Col Ronson

So after a P0137 and that other BS code (P1147), i now get a P0158 code. Yes i searched and its a oxygen sensor.

Who has done this? any tips? any special instructions?
any way out of this mess
can i ignore it
i have no money by the way
ok im done whining, any creative solutions??

IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

iTrader: (7)

Maybe it's not BS. What is your current mileage and when was the last time you changed the o2 sensors?

Col Ronson

this particular O2 sensor has never been touched. I get 18mpg but i drive in the city 100% of the time.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

Interesting question. Are you implying there's a shelf-life to the O2 Sensor? What do you suppose it is, and would it be based on age or miles?

[edit] miles, not age. A broad range of 50k to 100k.

IHAVEA2KMAXIMA

iTrader: (7)

Sorry I meant how many miles you have on your car.

Col Ronson

104978 miles. O2 sensors ive been led to believe have no shelf life, which angers me as this would be the third O2 sensor i would replace in 6 months. of course seeing by the lack of search results, nobody else has been cursed like i am.

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

According to Wikipedia, there is an average lifetime for the O2 sensor. Go figure.

Interesting reading, for non-engineer types like me...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/O2_sensor

Col Ronson

according to that, all heated oxygen sensors have a life of 100,000 miles. well crap.
i'm not losing any gas mileage for now so ill just ignore it til xmas when i get money

EDIT: How to fix? The Sticky says the P0158 is the Red wired oxygen sensor. Just pull out the old one and plug in a new one. Easy right?

Instructions por favor.

EDIT AGAIN: great. The TSB says replace both rear bank sensors. But when i had my P0147 code a few months ago only the white one was replaced. so all i have to replace is the red one then right?

Any insight folks? =)

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

You have to unscrew the sensor out. You can grab an O2 sensor "socket" which is a large socket with a cutout so that you can put it over the sensor since the wire comes out of it.


I see you're in Arizona so you probably don't have to deal with rust like I do. If you are a rust victim, I suggest throwing some PB at the connection daily a couple days before you go at it. One shot of PB 10 minutes before didn't do it for me.

If you wanna save money, buy the universal fitment sensor - but this requires wire cutting & splicing. The sensors are exactly the same (universal vs. oe fitment)...the universal one just doesn't have a connector/clip at the end of the wire. I'll be doing my Bank 1 Sensor 2 soon & I'll probably take pics if I have time.

Edit: If you do get the universal, make sure the old sensor's connector is good since it'll be reused. If in doubt, just go OE.

Col Ronson

I'll probably do this myself. the Sensor goes for about $145 for OEM. TSB calls for an ECU reprogram. This really isn't necessary is it? after all the other rear bank sensor has been replaced already. rear sensors are such a pain to get to though.

EDIT: are the two rear bank sensors interchangeable? For example can i buy a white harness one and use it instead of the red harness one and vice versa. I'm not going to, i'm just worried i might order the wrong sensor. My understanding is both rear sensors are 4-wire o2 sensors and therefore should be compatible right??

ridinwitha35

iTrader: (1)

Based on a part number comparisons of OE fitment Denso sensors, the fronts are the same harness-wise since there is only one p/n be it the left or right bank. However since I see separate p/ns for rears depending on bank, the harness must be different.

For universals, both rears have the same part number.

Since the harness/connector is the only difference between OE & universal fitment, I would conclude the harnesses for the rears are different. But it may just be something as simple as one having a red connector & the other a white.

Col Ronson

well the red cable is much shorter than the white cable since the white goes with bank 1 which is a much bigger pain and literally a million miles away from bank 2. The red wire just goes to the rear of bank 2 which is right under the main engine. i'm going to ignore it for now because the rear O2s dont affect mpg and emissions is 2 years from now so im not too cracked up about it.

plus p0158 means high voltage monitoring, which means there is pretty much zero oxygen coming out of the front so the cats are doing their jobs.

Dave Holmes

My wife's I30 just started throwing that code along with P0159. Bank 2, sensor 2. I had been monitoring O2 sensors and fuel trims with my scantool for some time now to verify a bad MAF sensor that has since been replaced (and miraculously, my LTFT went from 33% down to +/-10 max! Problem solved...). Anyways, the bank 2 sensor 2, when graphed, always looked "slower" and "flatter" than bank 1 sensor 2 (they're both relatively flat and slow, but bank 2 more so, almost never leaving .250 volts). I even compared hers to my '97 Maxima's sensor 2 with the same effect. Now the code is present, so it's time to change it.
You should not need to change your other rear O2 since it's already been done. I, on the other hand, may need to since mine hasn't been.

Kevin319

iTrader: (1)

I actually have the same code ... it could also be your cats going bad.

2kmax865

I've replaced all the other o2 sensors but this one. Used bosch sensors from Autozone. Part #s with cable colors:

Black Bank 1 Sensor 1 13350 Fed & Calif
White Bank 1 Sensor 2 13969 Fed or 13374 Calif
Blue Bank 2 Sensor 1 13504 Fed or 15955 Calif
Red Bank 2 Sensor 2 13348 Fed & Calif

Col Ronson

Unlikely. its reading high voltage, meaning low oxygen reading. since its rear, that means the cat is still doing its job, the ECU just can't get a proper reading.

