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DO NOT direct swap front speakers!

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Old Nov 29, 2001 | 07:59 PM
  #1  
ehughes's Avatar
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DO NOT direct swap front speakers!

I have posted on several threads about how easy it was to install new MB Quart separates in place of the factory fronts. It was great until I could not hear the left front speakers very well. I pulled the door panel and everything was hooked up fine. Then I went back and double checked the ohm rating on the factory mids....2 ohms! My "friend" claimed to have checked his on a 2k2 SE. While I am not 100% sure that that is the problem, I suspect it is. I am going to check the MB's tomorrow and will post as to my findings. Until then hold off on any direct swaps.
Old Nov 29, 2001 | 09:22 PM
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Thanks for the update . . . that's really too bad. You were so psyched about the MB Quart drivers . . . I'm surprised the amp would blow out from a driver with too high an impedance - I know this can happen when the driver impedance is too low though
Old Nov 29, 2001 | 11:54 PM
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Yes, thanks for the info.

But, wait. LOWER ohm ratings for the new speakers would hurt the amps, but a higher ohm rating shouldn't, right? It seems if the originals were 2 ohm, and you replaced them with 4 ohm, the amp would be happier if anything. The higher the ohm rating, the easier the load is to push.
Old Nov 30, 2001 | 12:26 AM
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yeah, i thought the high the resistant, the lower the amps, so the lower the effective load on the amp right?
i'm no super stereo guy, but i've operating with that understanding for my sub box and amp. seems logical to me.
definitely keep us posted on that cuz i may need to rethink some future purchases.
Old Nov 30, 2001 | 01:56 AM
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the problem is the bose amp is a little piece of crap with no ***** that will make your quarts sound awful.. i mean why did u even do it.. your wasting your speakers right now.. you need to replace any thing that says bose on it to have a system that sounds good. replacing just components is very hard if you want it to sound good

Adam
Old Nov 30, 2001 | 07:49 AM
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Using higher resistance speakers in place of stock won't hurt your amp, but it will;

1)Reduce effective power output, so the hi resistance speakers won't go as loud.

2) Hurt frequency response, especially deep bass.

DW


Originally posted by 2k2se6spd
Yes, thanks for the info.

But, wait. LOWER ohm ratings for the new speakers would hurt the amps, but a higher ohm rating shouldn't, right? It seems if the originals were 2 ohm, and you replaced them with 4 ohm, the amp would be happier if anything. The higher the ohm rating, the easier the load is to push.
Old Nov 30, 2001 | 09:19 AM
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OK...I was under the impression, as most of you, that low ohms to a higher ohm rated speaker will not hurt anything other than reduced sound quality. I am not a car stereo installer...obviously.

2000maximaSE..You would be suprised the sound the MBs put out...at first. I have two friends who compete in SPL contests and have installed for years and they thought the speakers sounded damn good for a stock swap.

NOTE...I am not sure what the problem is yet. I will check both ohm rating and speaker level amp ratings to see if maybe I have burned the crossover. I tend to listen to my music loud...alot. So maybe the "little piece of crap.." amp on the factory headunit trashed my speakers and/or crossover. I was reluctant to install a new amp for the doors because I am lazy . Now I will probably install a good amp for the doors. I'll update.
Old Nov 30, 2001 | 09:55 AM
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One thing is for sure. If the Bose amp is noisy, then you could easily burn out a capacitor on the x-over or the even the voice coil on the driver by cranking the volume all the way up. I doubt that any inductors or resistors would burn out though. A high quality after market amplifier should not suffer from that problem though.

Assuming that a new amp is needed, does anyone know what type of output the stock 2K2 Bose head unit has? I've read that older head units put out a "differential ground" type signal. If it's still this style I have read that a special converter might be needed?

Any thoughts?
Old Dec 3, 2001 | 07:24 AM
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Originally posted by ABS
One thing is for sure. If the Bose amp is noisy, then you could easily burn out a capacitor on the x-over or the even the voice coil on the driver by cranking the volume all the way up. I doubt that any inductors or resistors would burn out though. A high quality after market amplifier should not suffer from that problem though.

Assuming that a new amp is needed, does anyone know what type of output the stock 2K2 Bose head unit has? I've read that older head units put out a "differential ground" type signal. If it's still this style I have read that a special converter might be needed?

Any thoughts?
I have not yet determined if the speakers/X-over or the stock amp are bad. However, I bought a new Alpine amp and started my install this weekend , so I will see soon enough.

As for the type of signal output, you may want to call/email Larry Rich at Linkmeup.com. He should have a good understanding since he sells the interface for the 2k2 Bose. I bought one and it works well. Just make sure you terminate the dimming wire on the new harness from the radio...If you leave it, your radio will dim completly out when your headlights come on (not on the instructions).

Good luck.
Old Dec 3, 2001 | 07:29 AM
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Ahh, so you got the PD4, or the PD2? I'm getting th PD-4 this week. Gonna replace my Bose HU with a Clarion 815MP. The audiolink stuff can be a bit pricey, but is still cheaper than the alternatives.

DW


Originally posted by ehughes


I have not yet determined if the speakers/X-over or the stock amp are bad. However, I bought a new Alpine amp and started my install this weekend , so I will see soon enough.

As for the type of signal output, you may want to call/email Larry Rich at Linkmeup.com. He should have a good understanding since he sells the interface for the 2k2 Bose. I bought one and it works well. Just make sure you terminate the dimming wire on the new harness from the radio...If you leave it, your radio will dim completly out when your headlights come on (not on the instructions).

Good luck.
Old Dec 3, 2001 | 07:46 AM
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Originally posted by dwapenyi
Ahh, so you got the PD4, or the PD2? I'm getting th PD-4 this week. Gonna replace my Bose HU with a Clarion 815MP. The audiolink stuff can be a bit pricey, but is still cheaper than the alternatives.

DW
Yeah the PD-4, it was pricey. I have considered a HU swap, but like the look of the stock unit and the steering wheel controls. Do you retain these controls with the Clarion? And does the Clarion fit the entire space left by the stock HU?

Thanks.
Old Dec 3, 2001 | 07:53 AM
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I'm going from Double DIN to single DIN. Aftermarket doesn't seem to see a big market for DoubleDIN units. They are almost always cassette CDs with giant grahical displays, but not much more. The Single DIN ones are always much more capable. I'll be using a metra adaptor to fill the gap and give me an extra pocket below the new unit. As for steering wheel audio controls, my maxima doesn't have any. The Clarion 815MP unit sort of compensates for the audio controls because it has a remote anyway.

DW

Originally posted by ehughes


Yeah the PD-4, it was pricey. I have considered a HU swap, but like the look of the stock unit and the steering wheel controls. Do you retain these controls with the Clarion? And does the Clarion fit the entire space left by the stock HU?

Thanks.
Old Dec 3, 2001 | 09:20 AM
  #13  
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So you're bose then? My impression was the "Premium" system (between GXE and bose) was 4 ohms. Am I wrong?
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