sc0tty8

iTrader: (1)

Here's the deal.

I got the legendary code P0455 and P1488. Doing some searching, I come to the conclusion I need to get a few items.

More or less want to double check these are what I need.

Hopefully these links work.

Evap canister control valve
PN: 14935-A33B004
http://www.courtesyparts.com/14920b-...h=shoppingcart

Evap canister
PN: 14950-A33B003
http://www.courtesyparts.com/14950-c...h=shoppingcart

Fuel cap
PN: 17251-A33B003
http://www.courtesyparts.com/17251-g...h=shoppingcart

I couldn't find anything concrete from searching, hoping these are the correct items, and in the future this may help someone else who is searching.

Oh, trans fluid, I couldn't find it on the courtesy Nissan page, do they carry it? I had thought they did...6MT trans..

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

FWIW those aren't part numbers, just part codes.

Part numbers are as follows;

EVAP CVCV:
14935-5M00A, $85.76 each at Courtesy

Charcoal canister:
14950-4L60C, $173.34 each at Courtesy

Filler cap:
17251-79961, $13.35 each at Courtesy

sc0tty8

iTrader: (1)

Sorry. I updated my orig post with the part numbers.

Is there a difference in the parts that you listed vs the ones I had listed?

Price/description is the same...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You didn't post part numbers, I did. You posted Courtesy's proprietary part naming convention (part code, chassis code, incrementing number).

If you want actual part numbers, see my post; if you want something that can only be used on Courtesy's site and is useless everywhere else, keep what you have.

No, there is no difference.

sc0tty8

iTrader: (1)

Cool.

I want to make sure I get the correct parts.

Thanks for your help

russ29

Do you recommend changing both solinoid and canister for the P0445 SES lights?

rroderiques77

iTrader: (45)

Yes

Mizike

iTrader: (7)

There is already a thread about these 2 very codes. Those are the correct parts, however unless you have money to burn, Id start with the cheapest and go from there. I had the same two codes and fixed my problem by replacing just the evap canister control vavle only. good luck to you.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ml#post7291463

scottygill

iTrader: (8)

REPLACE THE GAS CAP FIRST. THEN SPEND THE 250 OR SO ON THE CANISTER AND VALVE. THERE IS NO HURRY TO FIX THIS PROBLEM, IT HARDLY EFFECTS DRIVING.

GAS CAP FIRST, THATS WHY ITS CALLED THE GAS CAP CODE.

I LEARNED THE HARD WAY

diverdown3

iTrader: (9)

[quote=scottygill;7291958]REPLACE THE GAS CAP FIRST. THEN SPEND THE 250 OR SO ON THE CANISTER AND VALVE. THERE IS NO HURRY TO FIX THIS PROBLEM, IT HARDLY EFFECTS DRIVING.[quote]

Second that on the urgency. I've put about 15,000 miles on my Max since the same codes appeared. Max still performs well.

New cap made no difference for me. Need to pick up the valve and canister as well. Plan to replace the cheapest first, then the second if the codes repeat.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

True, start with the cap. Clean off any visible rust on the filler hole if you see any. Then bite the EVAP canister & valve bullet.

Didn't affect mileage or fuel economy after I replaced all three. But I guess the word 'significantly' should be thrown in there since prior to replacing, the smell of gas was present which means it must be getting out somewhere. It was more of a "gotta get this SES light off for emissions testing" issue.

Mizike

iTrader: (7)

When talking to Dave B. about this problem, he said that most of the time its the valve that needs to be replaced, not the canister. Not to say the canister cant go bad, but usually if its replaced, its because the two small bolts that hold the valve into the canister break off making it difficult to remount the valve onto the canister. If the two bolts can be removed without breaking them off, first replace the valve first since its cheaper than the canister; $83 vs. $165ish. Reset ECU. If the code returns, then buy the canister. Why would you want to replace the canister if its not broken?

I did not have any performance loss due to these codes, nor did I have any fuel smell inside the cabin of the car. I just had to get it fixed quickly because I needed to pass emissions and get tags renewed within the month.

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

I agree...the thing is try to get the valve off the canister BEFORE you order anything. If you can do that without breaking the bolts, it's safe to just grab the valve. However, don't order just the valve & then try to get it off the canister & screw the canister up...which leaves you with zip.

diverdown3

iTrader: (9)

I'm not sure your approach is fully thought out. What if the attempt to unscrew the valve prior to ordering parts results in broken screws? Sounds to me like if the objective is to elliminate the possibility of down-time, one would need to purchase both the canister and the valve, and return unused parts after you're back on the road.

scottygill

iTrader: (8)

I agree to a certain extent, however you will be facing a about a 20% restocking fee for a $175 canister in the SLIM chance that you dont break the canister. (which will break 90% of the time)

I ended up ordering both, and needing both once my canister bolts broke (you will need to buy your new bolts at lowes as they are not supplied with purchase)

booya im officially a "senior (newb) member" 100th post

Tyler947

I just ordered a canister and valve from everythingnissan.com, which had cheaper prices than courtesyparts.com (and gave me a 5% discount) - hopefully this solves my "small leak" code, because the dealer told me there was no way it was just the cap.

Hopefully I can do this myself!

TMoney_87

Just be careful with the bolts that also hold the canister up. They slap very easily too. Don't sweat if you do, last case scenario just secure with some galvanized metal strapping.