I have a question concerning my AC. My AC works fine and blows cold air, however, when I turn the air off, it get a bad sound from the area near my belts and compressor when the car is running. I had the belts replaced last week thinking that was the problem, but that was not it. I searched the forums and it appears most people have problems or hear noises when they turn their A/C on. I get this noise when I turn mine off. The compressor appears to be engaged fine as the air blows cold. The noise will continue until I turn the air on. Before I waste anymore money, can someone tell me anything else I may want to check? It almost sounds like a loud ticking noise.

 

Possible clutch bearing. Loosen the belt and spin the compressor clutch to see of any noise is noticed. While loose, spin the idler pulley also just to be certain that's not a problem.

 

thanks! I will give that a try. If that is the problem, will the entire compressor need to be replaced or can those parts be replaced alone?

 

Let's not jump to a conclusion until the noise can be located. If heard when running, sometimes a long nscrewdriver placed against your ear will help isolate the area.

A clutch assembly probably can be purchased, but in the area that the compressor is located, it might need to be removed for the operation, so another compressor would be an easier route. You would still need to discharge the system and evacuate and recharge if the compressor were to be removed.

Remove the clutch disc using the clutch disc puller.
Insert the holder’s three pins into the holes in the clutch disc.
Rotate the holder clockwise to hook it onto the plate. Then,
tighten the center bolt to remove the clutch disc.
After removing the clutch disc, remove the shims from either
the drive shaft or the clutch disc.
I Remove the snap ring using external snap ring pliers.
I Pulley removal
Position the center pulley puller on the end of the drive shaft,
and remove the pulley assembly using any commercially available
pulley puller.
To prevent the pulley groove from being deformed, the
puller claws should be positioned onto the edge of the
pulley assembly.

 

I did get the opportunity to pinpoint that it was the compressor. Thanks Turbonut. I took it to 2 different shops and they both stated that it appeared that the bearing in the compressor were the problem. One of the shops stated that the bearings alone could not be replaced or fixed but that I would need a new compressor. He quoted me around $800.00 to fix. Can someone confirm that the bearings can not be fixed and that this guy is telling me the truth?

 

Didn't you state that you are hearing the noise when you turn the AC off? When the AC is off and therefore the compressor is declutched and the compressor rotor including the clutch disk is not rotating/being driven by the pulley......how can it be the compressor itself? The load on the accessory belt system will change obviously when the compressor is engaged and then disengaged, and in your case you've got noise with the compressor declutched. Slacken off the accessory belt enough to allow you to freely spin the alternator, the idler pulley and the compressor pulley by hand and see how they feel and sound. Rotate the compressor clutch disk/shaft by hand in the direction of rotation to ensure that the clutch has a sufficient air gap (clearance) between it and the drive pulley and that they are in fact fully "declutched". With the compressor declutched it is only the drive pulley itself which is supported by a duplex ball bearing that is being rotated/driven by the accessory belt.

 

Yes,
I hear it when I turn the AC off.
I will try the things you mentioned tonight. Is there anything in particular that I should look for or feel for?

 

Clutch bearing is audible when the A/C is off as the clutch is spinning on the bearing, but the compressor shaft isn't turning. When the compressor A/C energized the entire assembly spins as one unit and no sound as all spinning at same RPMs.
Most will want to replace the entire compressor as that is the easiest solution, but discharging the system, changing compressor, evacuate the system and charge takes some time, and the new compressors are around $300-$400.
It's easy for me as I have a pumping station, but if you can do the work yourself, have someone discharge the system, then you can install the new compressor and take it to have it charged (you'll need proper refrigerant oil). You can always take a chance and purchase a used compressor/clutch assembly from a low mileage wreck.

