a33i30

iTrader: (4)

They were squiqing, so I resurfaced the the Pads(they still had alot of life in them) and the rotors(it was a PITA since it was 90 degrees outside and the car's fan was on). Now my problem is that it feels like the car doesn't stop as well as it used to, even tho its quite. Will it get better or is it going to stay bad like this

RLW001

iTrader: (11)

You should follow the "bed-in" procedures for your pads.

Here several recommendations by manufacturer.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

a33i30

iTrader: (4)

Yea I did that, it says you have to drive 400 miles for best performance, I guess I have to wait.

sublime258

iTrader: (9)

I'm pretty sure the pads had a certain coating on them when they were new, that is transferred to the rotor during the bed-in procedure, which creates an ideal surface on the rotor for the pads. How exactly did you "resurface" the brake pads?

SilverGLE

iTrader: (21)

He probably lightly sanded them with sandpaper... I'm getting RTP blanks to replace my Napa blanks up front (damn uneven pad transfer) and will be lightly sanding my Hawk HPS before I attempt to bed them in.

rroderiques77

iTrader: (45)

"Resurfacing" pads

Once the resin from the new pads gets bedded into the rotors, resurfacing them will decrease stopping power. That is why the burnishing procedure is so important. The noise you were experiencing will most likely return.

http://www.bendixbrakes.com/techCorner/faq.php

a33i30

iTrader: (4)

Yup lightly sanded them with wet sandpaper, it actoully did the trick, they started working real nice and the surface looks brand new.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

did you grease everything up before you put it back together?

The moving parts NOT the friction surface, of course.

a33i30

iTrader: (4)

I used CRC Brakleen brake cleaner to clean the moving parts, works good but finishes fast.