.
In general, when you are idling, the alternator is not producing maximum power. It is maybe 70% of maximum when idling. You may see the lights dim in time with the subwoofer beats. If the electrical system isn't too over-loaded, you can probably install capacitors to take care of this.
There is no standard answer to your question. YOU need to know how much electrical current your audio system uses and that will give you a starting point.
The stock alternator is 110 amps. It is more than enough for the way Nissan builds the car. But when you change things and increase the current demand, you may end up using all the extra capabilities of the stock alternator. I don't know how much extra current is available, but I bet it isn't that much.
If you have to replace the alternator, there are more powerful versions available. But the price goes crazy high to go over 200 amps. So you need to know what the requirements of your audio system are. Autozone has a new 125 amp alternator that is less than $5 more than the 110 amp re-built. This may be just fine for you.
In general, when you are idling, the alternator is not producing maximum power. It is maybe 70% of maximum when idling. You may see the lights dim in time with the subwoofer beats. If the electrical system isn't too over-loaded, you can probably install capacitors to take care of this.
Just tried this job. 02 Maxima. Okay so I didn't finish. Super frustrated. First of all. When I took the Idler pully off, there was no bolt holding my Alternator in place. (got it replaced w/ a used one a couple months ago). I struggled with the 12 mm neg nut w/ the rubber boot. finally got that off.
Then I realized...wtf O_O my Alternator bracket was broken off. Not the part with the bolt from the alternator, the Square one that's supposed to be attached and welded. You can see the top of the screw. (was so pissed didn't think to take pics) Im pretty sure the bracket couldn't take the weight of the alternator and just broke off all this time after replacement.)
So then I am like okay I have no idea how im going to get the last alternator bolt off the backet(removable) so I said forget it let me take the Compressor off at least. I get the two left bolts loose, easy. Then I try the two on the right, they seem to be stripped. No clue how im going to get those 2 14mm off. Most of the tools I have are 12 point box end wrenches and sockets. However I do have some 6 point impact sockets that seem to grip better with these more rounded bolts. I'm going to find a new alternator main bolt. What exact bolt do i need to buy? Can anyone help me or give me tips with this moving forward? It's really really stressing me out Im so close to finishing but im damn near ready to give up, no lie. Spent my entire day just to put the wheel back on and not have the car running.
Last edited by NYTooCooL; Feb 20, 2014 at 06:46 PM.
Pn#23200 thru bolt
reassemble the ac screws.... and remove fans or radiator to allow the alt to come out,replace...then button everything up double check everywhere and be patient ,then drive to get tools to remove the striped ac bots or pay someone.
Last edited by nestorlugo; Feb 20, 2014 at 08:23 PM.
Anyone any advice on house to get those two ac compressor bolts off? BTW my ac compressor looks different from everybody else's. Ill try to take pics. I think a regular like impact or 6 point socket might work, but still need a back up.
Finished it last week. 5.5's are the same process as the 5th gens. I don't advise using a 12 point socket/ratchet to do this job. Use a 6 point. Also, the neg battery terminal 12mm was a pain for me. Also the alternator bracket bolt is kind of a pain to get off. You have to kind of be creative with that. However my friend helped me and unhooked the clips and wires to get that out. Can't remember right now. However honestly, coming from a person with just average experience working on my Maxima. This job really isn't hard at all. Just patience and the right tools. 10mm-14 mm is really all you NEED. We let my AC Compressor hang down when doing mine. May be not ideal but it didn't damage anything. Also noted that the 5.5 AC Compressor looks different. Honestly if it wasn't for stubborn bolts giving me a hard time, I think anybody can do this in an hour without having to deal with stubborn bolts.
I hate to post on an old thread, but I just had to say a big THANKS to everyone here. I found out my alternator is bad this past weekend, during Coast Guard Festival (ugh). I was a bit hesitant at first about doing it myself until I found this awesome thread. The garage wanted to charge me $450 for the job, but then I found a alternator for $150 at the parts store when I went in to have them test my battery (it passed). I figure to buy the alternator from them and do this myself.
My only concern is that I don't have a cement driveway for hoisting the car up on (just hard gravel/dirt and grass). I'm thinking I could use a big thick piece of plywood, but I'm not sure if that would be a wise idea. Also, the ground wire attached to the top bracket are both pretty rusty. I've soaked that thing with PB Blast, but it's on there pretty good and the bracket bends when I'm trying to turn the bolt.
Just take the whole bracket off if having an issue taking off the bolt on the car. Much easier that way if i can remember correctly. Been a while since i replaced mine or had any come into the shop.
Also about the whole ply wood thing that sounds iffy. See if you can find a large patio stone or something of the sort. Unless the plywood your talking about is 3/4 thick, or a better idea would be run out to the parts store and pick up some ramps. One of the best investments ever.
Just for jacking the car up? I'd just do it on the gravel.
