djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Interesting - can you explain a bit more about the product you used?

bgsl1ck

iTrader: (3)

2000 SE

80,000 O2 sensor
180,000 fuel pump/ motor mounts
200,000 axle/ tie rods inner and outer
200,000 radiator
215,000 alternator
the rest is normal wear and tear

Turbonut

2000 GLE purchased 2002 31,000 miles, now 165,000 miles

Sun roof motor 45,000 - N/C warranty
Passenger side PW switch 70,000 - N/C warranty
MAF 135,000 - $380 (Dealer got me)
Alternator 140,000 - $75
Starter 150,000 - $50
IACV 163,000 - $117
CV Boots 163,000 - $26
2 mufflers-2nd under warranty

Car has been great and last year installed a set of Michelin Exalto 225/55-16. Only the 3rd set including the OE tires.

MaximaAKA_Sleeper

Nothing fancy...Autozone/Carquest exhaust section, it's called "muffler putty" or the like. It's a siliconized paste that cures in a few hours. If possible, using the screen or tape kits is preferable, though sometimes difficult.

Max Forever

Bought my 2002 with 62K, traded it in 3 years later at 140K

Other than regular oil/fluid changes and cleaning of my K&N air filter...
Changed Rotors once, and pads twice


Exhaust
Small crack had to be welded at a joint just after the muffler

That's it!
No leaks, squeeks or grunts!
Fequently manual shifted it as well, car ran amazing.

It was gonna need some work on the rear joints, and some of the lines had started rusting too, but changed it out before that!
In mantenance, this has been my least costly car I've ever owned!

That's why I now have a '07.... sweet

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Wish I had known about this when the pipe/flange on my muffler went a while back.

MaximaAKA_Sleeper

Current:192000

Did $53 exhaust repair, had to weld in a 6" piece of pipe prior to muffler.

Alternator and Serpentine Belt: $425 w/ Labor and remanufactured alternator.

All is good otherwise...

BuRoJo

Bought '00 GLE, Auto, 54k mi in Aug-09

Previous owner (Bro' in-law) repl 4 brakes (pads) 2 fr. rotors, new exhaust (OEM cat back), new battery, new tires.

My stuff
Engine:
- MAF (hesitated when first started-up, anemic perform > 3.5k rpm)
- PCV valve

Trans:
- Drain & refill ATF (Mobil 1)

Night_raiders

2001 maxima with 192.5k


5spd tranny replaced at 191k cost $1000
front pass wheel bearing and hub. at 180k cost $450
front driver wheel bearing replacing tomorrow. at 192.5k cost $70
front driver cv axle. at 190k cost $60
IAT sensor at 191K cost $20

and of course brake pads spark plugs oil changes.

Amave

to revive this thread, i would like to add 134,000 changed outer tie rod ends ( Moog )

plans are..

change front struts ( previous owner hacked the strut bolt and it clunks over bumps from the play in the strut )
replace driver side sunvisor ( previous owner broke it )
fix/replace driver side up/down power motor ( previous owner ddnt mention the up/down ddnt work )
2 tires ( for now )
alignment ( vehicle slides all over on acceleration )
Bose cd player doesn't work ( talk radio for me ) ( will replace with aftermarket HU )
Moog ball joints
front wheel beaings ( on the 120 mile trip home the front end was shaking, bearings is just an asumption for now, until i find time to diag )
shift boot ratty
CEL bulb was removed
has test pipe & no cat ( will install cat when i find a used/good/cheap one


all i ccan think of for now will add to list as i replace

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

^^ Sucks that you inherited a car which wasn't taken care of, or one in which all the problems weren't disclosed.

Either way, sounds like fun. Should ride nice when you're all done

Amave

yeah it does kinda suck as far as $$$$ goes, since i work at a shop and have acces to any/all power tools , presses, special tools, a lift etc. so i'm not worried if anything goes wrong, it's just parts cost $$$ and i save huge amounts on labor ( since i will do the work myself & have Alldata at work for torque specs )


since i did get it for a fair price ( $3900 ) for a 2000 SE 5spd .

only good thing the previous owner did was replace the transmission & clutch kit so i wouldn't have to worry about that.

front end looked fairly easy to work on.

so when all is said & done i will be driving a faiirly new A33 when all new parts are installed

mandyfig

Might as well pitch in:

00 GLE AT acquired 10/2009 @ 163K, currently 166K.

>Pass CV boot busted, still need replacement.
>Power Steering High Press hose replaced, 163K.
>Fan Shroud replaced due to bad motor, 164K.
>Alternator replaced at 165K.

mandyfig

4 months ownership, relatively happy with the purchase because of the .ORG!! Would have not done it without the ORG!

