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How to clean MAF under $10 w pics

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Old Feb 24, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #361  
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I cleaned mine this morning before work, I haven't noticed anything different... But the car is new to me so who knows. lol
Old Mar 3, 2011 | 03:06 PM
  #362  
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Cleaning it didn't work. It coughs, hesitates, goes in and out of failsafe mode about every other start, dies for no reason, and yesterday during freeway driving, it was dumping so much gas I could watch the needle go down. That was scary. All of this drama is punctuated by a few starts where it purrs like a kitten and drives like a dream, which is why I think it's the MAF again. The only thing I can find wrong with the car, via the OBD2 codes or from the symptoms, is a p100 code (MAF) or the p0138 code (which is a rear O2 sensor, but also fires when the MAF is bad).

I just bought a new MAF in October, but I bought it off eBay for cheap ($60+s&h) and maybe I got screwed on a second or whatever. Or maybe it's just bad luck. We've had extreme weather this winter (-16F degrees blowing into the air intake). Maybe that figures in somehow. I don't know. I'm just sick and tired of this.
Old Apr 27, 2011 | 06:32 PM
  #363  
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MAF Sensor Screws Rusty and Stripped...

OK..Trying to clean MAF Sensor on my 2002 SE JasonMax Style...ran into a problem right off the gate...The screws holding down the MAF are very rusty and they seem weak. Got the Torx#15 Screwdriver and the thing seems to be stripping the screw's grip...Tried spraying WD40 on the screws...no luck. Just replaced my air filter with K&N brand I hear so much about...just could not complete this MAF cleaning task...can anybody give this begginer DIY newbee a step by step alternative solution to cleaning the MAF Sensor....Thank You guys in advance.
Old Apr 27, 2011 | 07:12 PM
  #364  
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Are they security torx screws? I recall mine were (2000)
Old Apr 27, 2011 | 07:23 PM
  #365  
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Hey...Good one, but No..They do not have anything in the middle like the security torx...just rust residue.
Old May 17, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #366  
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Pictures not appearing

Hi,

I can't seem to see any of the pictures on this thread? Is there something additional I need to do? Please let me know. Thanks.

Regards,

E-Man.
Old May 17, 2011 | 12:23 PM
  #367  
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Originally Posted by E-Man
Hi,

I can't seem to see any of the pictures on this thread? Is there something additional I need to do? Please let me know. Thanks.

Regards,

E-Man.
Not that I'm aware of.

Your ISP sucks?


Clean the MAF:
1. A MAF has two air tunnels on it, so you have to clean both of them.
( red arrows show how air flows through the MAF)
Only 5.5th gen has this intake air temp sensor, 5th gen has seperated one.

2. Take you MAF cleaner and put the pipe on it, so you can reach small areas. When you clean the MAF, DO NOT touch anything in side the tunnel with the pipe because that can damage the sensor.

3. Keep blowing the cleaner for 2-3 seconds to each tunnel, and you can also clean the resistor at the same time. After cleaning the MAF, let it sit for 15 minutes to dry. I prefer to put it like this, so dust won't get in.


Reinstall:
When you put the MAF back, just make sure the air flow direction is correct, with two tunnels/holes facing to the air filter.


Relearn procedure:
After putting the MAF back to the car, perform the ECU reset and Idle relearn procedures.
Old May 19, 2011 | 07:37 AM
  #368  
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Hey NmexMax,

Thanks for the reply. Would it be possible to get a link for the pictures in the first couple of posts?

Thanks,

E-Man
Old May 19, 2011 | 08:42 AM
  #369  
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Originally Posted by sontakke
Are they security torx screws? I recall mine were (2000)
They are security torx screws.
Old May 22, 2011 | 12:23 PM
  #370  
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Thanks to all, especially OP. This worked wonders!
Old May 23, 2011 | 02:34 PM
  #371  
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Just a question. can a MAF cause the car to not start at all. i put a K&N replacement (not CAI) in and it acted funny while driving now doesnt start at all...
Old May 23, 2011 | 09:42 PM
  #372  
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Just a quick note. My torx screw was a t20. I had actually brought out a t15 and quickly noticed that it didnt fit quite right. That's when I went to a t20. My screws were extremely rusted and they still loosened right up with the proper driver.

