help! vavle cover replacement while putting on NWP spacers?
#1
help! vavle cover replacement while putting on NWP spacers?
*note this has nothing to do with the nwp spacers besides the fact that this was what I was getting done when this was found*
Spacers are great
I'm getting my spacers installed today, and the shop calls me and says I need to replace my valve cover because there is oil in there and its on the coil and rotting out some rubber boot. Now I dont know to much about the inside of the engine but, I am going try to get them to email me the description of what is wrong, but as of right now I'm confused and sceptical about this. Any one have any ideas because if I need to get this done I will, if not (may be bs?) I need to know. With that I feel like I've had some power loss but I thought it mightve been due to the MAF, but I have no SES lights on. I'm at work right now, and I dont have much time to search. If someone knows I would appreciate any thoughts!
Spacers are great
I'm getting my spacers installed today, and the shop calls me and says I need to replace my valve cover because there is oil in there and its on the coil and rotting out some rubber boot. Now I dont know to much about the inside of the engine but, I am going try to get them to email me the description of what is wrong, but as of right now I'm confused and sceptical about this. Any one have any ideas because if I need to get this done I will, if not (may be bs?) I need to know. With that I feel like I've had some power loss but I thought it mightve been due to the MAF, but I have no SES lights on. I'm at work right now, and I dont have much time to search. If someone knows I would appreciate any thoughts!
Last edited by Stormzusmc; 02-27-2009 at 05:28 PM.
#2
Valve cover gromit is leaking which is putting oil into the tube where the ignition coil is. This is what the dude said....With everything said and done, replacing the coil, gromit and valve cover, doing the nwp spacers and all new plugs im looking at 900.......wtf thoughts? did a little searching and it looks like that may be the issue=(
Last edited by Stormzusmc; 02-19-2009 at 12:41 PM.
#4
Get an A34 valve cover from Dave B. Search would've given you that answer quite quickly. All of this work is extremely simple, no reason to pay to have it done. How again is this in any way an AM topic?
Last edited by pmohr; 02-19-2009 at 02:37 PM.
#6
"Internal Engine work" this seems to be internal..therefor all motor? If not im sure it can be moved...anyway yeah while at a immuno lab i didnt have time to search just post a question before i told the mechs to do it over the phone...
#7
#8
thanks for the link wish i couldve seen that sooner lol.... i already told the dude to do it...the purpose was to see if anyone knew about this fast so i could tell the dude to do it....
#9
hmmmm. im wondering why he even noticed this, i mean spacer install dosent involve valve cover anything. unless he was jus trying to look if anything was wrong. but still.
so hes getter new valve covers??? i bet he thinks he can get a new gasket and it comes with spark plug tube seals.
the org is ur friend.... spend lots of time looking around.
so hes getter new valve covers??? i bet he thinks he can get a new gasket and it comes with spark plug tube seals.
the org is ur friend.... spend lots of time looking around.
#13
Searching should be done before asking a new question, only takes 30 seconds. You'll spend less time searching than waiting for replies. And exactly what intermal engine work is going on here again? You never specified.
#14
^^ thx for the reply, i did a light search didnt turn up much as i said i was in a medical laboratory working i didnt have time to search read search read... if this bothers you do not reply..mods please move this if this is not am....i posted it where i saw fit thanks
#15
Hey dude, I've done that job myself about 3 times . It's easy if you have the correct torques for the bolts and a torque wrench. There is no grummet that you can replace. It's actually an oil seal and can't be replace on the '02 and '03 . You'll have to buy a new VC that comes with the new seal along with a new PC valve and the intake manifold gasket. I can do the job for $200 if you are willing to travel to Florida with all the new parts.
#16
#18
That leaves about $660 left for labor. It does not take that long to rip off the intake manifold in order to get to the valve covers to change them. Disconnect a few hoses, unplug a few connectors, unbolt a few brackets, and you're good to go. The valve covers are just 10 bolts and a couple more hoses a piece. The lower intake manifold is a few more bolts. Slap on some RTV, stick the spacers on, and you're good to go. Definitely does not justify almost $700 in labor costs. He f*cked you pretty hard. You really might wanna think about doing your own work in the future man.
I realize it's too late now, but take a look at the "valve cover replacement" thread I just bumped so you can see exactly what the mechanic will be doing for the money he's charging.
Last edited by wyche89; 02-21-2009 at 03:41 PM.
#19
Hey dude, I've done that job myself about 3 times . It's easy if you have the correct torques for the bolts and a torque wrench. There is no grummet that you can replace. It's actually an oil seal and can't be replace on the '02 and '03 . You'll have to buy a new VC that comes with the new seal along with a new PC valve and the intake manifold gasket. I can do the job for $200 if you are willing to travel to Florida with all the new parts.
ill hit you up next time!
correction...did
GOOD LORD!!! I got 6 NGK platinum plugs, 2 A34 valve covers and gaskets for $166 shipped from Dave B. A new coil costs 70$, and no extra labor with the work that's already being done. $166 + $70= $236
That leaves about $660 left for labor. It does not take that long to rip off the intake manifold in order to get to the valve covers to change them. Disconnect a few hoses, unplug a few connectors, unbolt a few brackets, and you're good to go. The valve covers are just 10 bolts and a couple more hoses a piece. The lower intake manifold is a few more bolts. Slap on some RTV, stick the spacers on, and you're good to go. Definitely does not justify almost $700 in labor costs. He f*cked you pretty hard. You really might wanna think about doing your own work in the future man.
