Drove through water....HELP!
08-12-2009, 10:24 AM
#1
Drove through water....HELP! ~UPDATED~
So the wife drove into some deep water last tuesday morning and backed out of it. The car ran fine afterwards, until later that evening. I was driving home from work and it died sitting at a light. I thought it was out of gas, so I pushed it to a gas station and put some in it. it started right up, but would only idle. I messed with it for about 10 minutes (turning it off and on, pulling the air filter) and eventually it started and ran fine. I went to work and back without a problem the next day, but it died again wehn my wife was driving it that evening. Same issue, it would idle but not rev. This time it took about 2 hrs before it finally cleared up, but it drove fine afterwards. The next morning it started fine for me but started doing the same thing right after i pulled out of the driveway. Soon after that it died and has not started since. I pulled the codes and it is throwing P1612, P1122, P0021, and P0221. This could not have happened at a worse time financially, so I am trying to fix it in the most cost effective way possible. Could anyone give me some ideas where to start? Thanks in advance!!
btw: it is an 02 SE all stock, AT
btw: it is an 02 SE all stock, AT
Last edited by mattndawna; 09-02-2009 at 05:36 AM.
08-12-2009, 10:59 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
Because of those various fault codes (you've even got a NATS code there) and the fact that your issues were initially intermittent, and stating the obvious, it looks like water has gotten into some electrical harness connectors.......this could be a royal PITA. Was the airfilter bone dry? Can your wife give you an idea how high the water actually was? With the Ign. switch "ON" are all the dash lights on, and is the engine still "trying" to start/run?
08-12-2009, 11:30 AM
#6
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
Posts: 5,432
change your oil now, and I would change your spark plugs. Same thing happened to my friend's car. First we cranked it without the spark plugs to force the water out of the cylinders (something that's already been done in your car) then I changed the oil. 13 quarts of coffee came out of her 2.0L ECOTEC which requires 4 quarts of oil.
Whats phase 2??
08-12-2009, 01:29 PM
#12
lol, think i will keep the wife, thanks....
I did look up the codes, and this is what i found
P0021 - IVT Control (Bank 2)
P0221 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Problem
P1122 - Electric Throttle Control Performance Problem
the P1612 is something to do with the security system...
I did look up the codes, and this is what i found
P0021 - IVT Control (Bank 2)
P0221 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Range / Performance Problem
P1122 - Electric Throttle Control Performance Problem
the P1612 is something to do with the security system...
08-12-2009, 01:55 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
As the car has run somewhat normally since the water episode I don't think it's the MAF and the dry airfilter element proves that no water got into the intake. I see no other way for water to get into the engine. Just make sure that your tranny vent hose (the open "hook") is still attached/hanging adjacent to the intake duct. But any electrical harness connectors including any sensor/component connectors that may have been underwater/soaked need to be checked for water and dried out. Silicone spray can be useful for displacing moisture out of electrical stuff. Systematically do the ones first that you are quite sure were underwater (start at the bottom and work up). Before disconnecting/reconnecting electrical connectors it is wise to disconnect (Ign. sw. OFF) the battery power.
08-14-2009, 02:34 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: South Jersey (Near Philly)
Posts: 511
I would unclip every connector under the hood and psray them with CRC 556.
This is an excellent spray for displacing moisture.
Depending on how fast the wife was going when she hit the water allot may have sprayed up and hit the firewall. It may have caught there for a few seconds and submerged a few connectors. Since you get a Throttle position error that's one that's in that area.
I'd do the same with the Ox sensor connectors and anything else under the hood including the fuse area.
This is an excellent spray for displacing moisture.
Depending on how fast the wife was going when she hit the water allot may have sprayed up and hit the firewall. It may have caught there for a few seconds and submerged a few connectors. Since you get a Throttle position error that's one that's in that area.
I'd do the same with the Ox sensor connectors and anything else under the hood including the fuse area.
08-17-2009, 05:39 AM
#19
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
the maf sensor doesnt have to "look" clean to be clean...i mean lol its small as hell. Clean it for good measure anyways b/c most cars I had to deal with that stalled out in the rain just had a bad maf sensor...if they weren't completely hydrolocked.
08-17-2009, 07:03 AM
#20
Obivously you are not married, two points of your philiosphy goes right out the door w/the I do's....
Back to topic: Deffinitly change the oil, tps sensor:
the IVT control bank 2 sensor, could not find a pic but here is a thread discribing it's location:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-sensor.html
08-17-2009, 07:20 AM
#22
Obivously you are not married, two points of your philiosphy goes right out the door w/the I do's....
Back to topic: Deffinitly change the oil, tps sensor:
the IVT control bank 2 sensor, could not find a pic but here is a thread discribing it's location:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-sensor.html
Back to topic: Deffinitly change the oil, tps sensor:
the IVT control bank 2 sensor, could not find a pic but here is a thread discribing it's location:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-sensor.html
08-17-2009, 08:53 AM
#24
Obivously you are not married, two points of your philiosphy goes right out the door w/the I do's....
Back to topic: Deffinitly change the oil, tps sensor:
the IVT control bank 2 sensor, could not find a pic but here is a thread discribing it's location:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-sensor.html
Back to topic: Deffinitly change the oil, tps sensor:
the IVT control bank 2 sensor, could not find a pic but here is a thread discribing it's location:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...on-sensor.html
Ummm i hate to be the breaker of bad news but 2002 3.5 will have the drive by wire and will need the whole TB replaced.........
