Blown 02 Max Engine
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 127
Blown 02 Max Engine
Red lined car when shifting down to 4th gear Car died on highway Towed to shop. Car started and was drivable around the lot. Mechanic said hydraulic lifters were effected when red-lined. Mechanic changed oil saying that would bring back preassure to lifters.
Drove home could not get power beyond 2,500 RPM.
Brought back to Mechanic and pulled codes P0111 & P0112 for Intake Solenoids. Replaced both. Drove out the lot and car started blowing white smoke. Limped back Mechanic who then said Cat needed replacing. Bolted on new After-market Cat.
Car drove better except continued blowing smoke and would stall in 1st gear. Mechanic said smoke is from the new Cat and car needed to build pressure for the lifters. Felt car miss-firing while driving home.
Took off engine cover and saw oil all around valve cover under plenum. Noticed bolt was missing from the valve cover and gasket was pertruding. This was the probable cause for the intake solenoid codes. Mechanic fixed and said car was running bad, claims to have drained oil and found metal shavings. Latest diagnosis is when car red lined the timing chain tensioner broke and the motor is blown.
Car is home, continued to blow white smoke and I get a P0340 CAM Sensor code before it died. Drained oil and found no evidence of "metal' and car stalls when I attempt start. I do not see coolant in the oil or anything leaking on the ground either.
Car has 136k miles with oil changes ever 3k miles and no symptoms of anything before it died on the highway.
Help!
Bob
Drove home could not get power beyond 2,500 RPM.
Brought back to Mechanic and pulled codes P0111 & P0112 for Intake Solenoids. Replaced both. Drove out the lot and car started blowing white smoke. Limped back Mechanic who then said Cat needed replacing. Bolted on new After-market Cat.
Car drove better except continued blowing smoke and would stall in 1st gear. Mechanic said smoke is from the new Cat and car needed to build pressure for the lifters. Felt car miss-firing while driving home.
Took off engine cover and saw oil all around valve cover under plenum. Noticed bolt was missing from the valve cover and gasket was pertruding. This was the probable cause for the intake solenoid codes. Mechanic fixed and said car was running bad, claims to have drained oil and found metal shavings. Latest diagnosis is when car red lined the timing chain tensioner broke and the motor is blown.
Car is home, continued to blow white smoke and I get a P0340 CAM Sensor code before it died. Drained oil and found no evidence of "metal' and car stalls when I attempt start. I do not see coolant in the oil or anything leaking on the ground either.
Car has 136k miles with oil changes ever 3k miles and no symptoms of anything before it died on the highway.
Help!
Bob
wow that sucks, sorry about your car, but i just wanted to say it sounds like you have a really sh1tty mechanic and i wouldnt ever go back to him. Sounds like he is just pulling out diagnosis' out of his a$$. especially when he told you to put a new cat on.
..good luck with w/e u do
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,898
From: Philadelphia, PA
Wait, so, the OP has an extended rev-limiter on it? I'm kinda concerned, because on the highway, I get pretty close to redline occasionally. Can this happen to somebody with stock rev-limiter and internals?
another example, if your running speed is 10mph, you can't run faster than that, right? but if you jump off from a car doing 15mph and start to run, your running speed will be 15mph but you can't handle that speed, then you fall.
Yea your old mechanic was a moron. I also say the white smoke is a head gasket or possibily something else the guy ****ed up when he put the motor back together. Next step in this saga is to go find another mechanic have him verify the prev. mechanic's work then go about doing a compression check on the motor. Find out which repairs were utter bull**** and demand your money back from the previous mechanic.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,898
From: Philadelphia, PA
the rev-limiter only limits the gas which means if you put in 2nd and floor the car, the rev goes up until to the limiter kicks in. but if your doing 100mph and put in 2nd by mistake, the engin will be dragged over the rev limiter by speed not by gas.
another example, if your running speed is 10mph, you can't run faster than that, right? but if you jump off from a car doing 15mph and start to run, your running speed will be 15mph but you can't handle that speed, then you fall.
another example, if your running speed is 10mph, you can't run faster than that, right? but if you jump off from a car doing 15mph and start to run, your running speed will be 15mph but you can't handle that speed, then you fall.
