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VQ30DET Internals On the Way!

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Old 12-13-2008, 08:04 PM
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VQ30DET Internals On the Way!

I finally secured my VQ30DET internals and now I am ready to start this biatch. My plan is to take a low mileage VQ30DE, and rebuild it from the ground up using:

VQ30DET Crank, Rods, Pistons, Intake Manifold
Z32 MAF and Injectors
VQ35HR Oil Pump
JWT S1 Cams
ARP Bolts All Around

This will all get swapped into my 2001 AE Maxima.

I am having a buddy of mine help me with this, he is the brains of the operation as far as the wrench time goes. I plan to use a V1 T-Trim Blower w/ Mattys Plate and some custom charge tubing.

I know there is limited information on these motors, but I wanted to be able to run somewhere around 18-20 psi on this once its done, which will hopefully put me in the mid 400's for HP. What do you guys think is a reasonable boost level for this? And what else should I be replacing to make sure the bottom end can handle it.

I have the JWT Cams, the Low mileage VQ30DE-K, and Now I have my VQ30DET Parts, but I need your guys KNOWLEDGE because without that, i am just sitting on a bunch of parts.

Thanks alot guys. Will take pics of it all when it arrives

On a side note...I have been told the VQ30DET Intake Manifold Flows considerably better then the standard VQ manifold. I will be installing the DET manifold on my N/A DE-K and dynoing before and after to show any gains or losses for the good of the community.

Also, this will be bolted up w/ NWP Intake Spacers, an Unorthodox OEM Size Billet Crank Pulley, Cattman Headers, Y Pipe, FastCat, and Catback, as well as a Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel and an Exedy Stage 2 Clutch to hold it all together. (I am waiting on NWP for the Spacers, but everything else I have already secured )

Thanks again guys!

Last edited by CaTalyst.X; 12-13-2008 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 12-13-2008, 09:16 PM
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I would stay away from the pulley, just cause I've heard bad stories with it all

And the only bolts you can use for the rods are just some new OEM ones which will be fine for what your doing (there are no ARPs)

but overall a nice setup, keep us posted

oh and don't think there is a pulley out there that will give you more then 15psi maybe 16psi...can't remember, I may be wrong

Last edited by DrunkieTheBear; 12-13-2008 at 09:27 PM.
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Old 12-13-2008, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveVQ
I would stay away from the pulley, just cause I've heard bad stories with it all

And the only bolts you can use for the rods are just some new OEM ones which will be fine for what your doing (there are no ARPs)

but overall a nice setup, keep us posted

oh and don't think there is a pulley out there that will give you more then 15psi maybe 16psi...can't remember, I may be wrong

I think vortech makes a 2.62" pulley that is roughly 15-16psi. I will probably start with that and see if I can get a smaller pulley machined. I am guessing 15psi with an intercooler as part of the charge piping will produce some pretty respectable numbers.

What is the issue with the OEM sized Billet pulley? I have seen issues w/ the underdrives, but I dont recall seeing anything bad about the OEM sized one.

-Ryan

Last edited by CaTalyst.X; 12-13-2008 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 12-14-2008, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CaTalyst.X
I think vortech makes a 2.62" pulley that is roughly 15-16psi. I will probably start with that and see if I can get a smaller pulley machined. I am guessing 15psi with an intercooler as part of the charge piping will produce some pretty respectable numbers.

What is the issue with the OEM sized Billet pulley? I have seen issues w/ the underdrives, but I dont recall seeing anything bad about the OEM sized one.

-Ryan
Well I know that with the SC its not a good idea to use a lighter one whether its underdrive or OEM size (reason why doublea got rid of his), if your manual get a fidanze flywheel, you'll see a better response with that.

I would start at a 10 psi pulley to break everything in properly before jumping into the 15-16psi one.
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