Now with the SE rims, like it very much!

SexyChics'03Max

2003 SE, 118,000 miles

Engine:
Transmission was replaced ($0) <----- Covered

Exhaust:
(2)O2 Sensor(s) <----- Replaced

Struts



Otha than that shes in great condition!

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

01 maxima bought in Jan 09with 65K on the clock
since then have replaced:

Front and back suspension $$$
tranny fluid + filter - tranny still feels crappy to date
Brakes (regular maintenance)
all four rotors
IACV + the ECU ! $$$$$$$
2 O2 sensors replaced
Front pre-cat
one of the ABS speed sensor is bad (will require a trip to the stealership)

I absolutely hate this ***king POS Maxima. Spend more than $3000 in only one year of ownership and it probably isn't going to stop their.
Will never ever ever buy another POS Nissan ever again

kthnksbye

Amave

wow sounds like we're in the same boat, but also take into consideration how the previous owner did or did not take care of it.

so the next guy is stuck with the problems. I mean a car is an investment isn't t? why buy a car that cost so damn much money and let it go to ****? doesn't make sense

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

A car is definitely NOT an investment. It depreciates.

Unless you want to non-financially consider it an investment in life-enjoyment.

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

from what i know, the car was dealer maintained. When i bough it, the guy emphasized on the fact that he had recently changed the engine coils. At that point i didn't even know what they were and how much they cost but now i do and yes they also cost an arm and one testis

I am def ok with aggressively maintaining my car so long as the parts im replacing fall under regular maintenance.
But anyways, im too far into this mess to pull out now....will keep on driving and fixing this car for at least the next 5 years...

oh and i forgot to add the seized rear caliper which i also recently replaced........

VQP0WER

Grow up dude. Please tell me the why the items listed above made Nissan a POS? 3/4 of what you typed is wear and tear. I hate it when people have a few things go wrong with their cars and instantly say they are never going to own XX brand again. If that were true, you would never own another vehicle.

Get your walking shoes on you friggin sissy.

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

i was expecting retards like you chiming in their insignificant two cents to this thread.

Yea IACV is a regular maintenance item. Oh and when it goes, it takes the ECU with it. We all know about the regular ECU replacements every 65K miles .
Same goes with the Tranny, coil packs, precats, rusted radiator supprts, f'ed up rotors every 50K miles....all of which combined will get you another POS maxima . Yea its cheaper if you do everything yourself but not everyone's a grease monkey...

Jeff03sixer

2003 SE Auto, bought in Dec '05 with ~58,000 miles
Currently have ~105,000 miles
replaced the struts at 95k (passenger front was blown)
replaced the coils at 99k (just got all 6 since i had to drive 1000 miles 3 days later)
front and rear motor mounts at 100k (cracked and liquid leaking out)

thats about it. going to keep it for a couple more years. no car payment is awesome.

Amave

no, i meant an investment as far as getting you where you need to go, something that is high maintenance and if someone spends $xxxxx amount of dollars and lets it go to **** and expect it to bring home the bread w/o even spending a cent....

VQP0WER

You are so lame. Seriously consider just driving a Civic or something. You are crying because your IACV fried your ECU. Big friggin whoop. If you can't afford the occasional repair, then get a mountain bike, but then again, if you get a flat tire you would prolly blame it on the manufacturer.

I have close to 100k and never had to replace a single thing except oil and filters. When it comes time to replace the wear and tear, you won't hear me b!tching like a baby like you.

caremd99

2002 GLE 45K miles

Bought it new w/ 4 miles on it. (It was ordered for me)

Some initial stuff under warranty...cracked wind deflector, stiffer rear springs, drivers auto door lock servo/solenoid

Initially added a tranny cooler and replaced tranny fluid w/ AMSOIL

Recently (within last 12 months)- front brake pads, 2 O2 sensors, belts, AMSOIL oil changes every 18 months (does not burn any measurable amount), replaced tires

Oh yeah...Keep having to fill up with gas...

I will teach my 10 year old daughter how to drive in this car when she is old enough!

RR5

iTrader: (6)

I bought my 2002 SE in Sept-2004 with about 40,000 miles on it. Sometime in 2006 I needed the automatic transmission rebuilt because the differential side pin broke causing it to gouge out a hole in the torque converter/bell housing. I would get transmission fluid all over the exhaust piping and smoke as a result. I’m still not very sure how that would have happened.

Then a screw popped off the throttle plate and ended up bouncing around in the upper intake manifold, stupid Nissan Dealer technician told me “He revved the engine until the sound stopped, then dug down until finding the screw on one of the pistons.” I made my extended warranty cover the throttle body replacement, WITH thread lock on the screws.