The 3.5 will not have a TPS like that cause that TPS is for a cable driven TB.
But i personally would troubleshoot the TPS before the VTC solonoids(can be very costly) But then again it could be just the cam shaft sensors which could be the issue as well
You can probley get a drive by throttle body for about 100 dollars. IIRC you can get one off any 3.5 that has the drive by wire
Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; 08-17-2009 at 09:12 AM.
08-17-2009, 08:56 AM
#25
08-17-2009, 10:43 AM
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
Do not worry about those damn fault codes right now, and the MAF sensor "element", which did not get wet. I don't think the water got up as high as the TB and the throttle actuator. The codes do not necessarily mean that it's related to a problem with the associated unit/component, or that it's only because of water contamination of the electrical harness connector of that component. The harness may have another mid-connector or sub- harness connector, and there IS, after all another end of the harness and another connector that does get connected at "the other end" (ie. the ECM for example). Some people are forgetting that this car ran after the "water event". The engine compartment harness alone has a whole bunch of "weather proof" (along with standard ones) connectors that after being submerged for even a short time could have allowed water past the weather seal and then "trapped" this water in the connector causing these issues. First, complete what fflint_18 has suggested and be systematic. Check every one. I don't like that NATS code. Have you pulled up the carpet? The harness/connectors in the center console/floor area should also be checked by the sound of it. I do not envy you!
Last edited by P. Samson; 08-17-2009 at 10:46 AM.
08-17-2009, 02:16 PM
#29
i'm lowered and i had to drive through some deep water at the gym while it was raining hard.. i didn't get water into the cabin.. it didn't help that my hood was halfway opened in the front.. it sucks when your alty dies and your car runs on a deep cycle batter for a couple of seconds.. lol
08-18-2009, 06:13 PM
#31
Another idea - check/clean the connectors that are low in the engine bay. If alternator for example is as low as I recall on my 2k it could easily get it and then you might get all kind of problems.
Accelerator Pedal Position sensor is also close to the floor and is relevant to the some of the codes reported.
09-02-2009, 05:35 AM
#32
OK, Car is at the mechanic. He said he got it running, but it still wont rev. He cleaned all the connectors and sensors. He also said I need a new Throttle Body? He gave me a price of 324 on it. I think I found it on partsgeek for 122. Does this make sense to you guys who know a lot more than me? Thanks in advance...
09-02-2009, 06:51 AM
#34
I'd be very surprised if the TB was damaged. It didn't get wet. I predict that the mechanic will try replacing several parts chasing codes when the problem is in the connections or ECU.
I'd be looking at the ECU. If the carpet was soaked it would, over time, soak up to the ECU which is only inches higher than the floor AND has carpet right under it. That would explain why it got worse over time. A bad ECU could throw all kinds of codes and cause symptoms that don't throw any code.
BTW, I wouldn't change the oil ahead of schedule. You didn't suck any water into the engine.
I'd be looking at the ECU. If the carpet was soaked it would, over time, soak up to the ECU which is only inches higher than the floor AND has carpet right under it. That would explain why it got worse over time. A bad ECU could throw all kinds of codes and cause symptoms that don't throw any code.
BTW, I wouldn't change the oil ahead of schedule. You didn't suck any water into the engine.
09-04-2009, 03:26 PM
#35
Well the mechanic has replaced the throttle body, which has the TPS on it. He is now telling me the sensor at the pedal needs replacing, that it is putting out negative voltage? Anyone have any idea what part he is talking about? Thanks!!
09-04-2009, 07:00 PM
#36
Umair
09-04-2009, 08:42 PM
#37
It would have been nice if he had checked that before replacing expensive parts that were working fine.
The pedal sensor controls the drive by wire throttle. It lives at the very top of the gas pedal. When you press the pedal it moves the pedal sensor instead of pulling a cable like on an older car. The sensor tells the computer you're pushing the pedal and sends a signal to the throttle body to open or close. It's just a complicated way to replace a simple system that always worked fine.
The mechanic should know what voltage the pedal sensor should put out.
I'd be doubtful of the pedal sensor since it's higher up and doesn't come in contact with the carpet.
11-07-2009, 02:07 PM
#38
update... the car just went to the dealer after months at the (small) mechanic. It will idle fine, but will not rev past 2k. It has a new throttle body and accelerator pedal (with sensor). The mechanic said all voltages check out fine and he has no clue as to what could be wrong. It is still throwing p1122 and p0507 codes. The mechanic said he spoke to the local nissan dealer and they told him i need a new ecu and throttle body and it would be 1800 to 2k at least! I had it towed to a dealer that I trust a lot more than the one he spoke to, so I guess I will see what happens when i hear from the dealer on monday. It would be nice to be armed with a little knowledge when i talk to them so I am reaching out to the org for any wisdom you can impart. Thanks guys, I miss my max!!!
11-07-2009, 02:36 PM
#40
nope, never replaced the MAF. Didnt seem warranted from the info I got here and what the mechanic found. Unplugged all connectors and sprayed them out with electrical cleaner then let dry before reconnecting. The mechanic also spent hours going through all wires and connectors looking for corrosion and cleaning/drying things.