Vibration - need to confirm mechanic's analysis
06-18-2009, 07:50 PM
#1
Vibration - need to confirm mechanic's analysis
Symptoms: vibration beginning around 30mph and getting progressively worse until around 60-70mph. Goes away above 80mph. Vibration is constant, regardless of braking, accelerating, turning, etc.
What it's not: All rotors have been replaced, pads are new, tires are fairly new and balanced, and rims are fairly new and undamaged.
The mechanic says my inner tie rods "have play in them." I'm not sure how much, and I don't have the ability to lift the car and check anything myself. I'm just wondering whether the tie rods can cause the amount of vibration I'm feeling. It's not violent, but it's enough that I can visibly see the sun visors shaking, for instance.
The mechanic recommended replaced both the inner and outer tie rod ends, at an estimated cost somewhere north of $1000. I usually just leave when I get a quote above $1000 and either find a cheaper way or think about what kind of new car I can afford.
What do you guys think about the mechanic's conclusion/prices?
What it's not: All rotors have been replaced, pads are new, tires are fairly new and balanced, and rims are fairly new and undamaged.
The mechanic says my inner tie rods "have play in them." I'm not sure how much, and I don't have the ability to lift the car and check anything myself. I'm just wondering whether the tie rods can cause the amount of vibration I'm feeling. It's not violent, but it's enough that I can visibly see the sun visors shaking, for instance.
The mechanic recommended replaced both the inner and outer tie rod ends, at an estimated cost somewhere north of $1000. I usually just leave when I get a quote above $1000 and either find a cheaper way or think about what kind of new car I can afford.
What do you guys think about the mechanic's conclusion/prices?
06-18-2009, 08:24 PM
#2
Symptoms: vibration beginning around 30mph and getting progressively worse until around 60-70mph. Goes away above 80mph. Vibration is constant, regardless of braking, accelerating, turning, etc.
What it's not: All rotors have been replaced, pads are new, tires are fairly new and balanced, and rims are fairly new and undamaged.
The mechanic says my inner tie rods "have play in them." I'm not sure how much, and I don't have the ability to lift the car and check anything myself. I'm just wondering whether the tie rods can cause the amount of vibration I'm feeling. It's not violent, but it's enough that I can visibly see the sun visors shaking, for instance.
The mechanic recommended replaced both the inner and outer tie rod ends, at an estimated cost somewhere north of $1000. I usually just leave when I get a quote above $1000 and either find a cheaper way or think about what kind of new car I can afford.
What do you guys think about the mechanic's conclusion/prices?
What it's not: All rotors have been replaced, pads are new, tires are fairly new and balanced, and rims are fairly new and undamaged.
The mechanic says my inner tie rods "have play in them." I'm not sure how much, and I don't have the ability to lift the car and check anything myself. I'm just wondering whether the tie rods can cause the amount of vibration I'm feeling. It's not violent, but it's enough that I can visibly see the sun visors shaking, for instance.
The mechanic recommended replaced both the inner and outer tie rod ends, at an estimated cost somewhere north of $1000. I usually just leave when I get a quote above $1000 and either find a cheaper way or think about what kind of new car I can afford.
What do you guys think about the mechanic's conclusion/prices?
$1000+ for tie rods sounds rediculous.
06-18-2009, 08:47 PM
#4
you know its funny because i've been having the same problem for a long while now. i've been through different wheels too. you should go to NTB. they wanted to do mine but wanted to do the driver side instead of the passenger side with the vibration.
06-18-2009, 09:37 PM
#5
FWIW, I just bought inner & outer tie-rods from rockauto.com. All 4 parts came to a subtotal of $140 ($30x2, $40x2).
In order to do the inner tie-rods you gotta take off the outers (separating outer from knuckle & unscrewing it off the inner). So if they're charging you for two separate jobs, that's crazy.
But if that's what they charge, that's what they charge, ya know...take it or leave it. Even still, you sure they said $1000 just for tie rods? Sounds like something's missing.
As for the diagnosis:
How is your steering? Does it track straight? I'm under the impression that if your tie rods have play, your steering should be negatively affected. For example, my car has some "auto-steer" type thing going on when going over bumps and stuff...but I know for a fact that one of my inner tie rods are bad and that I'm in need of new struts+mounts.
If you have the factory jack, you can still jack a side up and do the wheel shake test by grabbing at 9 & 3 and then pushing at 9 and pulling at 3, and vice versa. Then do the same at 12 & 6.
In order to do the inner tie-rods you gotta take off the outers (separating outer from knuckle & unscrewing it off the inner). So if they're charging you for two separate jobs, that's crazy.