Then in 2009 I had more transmission problems, with 150,000 miles on the clock, paid to get the transmission rebuilt AGAIN. And I still feel there is “issues” with the transmission, I may save to get the transgo valve body stuff done.

However I do feel I need a new MAF and the rear valve cover since reading the information here on the ORG. May as well get the front valve cover from the 2004 Maxima since word is the cover fits, it costs less and is more durable.

2 GO B4

2002 SE AUTO

owned car since 2004---had 39000 miles on odo when purchased---now 99000


Followed usual maintenance schedule---Castrol synthec initially, but recently switched to synthetic RP oil (last oil change)---changed every 3-5K---never burned any oil
----had blackstone oil analysis done last oil change....they said the engine was wearing extremely well and gave compliments

Never used any gas except premium V-power and use lucas fuel injector cleaner regularly

All brakes changed at 40K, changed fronts at 95k---backs still got 1/2 life left

Change tranny fluid and coolant every 30K since

Did full tune up with Denso Iridiums at 70K (I believe they changed the back valve cover seal at the same time...but not sure...have to find the receipt), also changed all drivebelts

K&N air filter- cleaned every 50K

Had to have car towed to dealer once as a result of the crankshaft position sensor failing---65K-----car would turn over but would not start (replaced under recall/TSB)

On second battery.....battery bit it last summer while I was stopped for gas....would not even accept a jumpstart...had to buy a battery and bring it back to the gas station and replace it there (or risk getting $%@#$% for a tow)

Rarely push the car to its limits (but I have when I needed or wanted to) and at the same time don't baby it either....

Other than that....the car has been outstanding...runs extremely well.....looks great......and has proven to be extremely reliable to date.

2slow

iTrader: (6)

VQPower, are you recommending a Civic because it's more reliable than a Maxima? It certainly seems so.

And to counter your point, the IACV and ECU should not be wear and tear items (like your poor analogy of a flat tire), and should not be considered a routine or occasional repair. If your definition of wear and tear includes parts like this, I would expect you have no issue replacing any part, and would therefore assert any vehicle you own has acceptable maintenance costs. Furthermore, your experiences with your Maxima represent one reliability data point and does not characterize the model.

I am surprised you haven't replaced anything other than oil/filters in 100k miles. You must be very easy on your Maxima to not have replaced any wear items (brakes, dampers, bearings, spark plugs, etc.).

With comments like this:

I wouldn't expect much respect.

I'm not here to troll for your response (which I expect to include at least one childish insult), but to tell denny_1986 that in his situation I can appreciate his assessment, even if a bit exaggerated.

SiathLinux

1999 Maxima LE - so far only replacing the shifter boot (as it was worn out and nasty looking and my interior is so clean and near new looking)

I know there are some things that will need attention soon, like the CV boots, and I have an exhaust rattle from mid car area (probably a lose or broken heat shield).

MaximaAKA_Sleeper

My baby is still alive and kickin'...some new items worked on.

206,000 miles

Replaced rear calipers, pads, and rotors. (The only maintenance I've done on the rear prior was to turn the rotors and replace pads.) Piece of cake to replace, total cost $300

Replaced ABS Sensor on driver rear, took 15 minutes. Total cost: $110 I put this off since June of 2009, but the snowy days were getting difficult!

Exhaust is rattling again. I think I may need to get some rewelding done and reattach/replace some rusted brackets. Est cost: $75-100.

Suspension is getting somewhat tired...feeling more bumps on the long trips...looking to replace rear shocks and maybe a bushing here and there. Front struts are a bit spendy...

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

2002 SE 4AT, purchased at 113,987, currently 171,680

Engine:

Starter at 160,000, $150

Emissions:

Bank 1 rear O2 twice (120,000 and 142,000), $100 each
Both precats at 162,000 (used precats with 60k miles on them), $85 + $187 installation

Cooling system:

Thermostat at 122,000, $30
Radiator at 135,000, $159

Suspension/steering:

Hub and right front wheel bearing at 145,000, $400 parts and labor
Outer tie rods at 142,000, $120 parts and labor

Certainly can't complain with the miles I have on the car.

MaximaAKA_Sleeper

UPDATE!
225000 miles
Just replaced the following:
1. front struts, control arm bushing, tie rod end
2. rear shocks
3. left rear bearing (replaced the right at 90k, the front right at 175k)

Total Cost: $1600 at local shop

1. 4 new Goodyear Eagle GT's got about 40-45k out of the last ones.