I realize it's too late now, but take a look at the "valve cover replacement" thread I just bumped so you can see exactly what the mechanic will be doing for the money he's charging.
That leaves about $660 left for labor. It does not take that long to rip off the intake manifold in order to get to the valve covers to change them. Disconnect a few hoses, unplug a few connectors, unbolt a few brackets, and you're good to go. The valve covers are just 10 bolts and a couple more hoses a piece. The lower intake manifold is a few more bolts. Slap on some RTV, stick the spacers on, and you're good to go. Definitely does not justify almost $700 in labor costs. He f*cked you pretty hard. You really might wanna think about doing your own work in the future man.
I realize it's too late now, but take a look at the "valve cover replacement" thread I just bumped so you can see exactly what the mechanic will be doing for the money he's charging.
http://forums.maxima.org/members-rid...hes-clean.html
#22
#23
#24
It can be done alone but is more effective done together. You gain top end but loose bottom the spacers are supposed to pick up what you lost down low. Theres been alot of talk in other treads just search vias. I not trying to be a smartass just alot of stuff could be explained better than what I have on other threads.
#26
stomzusmc... I had the same problem as you but worse:
Heat from the engine hardened the coil pack well seals, which are mounted in the valve cover. Oil got past the hardened seals, into the wells and all up inside the rubber boots which contain the conductors between the packs and the plugs. Plugs misfired and unburned gas disintegrated my pre-cat filter. I heard a strange rattle in the engine compartment (loose filter in the pre-cat) when I stepped on and off the gas. The check engine light came on. Chunks of pre-cat filter flew though the pipes and piled up in front of the main cat filter. Lost fuel efficiency.
If it makes you feel better, a new pre-cat can run $600ish. Hopefully you saved that!
Heat from the engine hardened the coil pack well seals, which are mounted in the valve cover. Oil got past the hardened seals, into the wells and all up inside the rubber boots which contain the conductors between the packs and the plugs. Plugs misfired and unburned gas disintegrated my pre-cat filter. I heard a strange rattle in the engine compartment (loose filter in the pre-cat) when I stepped on and off the gas. The check engine light came on. Chunks of pre-cat filter flew though the pipes and piled up in front of the main cat filter. Lost fuel efficiency.
If it makes you feel better, a new pre-cat can run $600ish. Hopefully you saved that!
Last edited by SWerVeDriVeR; 02-25-2009 at 06:08 PM.
#27
It can be done alone but is more effective done together. You gain top end but loose bottom the spacers are supposed to pick up what you lost down low. Theres been alot of talk in other treads just search vias. I not trying to be a smartass just alot of stuff could be explained better than what I have on other threads.
stomzusmc... I had the same problem as you but worse:
Heat from the engine hardened the coil pack well seals, which are mounted in the valve cover. Oil got past the hardened seals, into the wells and all up inside the rubber boots which contain the conductors between the packs and the plugs. Plugs misfired and unburned gas disintegrated my pre-cat filter. I heard a strange rattle in the engine compartment (loose filter in the pre-cat) when I stepped on and off the gas. The check engine light came on. Chunks of pre-cat filter flew though the pipes and piled up in front of the main cat filter. Lost fuel efficiency.
If it makes you feel better, a new pre-cat can run $600ish. Hopefully you saved that!
Heat from the engine hardened the coil pack well seals, which are mounted in the valve cover. Oil got past the hardened seals, into the wells and all up inside the rubber boots which contain the conductors between the packs and the plugs. Plugs misfired and unburned gas disintegrated my pre-cat filter. I heard a strange rattle in the engine compartment (loose filter in the pre-cat) when I stepped on and off the gas. The check engine light came on. Chunks of pre-cat filter flew though the pipes and piled up in front of the main cat filter. Lost fuel efficiency.
If it makes you feel better, a new pre-cat can run $600ish. Hopefully you saved that!
#28
Most mechanics will recommend changing the rear valve cover (or just gasket on cars that have that option) when changing plugs on a car that required intake manifold removal. Better to spend the extra so 6 months down the road you don't have to pay all that labor to pull the intake again to change a leaky VC. Sort of like replacing the water pump when you have a timing belt changed. Since you are already in there...
I got a quote of $250 labor to do the intake spacers, plugs, rear valve cover and any necessary relearns from a local mechanic. Haven't decided if that is low enough to let him do the work. I just don't have the tools I used to have and don't have a garage to work in and pretty much the only time I can work on my car is on rainy days. Sunny days I'm detailing.
I got a quote of $250 labor to do the intake spacers, plugs, rear valve cover and any necessary relearns from a local mechanic. Haven't decided if that is low enough to let him do the work. I just don't have the tools I used to have and don't have a garage to work in and pretty much the only time I can work on my car is on rainy days. Sunny days I'm detailing.
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