But if that's what they charge, that's what they charge, ya know...take it or leave it. Even still, you sure they said $1000 just for tie rods? Sounds like something's missing.
As for the diagnosis:
How is your steering? Does it track straight? I'm under the impression that if your tie rods have play, your steering should be negatively affected. For example, my car has some "auto-steer" type thing going on when going over bumps and stuff...but I know for a fact that one of my inner tie rods are bad and that I'm in need of new struts+mounts.
If you have the factory jack, you can still jack a side up and do the wheel shake test by grabbing at 9 & 3 and then pushing at 9 and pulling at 3, and vice versa. Then do the same at 12 & 6.
06-19-2009, 09:07 AM
#6
That price is OUTRAGEOUS. 
I too just priced those parts from Rockauto.com the other day (moog?) -- and having a very similar issue in my car for over a year now.
Progressive vibration thru 60-80mph.
i think it's POSSIBLE that I've BENT either my tierod(s) on passenger side or the lower control arm itself.
I also had the bearing & Hub replaced, but still having this issue.
I'll replace EVERYTHING in the suspension BEFORE I replace the axles.
Short Answer: go someplace else and get another quote, you now KNOW what those parts cost, so you can ask the next guy how many shop hours the job will take, and what their Rate is. Do the math, and there you have it!
Very few places (except dealers) USE OEM NISSAN parts, unless you specify them...so likely you're getting CHEAP CHEAP aftermearket parts in those ridiculous quotes -- which means even MORE of a ripoff.
good luck - keep us posted.
gr
I too just priced those parts from Rockauto.com the other day (moog?) -- and having a very similar issue in my car for over a year now.
Progressive vibration thru 60-80mph.
i think it's POSSIBLE that I've BENT either my tierod(s) on passenger side or the lower control arm itself.
I also had the bearing & Hub replaced, but still having this issue.
I'll replace EVERYTHING in the suspension BEFORE I replace the axles.
Short Answer: go someplace else and get another quote, you now KNOW what those parts cost, so you can ask the next guy how many shop hours the job will take, and what their Rate is. Do the math, and there you have it!
Very few places (except dealers) USE OEM NISSAN parts, unless you specify them...so likely you're getting CHEAP CHEAP aftermearket parts in those ridiculous quotes -- which means even MORE of a ripoff.
good luck - keep us posted.
gr
06-19-2009, 02:40 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Louisville, Ky
Posts: 181
i think i am having the same progressive vibrations as well on my 02 Max, I know my outer tie rod end boots art shot and need to be replaced. I cant really see the inners that well. Let me now if you get them replaced and how the ride if after. i am sure the price includes an alignment as well but damn thats still crazy. Do it yourself and then just go get an alignment
06-19-2009, 06:04 PM
#9
As for the diagnosis:
How is your steering? Does it track straight? I'm under the impression that if your tie rods have play, your steering should be negatively affected. For example, my car has some "auto-steer" type thing going on when going over bumps and stuff...but I know for a fact that one of my inner tie rods are bad and that I'm in need of new struts+mounts.
If you have the factory jack, you can still jack a side up and do the wheel shake test by grabbing at 9 & 3 and then pushing at 9 and pulling at 3, and vice versa. Then do the same at 12 & 6.
How is your steering? Does it track straight? I'm under the impression that if your tie rods have play, your steering should be negatively affected. For example, my car has some "auto-steer" type thing going on when going over bumps and stuff...but I know for a fact that one of my inner tie rods are bad and that I'm in need of new struts+mounts.
If you have the factory jack, you can still jack a side up and do the wheel shake test by grabbing at 9 & 3 and then pushing at 9 and pulling at 3, and vice versa. Then do the same at 12 & 6.
The steering feels perfectly fine to me. Tracks straight, and isn't too sloppy. Maybe it's not the tie rods? I'm certain that the mechanic said there was some play in the inner tie rod ends, but I'm not sure how that would affect the steering.
What should I be looking for with the wheel shake test?
And thanks everyone, for confirming that I should tell the mechanic to shove it.
06-23-2009, 02:02 AM
#10
You are looking for "play" or looseness. Everything should be tight enough so that you shouldn't be able to shake it with a reasonable amount of pressure. Don't do it so hard so that your call falls off the jack...stand.
06-23-2009, 07:25 AM
#11
1000 is crazy. even with aftermarket pieces the tie rods (inner+outer) should be no more than 150 a side. prob more like a 100 per side in parts and prob about 100-130 depending on labor rates per side to install inner and outer. then of course an alignment is needed. total should be no more than 500 tops if anything.
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