I am about to replace the rear main seal. Should I use some sort of sealant, rtv, etc, or just bolt it on?

 

yes... please... use sealant. Its pointless if you dont.


RTV sealant. the Black one at Autozone/advanced is great and rated for high temp. Make sure everything is seated properly and apply a liberal amount. It would suck to have to tear everything back apart because you were shy with the sealant.

 

Just around the top edge-
REAR OIL SEAL
NFEM0015S04
1. Remove transaxle. Refer to MT-10 or AT-284.
2. Remove flywheel or drive plate.
3. Remove oil pan. Refer to EM-13.
4. Remove rear oil seal retainer.
5. Remove old liquid gasket using scraper.
*Remove old liquid gasket from the bolt hole and thread.
6. Apply liquid gasket to rear oil seal retainer.

 

good post turbonut.

if I had pics of when I did it I would post it but make sure you apply it properly and a good amount. Each time I've done it, I've never had a leak.

 

You have to remove the oil pan?

 

idealy yes, but you dont have to. You can do it without it if your skilled but for a more fool proof setup, removing it will make installing it easier.

I've done it both ways with oil pan on, and off. Both times i had zero leaks.

 

Thanks....

Also, the replacement seal came with a gasket....use it as well...or just the RTV?

 

Scroll down to pag. 38
http://boredmder.com/FSM/Nissan/Maxima/2000/em.pdf

 

I made the mistake of doing it without removing the pan the first time I did one, never make that mistake again! What's weird those is that I've done the timing covers in car without removing the oil pan about 5-times and never had a leak on that one without removing the pan.

 

You use it as well, that 1/2 moon shaped gasket is the suspect one why you should remove the upper pan, and you also must apply permetex in certain spots of that seal as well (where the lines are on the corners) I also recommend browsing over the fsm first, and preferably dropping the upper pan and doing the pickup o-rings and front pan seal as well, it's just to risky, I know of several others who won't 1/2 *** it again either. To avoid supporting the engine with a hoist you can do the rms without the pan seal and then drop the pan and do the pan seals after the trans is back in (minus the 4 lower bolts)

 

My mechanic tells me that the aluminum oil pan should be replaced when you do the rear main seal. He's advised against doing the repair and says if it's not bad, I should just live with it.

I am tired of that plastic tray in my driveway catching the leak.

Are you guys just tossing in a new gasket and some permatex and calling it a day. Also, is it lasting and how long?

 

no the oil pan should NOT be replaced, its pointless. RMS leaks are usually caused by that rubber gastet on the RMS and sealant worn away. Replace the gasket, and seal it up good and you'll have no problems.

 

Thanks! One more question, how involved id the DIY on this? I can do pretty much anything on cars but don't mind paying of it's time and labor intensive.

 

removing transmission. If you can remove the transmission then the rest is cake.

remove axles
disconnect slave cylinder
remove cross member
disconnect linkage
un bolt trans
remove trans
remove clutch
remove flywheel
you'll be face to face with the rms...


thats not an exact write up but a jist of things to do. I'd say its about a 5 hr total job, longer if its your first time doing it. If your feel you can do it no problem later then if you dont need a clutch change dont worry about it, but this would be the perfect time to change your clutch and get your flywheel resurfaced.