Jacking up a car and getting under it is potentially lethal. I like to make sure it isn't coming back down on me.
Gravel moves, driveway is probably on a bigger incline than cement would be, and it has got to suck ***** to work on, even if you put down some cardboard or plywood. I'm just imagining the jack and stands sinking or becoming uneven.
But if I was going to do it, I think I would get a full sheet of thick plywood - say 3/4" - put it sideways under the car to put the jack stands on so they don't sink or become uneven when you put the vehicle down. I would use a full 4x8 sheet to spread the load. You could probably add another sheet parallel to the vehicle at the front to put the jack itself on.
Chock those wheels very well, put tire under car and make sure ebake is tightly engaged.
Just take the whole bracket off if having an issue taking off the bolt on the car. Much easier that way if i can remember correctly. Been a while since i replaced mine or had any come into the shop.
Also about the whole ply wood thing that sounds iffy. See if you can find a large patio stone or something of the sort. Unless the plywood your talking about is 3/4 thick, or a better idea would be run out to the parts store and pick up some ramps. One of the best investments ever.
I don't know that I'd trust ramps on gravel but again use plywood if so.
I am having a really frustrating time with my 2001 Maxima SE AE and I'm hoping someone in this thread has encountered this.
I just replaced the alternator with a reman from AAP (transverse motors not even once). I did have the alt "bench tested" before I put it in although I know it isn't worth much. Now on acceleration the battery and brake lights get really bright (Nissan's sign for alternator issues).
The tech at AAP checked the voltage across the battery cold, at idle, and revved. Something like 13, 13.8, and 14.4 I believe. So that seems to check out.
However on the way home the lights are still lighting up and if I turn on the A/C or radio they flash quickly. No engine light or codes thrown.
What should I look for before I get down there and pull the whole belt and alt off again? Check the voltage coming from the alternator? Replace any alt fuses? Test the ground on the alt (not sure how to do this)? Really at a loss here.
I'd make sure the plastic plug going in the side of the alternator is connected, the connections are good. If need be, get a new connector - it's a short piece, and not that expensive from Nissan.
Then I'd make sure the positive current wire from the alternator is in good shape, and that that connection is good.
I'd make sure the plastic plug going in the side of the alternator is connected, the connections are good. If need be, get a new connector - it's a short piece, and not that expensive from Nissan.
Then I'd make sure the positive current wire from the alternator is in good shape, and that that connection is good.
Same for battery cables, and battery ground.
Hey thanks for the response.
I actually did check the plug and ground but both seemed in pretty good condition to me. However I do have an update before I get down and pull that alt off:
I picked up a multimeter and the battery is runnning right at 14.3V at idle. But this is the weird part...
With the car idling as soon as I start turning on things (a/c, lights, radio) the voltage across the battery drops like a rock. 14...13... by 12 I shut everything off to get back above 14.
I'm guessing for some reason the alternator can't keep up with the extra load? Or does this indicate a problem with the battery itself?
Hey guys, I'm new to this forum as I'm trying to replace my mother's alternator in her 02 maxima GLE and I've read through this entire thread to see 1 person mention their ac compressor is different than others & I think this 1 fits under that category(pics below). My question is what other bolts am I supposed to take off here? It also looks like there's a connector at the top of the AC compressor, and it doesn't seem like there will be enough slack after to get the alt out from below the car..is this 1 of those situations where I've got to remove the fan and/or radiator to replace alt? Sorry if this is a horrible question but I have done research and every other ac compressor looks different than this 1 and I don't want to ruin her car. I've already determined the alt is bad by testing. The car turned off on me during a drive on the freeway (engine and radio etc stayed on, but giving gas was like being in neutral). Any experienced info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys.
Only 1 bottom bolt to the left on ac comp & you can also see the electrical plug at the top
So if I need to remove the radiator anyway, would I also need to unbolt the compressor to access any of the bolts/connectors in order to remove the alternator?
It looks like the alternator could be easily removed from the top if the radiator was already out.
So if I need to remove the radiator anyway, would I also need to unbolt the compressor to access any of the bolts/connectors in order to remove the alternator? It looks like the alternator could be easily removed from the top if the radiator was already out. 03 w/ 130k
You can pull it out like that but why not just remove it from bottom? Just pull it out where the passenger side tire would be. It's easy that way. Yes you need to get the ac compressor out of the way regardless of what way it comes out. The bottom bolt on the alternator is only accessible when you get the ac compressor out of the way. You can just remove the four mounting bolts for the compressor then move it out of the way. That's as far as you need to go though just support it with a zip tie or whatever no need to remove any lines or anything like that.
You can pull it out like that but why not just remove it from bottom? Just pull it out where the passenger side tire would be. It's easy that way. Yes you need to get the ac compressor out of the way regardless of what way it comes out. The bottom bolt on the alternator is only accessible when you get the ac compressor out of the way. You can just remove the four mounting bolts for the compressor then move it out of the way. That's as far as you need to go though just support it with a zip tie or whatever no need to remove any lines or anything like that.
