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I35 low on oil/burning oil?

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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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I35 low on oil/burning oil?

My car is overdue an oil change by about 400 miles.

I've been noticing that the oil pressure light comes on briefly when starting.

So I added some oil yesterday and now it doesn't do it anymore.

I'm almost positive it's not leaking oil, so could it be burning it?

After adding oil the light doesn't flash anymore when starting, so is it right to assume that the oil was low? I checked it and it seemed to be okay, but then again I'm awful at those kinds of things. Is it normal for a car to "use" oil, to where it would need to be added, or could my car be burning it? She runs fine, no smoke whatsoever.

Surely an engine problem would be the last failure in these cars.

It's going to the dealer tomorrow.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 11:53 AM
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Did you try checking the level on the dipstick?
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by mtrai760
Did you try checking the level on the dipstick?

Yeah but there was nothing conclusive. It read pretty much the same after I added a quart. I'm terrible at even small crap like that.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:37 PM
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What year is your i35?
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:41 PM
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So what did the level read on the dip stick? The oil light flashing for a second when starting is normal.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:46 PM
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Don't you have to add oil on the vq35 once in a while cuz they burn it.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SlyI35
My car is overdue an oil change by about 400 miles.

I've been noticing that the oil pressure light comes on briefly when starting.

So I added some oil yesterday and now it doesn't do it anymore.

I'm almost positive it's not leaking oil, so could it be burning it?

After adding oil the light doesn't flash anymore when starting, so is it right to assume that the oil was low? I checked it and it seemed to be okay, but then again I'm awful at those kinds of things. Is it normal for a car to "use" oil, to where it would need to be added, or could my car be burning it? She runs fine, no smoke whatsoever.

Surely an engine problem would be the last failure in these cars.

It's going to the dealer tomorrow.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ase-enter.html


http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ing-3-5-a.html

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...il-burner.html


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=953005


This is only four of 1,000,000 threads about this.Use the search funtion.You would be wasting your time taking it to the dealer unless they are going to replace your engine for free.

Last edited by memphisballer; Jan 14, 2009 at 12:54 PM.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 12:52 PM
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Old Jan 14, 2009 | 04:37 PM
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How long did you wait to check the oil the first time after you first turned off your car? If you didn't wait at least 10 minutes, you aren't going to get an accurate reading. Same with adding oil. You are going to have to wait at least 10 minutes for all the oil to drain into the oil pan.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by memphisballer
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ase-enter.html


http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ing-3-5-a.html

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...il-burner.html


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...&Number=953005


This is only four of 1,000,000 threads about this.Use the search funtion.You would be wasting your time taking it to the dealer unless they are going to replace your engine for free.
BINGO!!! Very nice. And for the guy that asked what year it is... I don't think it really matters... It could be only one of 3 years I believe...02 03 or 04. I'm not sure on the oil burning issue in the 04 I35. I'm pretty sure it was the same as the 5.5 gen...
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 05:02 PM
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If the light was coming on I would follow scottwax's instructions. It's probably more than a court low. There seems to be many theories but I think the lead is bad rings. The reason you may not notice smoke is because once the car warms up the rings expand and you get a "proper" seal on the piston wall (that's just my theory, it could be way off) . As stated above...this has ALL been said before... Search function FTW.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Scottwax
How long did you wait to check the oil the first time after you first turned off your car? If you didn't wait at least 10 minutes, you aren't going to get an accurate reading. Same with adding oil. You are going to have to wait at least 10 minutes for all the oil to drain into the oil pan.
Thanks for your replies everyone.

I only waited about 30 seconds.

Basically all I'm asking is this:

Is my car going to need a new motor even if it is burning it?

I wouldn't think so, I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to basic mechanics; but I do know that these motors will easily go 250k if maintained properly, which mine is.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by SlyI35
Thanks for your replies everyone.

I only waited about 30 seconds.

Basically all I'm asking is this:

Is my car going to need a new motor even if it is burning it?

I wouldn't think so, I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to basic mechanics; but I do know that these motors will easily go 250k if maintained properly, which mine is.

No. As long as you check the oil level regularly.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SlyI35
Thanks for your replies everyone.

I only waited about 30 seconds.

Basically all I'm asking is this:

Is my car going to need a new motor even if it is burning it?

I wouldn't think so, I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to basic mechanics; but I do know that these motors will easily go 250k if maintained properly, which mine is.
As long as the oil burning isn't excessive (Nissan considers anything less than a quart per 1000 miles to be acceptable), you aren't fouling plugs (you will know because you will get an SES light and a misfire code) and you regularly check the oil so it doesn't get too low, your engine will last a long time.
Old Jan 15, 2009 | 04:06 AM
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^^^what they said.
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:10 PM
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Also, when starting the vehicle, it is normal for the oil light to illuminate for 1-5 seconds as the oil pressure is building....
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 12:19 PM
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yes
Old Jan 22, 2009 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ramius83
Also, when starting the vehicle, it is normal for the oil light to illuminate for 1-5 seconds as the oil pressure is building....
Mine will flicker if the car has been off 20-40 minutes for a second or two on start up. Less than 20 minutes or more than 40 and no flicker at all or if it is less than 70-75 degrees. I have noticed that with a new battery that cranks my car a lot faster than the old, less than acceptable cold cranking amp (supposed to be 582 CCA minimum, the one in the car was 530 CCA) the oil light flickers a lot less.