Last edited by BfranchizeOG; May 23, 2011 at 10:32 PM.
Old Jun 1, 2011 | 07:25 AM
  #373  
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(2k2 6spd) I really don't know I messed wit it... the car was fine b4, now it hesitates between 2k n 3k... lol.
Old Jun 5, 2011 | 07:00 AM
  #374  
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I did this and it worked out grear....thanks!
Old Jun 14, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #375  
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First thanks to the OP for the excellent detailed write up.

My two cents on cleaning the MAF is that its not necessary unless you are experiencing problems. I cleaned mine in 05 or 06 and did not feel any benefit. By doing so, however, you do run the risk of killing the MAF.

Two questions on the procedure:
1. Is the point of disconnecting the battery so that the ECU can reset/re-learn the MAF calibration?
2. It is OK to spray the resistor, right?
Old Jul 15, 2011 | 08:36 PM
  #376  
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Great write up. I am doing this tomorrow. Noticed a few sluggish spots below 4k.
Old Aug 2, 2011 | 08:51 AM
  #377  
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awesome write up....did this about an hour ago...so far so good
Old Aug 30, 2011 | 05:58 PM
  #378  
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I am turning our extra car back into my daily driver. I read about this on other threads so figured it could only help. So far it seems like the rough idle is a little smoother. Will have to see tomorrow morning when it is cold how it idles.

There were only two parts that were somewhat difficult

1. Pulling the wiring harness off the MAF
2. Finding the cleaner in Autozone

The rest was easy!

I cannot believe what a difference this made in my car. Granted for the past couple of years it has been our extra car and was lucky if it got driven once a month. But this morning it was so smooth and no hesitation at all. I was enjoying the ride so much I almost missed one of my favorite Big Bad VooDoo Daddy songs.

Last edited by NmexMAX; Aug 31, 2011 at 07:35 AM.
Old Sep 6, 2011 | 11:16 AM
  #379  
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this was quoted from the OP - can someone tell me what this procedure is? I have the OBDII reader, does this just mean reset the code light? or is it something different..thanks so much...I am having major issues with the Max, so I am hoping this might be a step in right direction...

Relearn procedure:
After putting the MAF back to the car, perform the ECU reset and Idle relearn procedures
Old Sep 6, 2011 | 12:32 PM
  #380  
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OBDII reader is not necessary. You either just disconnect the battery overnight, or do a special procedure with the gas pedal, depending on what year your car is.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...l?ref=esp-link

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...l?ref=esp-link

Last edited by 02pearlmax; Sep 6, 2011 at 12:34 PM.
Old Sep 6, 2011 | 03:40 PM
  #381  
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ECU reset - stalling Maxima

Thanks very much for the prompt reply, I will give it a try

I have been having so many problems related to things like this for a few years...I love the car, but truly its beginning to be a real pain.

Here is my other post looking for advice / thoughts on what is wrong...feel free to send me a PM or email if you know what might be wrong.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generation-maxima-2000-2003/365289-5th-gen-i-am-new-here-but-have-question-thread-345.html#post8193445


Here is a link or two , for what appears to be hundreds of other people who are having similar issues...why is this such a mystery for this model? This is Nissan, not like Yugo or something???


http://www.carsurvey.org/reviews/nis...mments/page-4/




http://forums.automotive.com/70/6279403/nissan/2000-nissan-maxima-problems/index.html

Thanks, Curtis
Old Sep 18, 2011 | 06:29 AM
  #382  
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did this after replacing the air filter. toughest part was getting the connector off the mass air flow sensor. works perfectly. didn't reset anything and car runs excellent. i plan on doing this every time i change out the air filter.
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 11:54 AM
  #383  
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..........About to do mine.
Old Oct 27, 2011 | 07:00 PM
  #384  
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wow.... what a difference after cleaning the MAF.