to the OP: shifted down to 4th.. explain that more.. like u were going 130 in 6th and went down to 4th? or u were in 5th and went to 4th THEN brought it to a redline and thats where it crapped.. im knda confused.. the first example is understandable how u broke something the second not so much... g/l with everything and look into a new head gasket
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 127
I was doing maybe 95 mpg when I down shifted to 4th from 5th. Nothing crazy. I think it may be a blow head gasket but there is no coolent in the oil and the car never demonstrated any symptom before it died on the highway. Is there any one out there that has had a blown engine or head gasket that can share their experience? Does any have the procedure for resetting the ECU? Probably won't make a difference but I'd like to try.l
Bob
Bob
I was doing maybe 95 mpg when I down shifted to 4th from 5th. Nothing crazy. I think it may be a blow head gasket but there is no coolent in the oil and the car never demonstrated any symptom before it died on the highway. Is there any one out there that has had a blown engine or head gasket that can share their experience? Does any have the procedure for resetting the ECU? Probably won't make a difference but I'd like to try.l
Bob
Bob
it will tell you wat cylinders are dead and not holding. it will also tell you if there is valve damage and leaks. you need a compression tester to test. pull the spark plug out of each cylinder. install tester and have someone crank it over without starting, the tester will show how much pressure are in the cylinders. low compression can mean the piston rings are leaking, valves are leaking/burned. google compression test - it will tell you how to do it and all and what to look for. a quick way to check for blown head gasket is to remove the radiator cap and crank. if coolant blows out or you can hear/feel air coming out - then the head gasket is shot.
it will tell you wat cylinders are dead and not holding. it will also tell you if there is valve damage and leaks. you need a compression tester to test. pull the spark plug out of each cylinder. install tester and have someone crank it over without starting, the tester will show how much pressure are in the cylinders. low compression can mean the piston rings are leaking, valves are leaking/burned. google compression test - it will tell you how to do it and all and what to look for. a quick way to check for blown head gasket is to remove the radiator cap and crank. if coolant blows out or you can hear/feel air coming out - then the head gasket is shot.
- Normally you would block the throttle wide open, but I wouldn't recommend that on your DBW TB. Put it in gear and hold the throttle wide open.
- Hook up a battery charger
- Remove all plugs to do the test, not just one at a time
- Clear the fuel pressure, and keep the fuse for the pump out.
- Do one round dry, and a second round wet to determine rings vs valves, HG, etc
- Make sure to write down cylinder by cylinder your results, wet vs dry. Don't rely on your memory (might work okay for a VQ...tried it on a V10 once, confused the hell out of myself and had to do all the tests over again).
Other than that, spot on
indeed thats much cleaner than what i said hehe. try the radiator cap off and crank. air puffing out means cylinders are pushing air into cooling system and out the radiator fill hole. im not baller like pmohr haha
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2002
Posts: 127
Still not sure what wrong with the car but I price out an engine replacement and my options are a junkyard engine w/a 1 yr warranty for $3.400 or a re-man for $4.800 w/ a 5 yr warrranty. Can anyone reccomend some in the Danbury, CT areas who might be cheaper?
Bob
Bob
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 127
Great web-site! Still gotta find someone to put the engine in. In looking at the manual it does not seem too hard but I've never done an engine swap. Can anyone advise how difficult and how much time?
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks,
Bob
I know someone really good in the Dallas area, but I guess that doesn't help you much.
Typically, book time to R & R an engine is 10-12 hours so you are looking at $600 to maybe $1000 depending on the hourly rate.
Typically, book time to R & R an engine is 10-12 hours so you are looking at $600 to maybe $1000 depending on the hourly rate.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 127
UPDATE: A friend listened to my car and said it's a bad rod. To fix I gotta go through the oil pan. Also, looking at the oil I drained some 2 or so wks ago, I see a grey mud like substance around the magnet I put it. My friend says it is metal though one does not feel any chunks but it should not be a problem. I'd appreciate any comments anyone has on this.
Regards,
Bob
Regards,
Bob