Ahmad_1290

iTrader: (2)

So after driving around with a retarded clutch pedal I decided to go to the local Advance auto parts store and ordered a clutch master cylinder. Bad move... It cost $79. It looked a bit larger than the original, and the clutch line was at the top. Not on the side like the original, so I had to bend the line. Anyways I got it in there and the whole thing was off.. The resivor was not straight. It was leaning toward the right. So I took it out and returned it. Now i ordered a new slave and master for only $106 shipped from this place
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/nissan~rep.html
They say its OEM replacement. Sooo, is there anything I should do prior to installing both of these? and how hard could it be bleeding that clutch with both new parts? I’ve been told it a b!tch.
Thanks in advance

Ahmad_1290

iTrader: (2)

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Do yourself a favor, get the full SS clutch line - http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...tch-lines.html

Makes bleeding everything a lot easier, and cleans up the engine bay some as well.

Bench bleed the master before installing it. Make sure to lube the slave piston where it contacts the clutch fork.

That's about all that comes to mind.

FWIW I got my master and slave brand new for under $80 from rockauto when I did my swap, about 6 months ago.

Ahmad_1290

iTrader: (2)

Man.. I've been carless since monday and the parts come in tomorrow. I dont know if i can wait another week for the SS line to come in.. Is it a must?
how do i bench bleed the master?

Ahmad_1290

iTrader: (2)

Okay i changed both.. and its the same thing!! After city driving the pedals real hard and releases high. After a highway drive it gets soft and releases off the ground.. Is there still air in the lines or something?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you bench bleed the master then bleed the whole system well after installing the new parts? Using both bleeders?

If so, there shouldn't be any air in the lines.

metalpiotr

iTrader: (1)

And I believe there is a certain order of doing things. I think first you should bleed at the slave cylinder, and then at the bleeder near the master. I know there was threads about bleeding and the procedure is also explained in the FSM.

When I replaced my slave cylinder, I bled for almost an hour, because small air bubbles kept coming out. One thing that seemed to work for me was to pump the clutch pedal a few times before opening the bleeder. Meaning, pump the pedal a few times, then push the clutch pedal in, open the bleeder, close it, let go of the clutch (it seemed to make more bubbles come out).

Reeba

Not to be a pest but I'm in exactly the same boat. I pushed the pedal in and it just hit the floor. No resistance. I took it to a non-dealer mechanic and he suggested replacing the cylinders.

Master and slave replaced as well as the line. There was a crack in the line so I'm pretty sure that depleting fluid was the problem. Now when I start driving it feels like it used to. But the more I drive the more force I need to push the pedal in and it grabs right at the top of the throw.

He said he bled the lines 2 times because he noticed the pedal wasn't right. Whether he did or not who knows. Is this problem as simple as me bleeding them myself or could it be something else? Could it be something in the actual clutch mechanism overheating?

I am on my third Max and I peek in here once in a while. This community is knowledgeable. Any input is appreciated.
2001 SE 20th 65000 miles all stock.