- no more engine/air-sucking growl

- acceleration is better (feels very normal).

- power at the pedal (can spin wheels if needed)

mine prob needed cleaning from K&N fluid build-up on air flow through the MAF..... did Armada also.....
Old Oct 28, 2011 | 06:18 AM
  #385  
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Originally Posted by Les7311
- acceleration is better (feels very normal).

- power at the pedal (can spin wheels if needed)
I had the same benefits from cleaning mine. Also got rid of the bogging after taking foot off the pedal.

Last edited by guarj17; Oct 28, 2011 at 07:26 AM.
Old Oct 28, 2011 | 06:55 AM
  #386  
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You do know that the root of your problem was/is K&N air filter, right?
Old Oct 28, 2011 | 07:25 AM
  #387  
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Originally Posted by sontakke
You do know that the root of your problem was/is K&N air filter, right?
If this is towards me, I do not have K&N I have Injen, and are you talking about the bogging?
Old Nov 2, 2011 | 04:01 PM
  #388  
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I cleaned my MAF sensor, started her up and she ran fine. Tried resetting the ecu with the key but couldn't get it so I unhooked the battery. Ran great.
This morning I had a hard time keeping it running till it got good and warmed up. Ran great after that. No eng light. Any ideas?
Old Nov 3, 2011 | 10:44 PM
  #389  
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Originally Posted by Vicsponjr
(2000 Maxima)
I cleaned my MAF sensor, started her up and she ran fine. Tried resetting the ecu with the key but couldn't get it so I unhooked the battery. Ran great.
This morning I had a hard time keeping it running till it got good and warmed up. Ran great after that. No eng light. Any ideas?


I am in the same boat. I need to give it gas on a cold start until it warms up and everything is fine.

Any ideas?
Old Nov 7, 2011 | 11:28 AM
  #390  
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TSB 02010, need to have an update on the ecm and that will fix the stalling on cold start issue.

Car runs perfect now.
Old Nov 8, 2011 | 11:28 AM
  #391  
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For anyone that is having the 3500 rpm "someone tied an anchor to the back of my car" problem, definetely try this BEFORE you buy a new MAF sensor. I did this today and it totally fixed that and my start up and idle issues. 7.99 for the cleaner is definetely better than 100 or more for a new sensor
Old Nov 8, 2011 | 11:40 AM
  #392  
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Did it for me too.
Old Nov 21, 2011 | 11:31 PM
  #393  
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so i just replaced my entire maf sensor because my car had some serious issues. when i put the air box back, i noticed the part leading away from the throttle body wasnt really connected (pic below). i was thinking about just duct taping it so it was connected, is that okay or this a problem?

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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:10 AM
  #394  
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You should be able to push that all back together, Spyderpig. I doubt ductape would hurt anything, but it sure will look, well... duct taped...
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 06:49 AM
  #395  
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yea, i would prefer not to duct tape it but i tried pushing it back together and it doesnt reach... also, i know it goes into the air filter but what exactly does it do?

2000 maxima
Old Nov 22, 2011 | 07:04 AM
  #396  
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Its an additional duct to direct air towards the filter. No, not ram air, just a small aid. Shift some things around and it should go back.

I sort of had the same problem. Drilled a hole in both parts, and put a screw in there to act as a locking pin if you will so they wouldn't move around.
Old Nov 23, 2011 | 01:48 PM
  #397  
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^ This. Just loosen the bolts and move the parts around until things line up. Then re-tighten.
Old Feb 1, 2012 | 10:02 PM
  #398  
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I just picked up an MAF sensor from my local junkyard and I'm seriously debating cleaning it and testing it out on my car to see if it'll help me with any MPG's or help my idle smooth out..

Thanks for the writeup!
Old Feb 5, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #399  
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How to do a ecu reset?
Old Feb 5, 2012 | 02:51 PM
  #400  
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Did it yesterday, car us burning gas but it didn't do a ecu reset so I'm doing that right now.



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