I replaced Bank 1 rear sensor already but not Bank 2. I already dished out $1200+ in the past month with that stupid timing chain/faulty coil problem and a broken motor mount.

as long as my mpg stays normal im not going to be too caught up about it. from the looks of it, its not as common as the P0139/P1147 one.

Love_00_Max

O2 have a life of 80-100K, they may not throw a code but they get lazy resulting in low MPG. Source the O2 removal tool for rent from autozone and buy the sensors from www.ngk.com, it is an easy DIY work.

I replaced mine at 80K and now I have 172K. Well past my benchmark of 80K.!!!

ShippedOut

iTrader: (1)

I have these codes as well. I just "reset" them with my code reader and they'll only come back from long highway driving. Never knew it was this common to get these codes

Kevin319

iTrader: (1)

I think we have the opposite effect, I changed my O2 sensors a while back but is getting poor gas mileage because of my cats

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

if these are the secondary o2's why not just spend 40 bucks on a simulator since the secondary o2's dont do anything but monitor

Col Ronson

simulators require constant tinkering which i don't want to do.

i just noticed that all the OEM O2 sensors are made by bosch so i could just buy a bosch one but i don't want to fiddle around with the wiring. you're right, the secondary o2s do nothing but monitor but i won't be passing any emission tests anytime soon with that MIL light on. ill change it out when my next test is due.

1800bucks

iTrader: (8)

I realize this posting is about 4 months old, but using the search button has led me here. I've had a CEL for a while now, 3 months, had my TRE's replaced and had the car scanned which brought up the P0158 code. Will this affect the way the car runs when it's cold? After the car has been sitting all day at work, I start it, let it run for a minute or two, then leave. The car feels funny, like it's riding on square tires, like a back and forth surging, would this have anything to do whith the O2 needing replacement? I don't have this issue once the car is warmed to normal operating temps.

e-subliminal-2

iTrader: (7)

No, secondary o2's will not effect the way your car runs. I'm currently fighting this sensor problem, However i'm starting to understand the only solution is a new o2 sensor.

SuperStasiu

iTrader: (3)

nope, but we need more info on your car like mileage, also whens the last time you did a tune up ie plugs, belts, air filter, whens the last time you cleaned out your throttle body. Also whens the last time you got the CEL checked maybe its for something else also now that could contribute to your square tire feeling, or maybe you got crappy suspension and crappy tires lol

e-subliminal-2

iTrader: (7)

Man, Buy the 10 ohm resistors and call it a dya. That's what i'm about to do.

1800bucks

iTrader: (8)

I'm just about ready to buy the damn sensor. The wife and I are in the process of seperating, so money is obviously a major issue. As far as what has been done; well let's see.....NOTHING. Since I need to be very careful with my money, I'm not about to go out and drop a crap load of coin replacing things that do not warrant replacing. I've played this "chasing good money after bad money" game when I was younger to track down an issue only to realize later I pissed my money away. The CEL came on, it reads P0158. That in and of itself tells me I need to replace that particular sensor. The car has 106K on it and so far it's a friggin money pit. It was bought in Nov of '08 and has only been driven less than 8K miles in that time.

I don't mean to come across like an ungrateful @ss when looking for a solution to the CEL light, I just want to try to fix the bare minimum I have to so I can get by for the time being.

Thanks

Bonez21

iTrader: (1)

Well here's my story, i just recently helped my gf buy an 00 GLE and she currently has the same code. Of course when we purchased the car the SES light wasn't on but to make a long story short....I've been doing tons of research on this particular issue for the past few weeks and to be quite honest with you, there doesn't seem to be a "simple" solution to this problem. IMHO if the car rides fine and still gets good gas mileage it isn't worth it to troubleshoot this issue if you don't have the time/money to invest because you'll need just that as well as a crapload of patience to deal with this issue.

The way i see it, she'll just have to deal with the SES light until inspection time rolls around but until then it just isn't worth it...

e-subliminal-2

iTrader: (7)

If money is tight, And you're keeping your car. Buy an o2 sim. And buy resistors. $50.00 will replace both your o2 secondary sensors and will eliminate the cel.

Jarad

iTrader: (2)

If you don't want to rent/buy the special 02 tool, you can use a 22mm wrench. Don't get to torque happy though

bin01123

"I just replaced my my O2 Sensor after I got a PO158 code. Do I need to reset the car's CPU as well or will the light go out after a period of time?"

rj6031570

Had a P0138 and used Seafoam in the gas tank which cleans out fuel system including the sensors. Ran it for 1/4 tank and reset the ECU cleared the code and hasn't returned. I have 97,000 on these and they are original o2 sensors. Worth $10 for a bottle before the pain of replacing a sensor.

sontakke

Sorry to bump an old thread but I am wondering how many of you have got P0158 (heater circuit on bank 2 rear sensor) code even though you already had an anti-fouler installed years ago? Why would I want to replace that sensor? I am fooling it anyway! I do want that stupid CEL to go away though. Replacing rear O2 sensor sounds like throwing away good money.