 

Firstly, I would not just assume that it's the compressor pulley that's generating the noise before checking as I suggested above. The clutch disk IS bolted to the compressor shaft which ONLY rotates WHEN the clutch is engaged. When declutched the only component that is rotating is the drive pulley and bearing (the other half of the clutch, so to speak), and the drive pulley is rotating anytime the engine is running. The pulley assembly should be a replaceable unit. You should not have to replace the whole damn compressor, if the noise is in fact a compressor pulley issue. The compressor will have to be unbolted and located/positioned (without disconnecting any refrigerent lines) to allow for the removal of the clutch disk and pulley insitu. Any good AC shop should have the tooling and should be able to do this insitu if required. If it definitely is the pulley generating the noise, phone a dealer first and verify yourself if the pulley is available.......and sure, some shops are going to want to sell you a new compressor!

 

I had the same exact problem...took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it as AC compressor bearings and wanted $1,000 to replace compressor. I said "F U" and took it to a shop who wanted $800. I went back to the dealer because of a warranty on parts and labor.

New compressor solved issue...I did ask the dealer and the shop if just the clutch and bearings could be replaced and they said NO, you had to replace the entire compressor as those parts are not sold separately.

 

Here's the clutch:

Clutch, maxima 02-03 $394.36 $288.67
CLUTCH ASSY- 00-01 $418.08 $311.05

And the compressor:
Compressor, maxima 02-03 $540.19 $408.38

Better off with an aftermarket clutch/compressor assembly. Of course as stated above if you find a shop that will change the clutch they'll hit you with the list price then labor. Broad as it is long.

 

Out of interest I just checked, and up here in the great white north the dealer price for the "clutch" (I used an '01 for pricing) was $562 cdn. and the new compressor is a cool $ grand. I phoned a local automotive AC and electrical shop that I dealt with years ago and a new compressor was $642 cdn. and I believe he stated the clutch price was $282 cdn., but he can get and install a new pulley bearing for $180, if I were to bring in the pulley, I think the deal was. Dealers are a PITA.....they are only parts sellers and parts jerkers. It's like an alternator failure on a previous car a few years ago.......GM dealer price was over $200 for the unit, but a specialized auto electric shop put in an overhaul kit and tested my original unit for 90 bucks.

 

I called the local Nissan Dealer here in Memphis and they quoted me $1,100.00 as well. Before I do that I want to check some of the things that were mentioned in this thread. Anyone think Firestone will be much cheaper or about the same as dealer? I believe they will check it for free.

 

Truer words were never spoken.
Certainly glad I can do the work myself, although getting lazy in my old age. The dealer prices and labor are out of sight, not just for Nissan, but for any dealer. I believe the dealer rate on our Acura TL was $125/hr the last time I checked when it was in for a recall. Over the last year, the daughter's Max, dealer estimate was $600 for alternator, I did it for $75, CV boots $475, done for $25.50, and the IACV replacement was about $950, done for $117. They don't even take the time to replace the IACV; they just order the throttle body assembly as a whole.
Quite a difference $2025 compared to $212.50.

As stated above, try and find a local shop that can do the job at a more reasonable cost.

 

There is an excellent write up in the 4th gen section. I used it to fix a similar problem on my 2000 i30. In my case the AC clutch disk was broken and dragging on the pulley. I bought a used compressor from (car-part.com) for $125 and replaced just the AC clutch. If your case turns out to be a bearing, you can replace just the bearing using the write up.
Go to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...updated-2.html. Scroll down to or search for "Write Up: Noisy AC compressor repair (pulley bearing)".

 

pretty much anywhere you take it will be about the same in price $800-$1200. i had the same problem it was almost quiet when the air was on but when it was off it made some noise it was ok for a wile then it made noise all the time no matter what. but i cheaped out and bought a new compressor off ebay for like $190 with free shipping and put it on my self and had a friend of mine recharge the system so i cheaped out real big. the hole thing only took about 30 - 45 min. its an easy job to (diy) if you can turn some wrenches

 

I don't mean to steal your thread but mines gets a noise at idle on max AC, the rpm drops to almost stall and then goes back, seems like the condensor is turning on and off, on hills I sometimes stall out, I just shut off AC at idle now, anyone know why?

I recently changed my IACV and MAF and low side pressure AC hose