Just FYI, over the last 5120 miles, my car used 2.7 quarts of oil (Castrol Syntech) which gives an oil consumption rate of 1 quart every 1896 miles. There hasn't been any change over the last 30,000 miles in oil consumption so at least it isn't getting worse.
Old May 8, 2009 | 09:27 AM
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i go thru a quart in maby 200 miles n thats horrible and it dosent smoke eathet and has great compression so it aint the rings.
Old May 8, 2009 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Douglas Tvrdik
i go thru a quart in maby 200 miles n thats horrible and it dosent smoke eathet and has great compression so it aint the rings.

I assume you ment every 2000 miles?? Otherwise you have a massive leak somewhere.
Old May 8, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Scottwax

Just FYI, over the last 5120 miles, my car used 2.7 quarts of oil (Castrol Syntech) which gives an oil consumption rate of 1 quart every 1896 miles. There hasn't been any change over the last 30,000 miles in oil consumption so at least it isn't getting worse.
How do you get the number that specifically?

Is it based on what's coming out at the oil change plus additions since last change minus the amount of the last change?
Old May 8, 2009 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SlyI35
Thanks for your replies everyone.

I only waited about 30 seconds.

Basically all I'm asking is this:

Is my car going to need a new motor even if it is burning it?

I wouldn't think so, I'm pretty ignorant when it comes to basic mechanics; but I do know that these motors will easily go 250k if maintained properly, which mine is.
Mine uses oil as well, and although I've never actually studied it to see exactly how much it burns, it seems to be about 1qt/1k miles. This doesn't bother me all that much, obviously I'd rather it didn't burn any oil at all, but it is what it is. What does worry me is that I bought my car used from a woman who I'm pretty sure didn't do a whole lot of maintenance. I'm judging this based on the fact that when she sold me the car, she never told me about the 6yr/100k mile extended warranty she had purchased on it. That was a nice surprise for me though.

I just have to wonder though how many times she drove home from work and called her hubby to tell him the oil light was blinking on and off again. So while the car will be fine under your care as you know you need to check the oil evry 1k miles, you have to wonder if the previous owner was that careful.
Old May 8, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Max_Gator
How do you get the number that specifically?

Is it based on what's coming out at the oil change plus additions since last change minus the amount of the last change?
When I checked the oil at 5120 miles since the last oil change, I topped it off, waited 10 minutes to be sure the oil was at the full line and then took inventory of how much oil I had added since the last oil change. I keep track of how much oil I put in so I will know if it gets worse. Same with my mileage, I am **** about it.

Last edited by Scottwax; May 8, 2009 at 08:47 PM.
Old May 13, 2009 | 06:37 AM
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nope i ment 200 and i dosent leak a drop. its ****ing horribe
Old Jul 8, 2010 | 03:01 AM
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my oil light will come on from time to time when going around a tight corner, but i also have a slight oil leak. thats why im here honestly. I love the vq engine architecture, and praise its name at every opportunity i get, but this pesky oil leak is driving me nuts. ive learned alot by reading and having to post 15 times b4 i can post myself, hopefully ill find my answer b4 i even get a chance to post lol
Old Jul 8, 2010 | 02:21 PM
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Is this happening to ppL who purchased the '03 3.5L brand new and stiLL have it?

I, Like others, Love my '03 3.5L SE 6spd. I purchsed mines about 3months ago in CT. CARFAX stated that there was onLy 1owner prior to me.
Within the past month, I have been coming across simiLar issues such as the oiL burning with NO VISIBLE LEAKS, a bit of rattLing on coLd start-ups...

I'm just wondering if there is anyone out there that bought an '03 BRAND NEW and STILL has it and drives it:
1) are you burning oiL Like the rest of us?
2) are you noticing a "rattLing" sound when you're driving/start-up/idLing?

I'm asking to see if these "common" probLems are a maintenance issue or not?
(I'm assuming it's not, but I wouLd Like to come to some sort of concLusion/soLution)
Old Jul 8, 2010 | 07:24 PM
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How many miles are on your "consumption cars"? I may just be lucky, or it hasn't started yet, but I don't have to add oil between my 3k oil changes. It's down between 1/4 and 1/3 from H to L @ 3K. I've got around 76K on the car now.
Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by OdurtyG
I, Like others, Love my '03 3.5L SE 6spd. I purchsed mines about 3months ago in CT. CARFAX stated that there was onLy 1owner prior to me.
Within the past month, I have been coming across simiLar issues such as the oiL burning with NO VISIBLE LEAKS, a bit of rattLing on coLd start-ups...

I'm just wondering if there is anyone out there that bought an '03 BRAND NEW and STILL has it and drives it:
1) are you burning oiL Like the rest of us?
2) are you noticing a "rattLing" sound when you're driving/start-up/idLing?