I know with the fat as$ front pretty cat the bolt might be hard to access but if you don't have bear claws you can get in there with a 14mm wrench! But it's a pita more so than with the fed spec!
You can pull it out like that but why not just remove it from bottom?
My thinking was that if I don't absolutely have to disrupt the compressor, I would rather leave it alone (one less system to potentially damage with my clumsyness). But I am hearing that the bottom alternator bolt is blocked by the compressor.
Too bad the FSM doesn't provide the correct removal procedure!
My thinking was that if I don't absolutely have to disrupt the compressor, I would rather leave it alone (one less system to potentially damage with my clumsyness). But I am hearing that the bottom alternator bolt is blocked by the compressor. Too bad the FSM doesn't provide the correct removal procedure!
Like others have said, go through from underneath. It's easy and don't worry about damaging your compressor as your just moving it slightly out of the way. Once your done you'll find yourself lamenting that it wasn't that hard and complicated of a job a after all.
My thinking was that if I don't absolutely have to disrupt the compressor, I would rather leave it alone (one less system to potentially damage with my clumsyness). But I am hearing that the bottom alternator bolt is blocked by the compressor. Too bad the FSM doesn't provide the correct removal procedure!
Yes that's the problem the bottom bolt is why you have to remove the ac compressor.
Great write-up...thanks! Out of curiosity, how many miles are on the car? Both my 4th Gen Maxima and 5th Gen-equivalent I30t have in excess of 100K and I'm kind-of expecting something like this to go.
Mine on my 03 went at about 120,000. Had no indication it was about to go.
Car just quit on me.
Thanks for the input everyone! I am now prepared for the install (from underneath), but may have fixed or deferred the problem. I cleaned the grounds on top of transaxle and directly behind battery and no battery+brake lights on the initial long drive. I also used a cig lighter mounted voltmeter to monitor during the drive and the voltage was consistently in the 13.7 to 14.3 range depending on load and heat soak.
Even if this isn't the actual fix, at least I am noticing a smoother idle which had become a little rough (with the AC on) for the past 10k miles.
Hey, was just wondering Is there a chance the alternator can be adjusted? I recently bought a 2003 nissan maxima and when to repace the belt because the engine was squeaking from start till I shut it off. Now that I have changed the belt for an exact one it sqeals louder and I have the tention pull maxed out and the belt is still loose. I've think the last person to replace the alternator plasted it to close but I want to pay someone or do the full disassembly if i can adjust it with one bolt.
Just did this one....about 2.5 hours..had to move the A/C compressor out of the way for sure. One of the bolts for the compressor is kind of hard to get to. Not bad....5/10 on the difficulty scale.
No it cant be adjusted! Its in a fixed position.
There is a bracket that attaches to the alternator on one end then to the inner timing chain case on the other.
The pivot bolt is tightened.
So the upper bracket holds the thing from pivoting.
I just swapped the alternator in my 03. Was a absolute nightmare due to a corroded idler pulley bolt!! had to cut the pulley in half with a torch, then unbolt the 3 bracket bolts from the engine. 2 days of swearing and a car that was crippled. Once the pulley and belt is off as others stated just move the AC out of the way and the old alternator squeezes out from below.
Most people forget or don't know to loosen up the tensioner pulley lock nut "before" loosening the main tensioner adjuster nut and that imo is why many are already stripped so often. Myself' I sprayed adjuster nut/rod with knocker loose, let it set about 10 minutes and it turned like butter. I can imagine cars up north in or near the the salt belt these adjuster nut/rod just corrodes up so bad it seizes tighter than a frogs **** no doubt. Maybe some anti seize or grease at minimum on it to help combat this issue upon reinstalling? Luckily I live well below that line, but rusting everything up must really suck.
Just to follow up, ended up having my OEM alt rebuilt at a well respected local re-build shop that uses WAI/Transpo parts.
1st iteration (131k): new bearings, regulator, rectifier/diodes
2nd iteration (135k): new rotor (they said this is very rare)
So, I am getting good at alternator R&R haha. The hardest part for me was unplugging the AC connector!
=========
"The hardest part for me was unplugging the AC connector!"
YES!!!
Best tool set I ever bought for removing/installing these ignorant and most aggravating Nissan connectors, hoses, wires, plug wires, plug boots, holding nuts you name it, they'll help you, it's a set of these at Harbor Freight...
I assure you they'll pay for themselves with sheer lack of frustration & your time saved on the very first job. Absolutely one of my most used tools, the actual inventor is a true hero in my own mind.
fwiw...Thank you for making them whoever you are, I for one am very grateful!!
). But I am hearing that the bottom alternator bolt is blocked by the compressor. 