Total Cost: approx $800, includes road hazard, nitrogen, etc.

Car feels brand new...

Psgr seat motors started working again..

Bose sub cuts out sometimes.

Exhaust...removed some loose heat shield bolts, got somewhat quieter...

I think I will drive it another 100000 and evaluate.

Seriously, living in Wisconsin it will probably rust apart before it dies...

sontakke

Are you still on your original alternator? I am thinking of changing it pre-emptively or at least ordering one and keeping it in the car. I am past 150K.

- Vikas

maxpilot53

I have an 02 SE Glacier Pearl that I purchased new. Other than tires, brakes, battery and fluids, I have only had to change the radiator and the oil cooler o-ring at 110K, and I think my struts are shot now with 113K.

Qtr

I bought my 2000 at 70k, and driven it 20k so far, so I;ve done minor repairs.

Brakes: Lathed rotors at 80k due to bad vibrations from braking at highway speed. Most people say it doesn't work or doesn't last long but 10k miles later and still no vibrations or steering wheel wobble so I'd say it was useful.

Body: Last month DIY rust repair, getting prepared for another Northeast winter. I recommend popping off the plastic cover on every door footwell. When I took them off I had a ton of little spots coming from each of the holes where the plastic covers' clips fit into. Water seems to sneak under there and just sit, especially bad for us salt-belt guys.

pinellas50

01 SE purchased new. It now has just over 107K on it.

Engine-
My check engine light came on at 35K. I replaced the O2 sensor the Autozone scanner said was bad. The light stayed on and has been on ever since. I'm annoyed that all of the sensors are different and all are over $100. So I never replaced any of the others and the car still runs like it was new.

-It does sometimes have that knocking noise when it is first started. Like the motor doesn't have oil pressure. It goes away instantly and I keep reading this is normal on these motors and not a problem per say.

Transmission - No problems. Fluid changed once around 70K miles.

Suspension -
-Both front wheel bearings replaced by 90K miles. One failed and destroyed a front hub. The dealer said the 2001 models are prone to this and most have failed front bearings by 90K. They claim it is a part defect from the bearing supplier they used back then. I recommend they get replaced before they fail because they destroy the hub when they do and that's kind of an expensive item. When I replaced the bearing that still seemed OK I could see it was starting to fail too by looking at the hub and the groove the bearing race was just starting to try and cut into the hub.

-front struts replaced around 95K

-inner and outer tie rod ends and sway bar end links replaced at 110K.

Those have been the only problems and the car still drives great. I wouldn't hesitate to hop in it right now and drive it across the country if I had to. This is by far the best car I have ever owned!

EDIT: 111K on the car now. I just had to replace the alternator. This weekend I will have to replace the low side A/C hose. And now it looks like the steering rack might be leaking. I had to put almost nothing into the car for repairs up until 95K. Now it seems like everything is starting to go at once. I understand all of this is normal wear and tear and I'm not complaining, it just could have spaced things out a little better for me and my wallet.

Love_00_Max

My maxima has been quite a heartburn for me, 187K -- my last Nissan (below list miles, cost).!!!

Changed Front Rotor and Pads 61500 280
Changed Ignition Coils & Plugs 64000 500
Ignition Switch Failure 77500 200
Changed drive belts 97650 115
Changed Front Struts, tokico 99830 210
Changed O2 sensors 100100 330
Changed rear struts, tokico 110000 150
CV boots 110500 330
Replaced Radiator, Cap and OEM flush coolant 111500 450
Plugs 120000 80
Changed Tie Rods and Sway endlinks 129300 120
Changed Alternator 131170 300
Changed LBJs 131700 125
Wheel Bearings 137150 180
Changed Tranny gasket and magnets + 4Q 139000 80
Changed Water pump, tensioner, drive belts 147800 680
Changed Motor mounts 162000 320
Side Motor mounts 176000 175
Rotors+pads+calipers 180000 410
Changed Ignition Coils 186000 90

kbohip

My '02 Maxima with 104k miles has so far been just as reliable as my great old '92 Maxima. My list:

Bought car used at 55k miles:

60k miles: Changed struts. Original struts were still fine but I wanted 5 way adjustments via the Illuminas.

75k miles: Driver's side power window motor went out. Replaced under extended warranty that original owner was nice enough to have bought.

90k miles: Replaced front rotors and brake pads.

99k miles: Replaced high pressure power steering hose.

Soon: Motor mounts are in need of replacement.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

187,400 miles now. Replaced the passenger side engine mount. Probably should replace the stock struts at some point but the car handles decently enough, just a little wallowing on dips.

Maxima1802

Good to hear, and gives a lot of us more confidence.