I'm asking to see if these "common" probLems are a maintenance issue or not?
(I'm assuming it's not, but I wouLd Like to come to some sort of concLusion/soLution)

Did you read the thread and the links? Lots of original owners have had the problems.
Old Aug 7, 2010 | 10:00 AM
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Normal for the 02-03 3.5's some just make the oil dissappear some more than others, some less than others!!
Old Aug 7, 2010 | 10:31 AM
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I had several seals replaced, new coil packs installed, new plugs/wires, etc to the tune of $1200+ less than 6 months ago. This was supposed to fix the oil burning problem according to the dealer. It hasn't, and I decided I'm done with this car.

Infiniti is now gone. 2010 Mustang GT Convertible in the garage now.

Infiniti/Nissan = never again. Its costed more to keep the thing running than it did to make the payments.
Old Aug 7, 2010 | 11:10 AM
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Shame...the 3.5 burns oil. Our 2003 Murano with the same 3.5L always needs oil between oil changes. My 2000 I30 never does.

Enjoy the new mustang!
Old Aug 7, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by SlyI35
Yeah but there was nothing conclusive. It read pretty much the same after I added a quart. I'm terrible at even small crap like that.
The reason it reads the same is because when you add oil it dumps fresh oil all over the dipstick. It's really dumb.. You cant get an accurate reading for at least 10 minutes after you add oil.

I recommend adding oil the night before you are going to use it again so it has ample time to clean off the dipstick and settle.

That is the only way to get an accurate reading with their crap dipstick.
Old Sep 20, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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2003 Maxima SE

I was investigating a persistent pinging problem on my Maxima SE with 68K miles yesterday. I decided to change the spark plugs (among other items on the list). Front bank no problem; rear bank what an engineering FUBAR!! More on that later, but I found the driver's side rear bank coil pack hole full of engine oil!! Cleaned it all out, replaced the plug and it ran just fine. Has anyone ever dealt with this problem? No engine oil on the outside of the engine and none leaking on the ground. Does this mean I need to replace the valve cover gasket? Looks like a royal pain in the *@!^...
Old Sep 20, 2010 | 11:23 AM
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You need to replace the rear valve cover, since there are no gaskets sold separately ( I mean, the spark plug wells sealers). Its better to use the 6th gen cover, it is cheaper and better quality.

Last edited by boris; Sep 20, 2010 at 11:33 AM.
Old Sep 20, 2010 | 12:54 PM
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Not trying to hijack your thread, but when the oil pressure light came on when I was driving my dad's Jag, 1 mile later it threw a rod through the oil pan. Was not pretty. Warranty engine replacement thank god.

Carry on
Old Sep 20, 2010 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by VQP0WER
Not trying to hijack your thread, but when the oil pressure light came on when I was driving my dad's Jag, 1 mile later it threw a rod through the oil pan. Was not pretty. Warranty engine replacement thank god.

Carry on
Why didn't you immediately pull over when the oil light came on?
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 03:07 PM
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My '03 burns oil at a higher rate than my '98 did; about 1 qt every 2000 Kms / 1250 Miles. My mechanic alerted me to this and suggested oil changes every 3000 Kms / 2000 Miles. However, once that first quart of oil is gone, the engine occasionally gives a rattling/chattering sound that drives me nuts. So I top up every 2000 Kms and change the oil/filter every 6000 Kms / 4000 Miles.

What is interesting is that the Infiniti G35 has the same 3.5L/V6 engine but I never have to top up between oil changes.

Is the 3.5L/V6 engine in the Infiniti G35 Coupe a little different from the 3.5L/V6 engine in the Maxima?
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxmentum
Is the 3.5L/V6 engine in the Infiniti G35 Coupe a little different from the 3.5L/V6 engine in the Maxima?
Besides being a RWD block, no. Nissan quietly fixed the oil-burning problem by switching to better piston rings. I don't know exactly when they did that, but it would seem that all the engines were okay by the '06 model year, maybe even with the '04s?

My VQ35DE burns oil at wildly incalculable rates because it all depends on how often I push it above the magic threshold wherein the piston rings no longer seal properly.
Old Oct 19, 2010 | 03:56 PM
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Hi all! I bought my 02 6T in July of 2009 w/ 103K. I hardly drive and never drive to the point of revving the rpms too high-I now have 112K. My last oil change was in June 2010 and still had 1K before (I know, I need to do it every 3months or 3K). 1 month ago, my car was having this sound...took to my trusty mechanic and was told the car was basically out of oil. They topped it off, I have driven maybe 300 miles since and the sound is back! Then today, the check engine light came on!

HOW DO YOU READ THAT STUPID DIPSTICK! I'm not an idiot but it's impossible! I see the L and I see the H. But there are also 2 grooves. Should it be at the highest groove to have proper oil?

The mechanic said no oil leaks so I'm not sure if it is burning oil. Thanks in advance!
Old Oct 19, 2010 | 04:05 PM
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With 3.5VQ motors, you need to wait 10 minutes of so after you shut off the engine to check the oil. Check engine light could be on for a number of reasons besides being low on oil, you need someone to hook a code reader up to it to see what that is about.



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