Replacing control arm
#1
Replacing control arm
So i bent my lower control arm on a 2000 nissan maxima. Was wondering how hard is it to replace and if anybody had a how-to?
Also what tools are neccesary for the job.
Thanks
Also what tools are neccesary for the job.
Thanks
#2
It's doable in your driveway with jack stands. I believe it's easier to allow both front wheels to be raised so the sway bar links have less tension when removing them. There are a bunch of 22mm bolts that need to be removed along with the ball joint nut.
How'd you bend your LCA? Are you sure it's out of whack?
How'd you bend your LCA? Are you sure it's out of whack?
#4
It's doable in your driveway with jack stands. I believe it's easier to allow both front wheels to be raised so the sway bar links have less tension when removing them. There are a bunch of 22mm bolts that need to be removed along with the ball joint nut.
How'd you bend your LCA? Are you sure it's out of whack?
How'd you bend your LCA? Are you sure it's out of whack?
Alright cool thanks!
#5
Update: New lower control arm is put on.
Went to get it aligned and am still at 2.61 degrees the shop told me to buy and install a new strut and on the way out was stopped by a guy inside that was a customer there. He said he is an insurance adjuster and odds are i bent my engine cradle, and i should think about calling my insurance company.
So what do you guys suggest new strut or to call insurance?
Went to get it aligned and am still at 2.61 degrees the shop told me to buy and install a new strut and on the way out was stopped by a guy inside that was a customer there. He said he is an insurance adjuster and odds are i bent my engine cradle, and i should think about calling my insurance company.
So what do you guys suggest new strut or to call insurance?
#6
Not hard. You can get the control arm with bushings and Ball joint. I would look for a control arm with a push in Ball Joint instead of a bolt on. Make sure you have the car securely jacked up. You will probably have to compress the springs a bit. Be careful getting the Ball joint bolt off, use a good wrench, they are pretty soft metal. Lastly make sure you have a breaker Bar because those nuts are really on there. And try to stay out from under the car when putting that much pressure on the wrench to be safe. Put it back on with a large Tourque Wrench, you do not want that part coming off
#7
lower control arm replacement
While sliding down the icy road I slammed my right front tire against the curb. The lower control arm is bent and the sway bar link broke.
I have all the tools to replace these parts. I replaced the discs, pads and strut assemblies last summer so I know the bascis of the front suspension.
These are the FSM instructions on replacing the lower control arm:
Please also recommend a lower control arm set that comes with the ball joint and bushings and an online site to buy it from. I'll probably buy the moog sway bar link.
I'll be flooding these rusted bolts with PB blaster and use a blow torch if nessecary. I'll apply anti-seize to those high torqued nuts & bolts.
I have all the tools to replace these parts. I replaced the discs, pads and strut assemblies last summer so I know the bascis of the front suspension.
These are the FSM instructions on replacing the lower control arm:
- Remove wheel bearing lock nut
- Remove tie rod ball joint
- Remove strut assembly fixing nuts and bolts from knuckle
- Separate drive shaft from knuckle by slightly tapping the drive shaft end
- Separate lower ball joint stud from knuckle with suitable tool.
- Remove lower control arm fixing bolts
- Remove lower control arm and lower ball joint
- During installation final tightening must be carried out at curb weight with tires on the ground
Please also recommend a lower control arm set that comes with the ball joint and bushings and an online site to buy it from. I'll probably buy the moog sway bar link.
I'll be flooding these rusted bolts with PB blaster and use a blow torch if nessecary. I'll apply anti-seize to those high torqued nuts & bolts.
#8
Regarding the "suitable tool":
I think they're most likely talking about a pickle fork that you wedge between the control arm & knuckle, and hammer a bit til they separate (that is, after you get the nut off). Personally, getting the nut off was the hard part; don't recall having to do anything special to separate the knuckle/ball joint - or maybe mine was that jacked up/loose.
I think they're most likely talking about a pickle fork that you wedge between the control arm & knuckle, and hammer a bit til they separate (that is, after you get the nut off). Personally, getting the nut off was the hard part; don't recall having to do anything special to separate the knuckle/ball joint - or maybe mine was that jacked up/loose.
#11
Can I break loose (not remove) the wheel locknut before I raise the car? It requires so much torque it seems impossible to break loose with the wheels raised. I'll try using my 1/2" breaker bar with a craftsman 23mm socket.
I just ordered a mevotech lower control arm and a moog sway bar link. They both include the bushings. I'll stop by at autozone and ask them about that tool to seperate the knuckle and lower ball joint.
Thanks for your help ridinwitha35
I just ordered a mevotech lower control arm and a moog sway bar link. They both include the bushings. I'll stop by at autozone and ask them about that tool to seperate the knuckle and lower ball joint.
Thanks for your help ridinwitha35
Regarding the "suitable tool":
I think they're most likely talking about a pickle fork that you wedge between the control arm & knuckle, and hammer a bit til they separate (that is, after you get the nut off). Personally, getting the nut off was the hard part; don't recall having to do anything special to separate the knuckle/ball joint - or maybe mine was that jacked up/loose.
I think they're most likely talking about a pickle fork that you wedge between the control arm & knuckle, and hammer a bit til they separate (that is, after you get the nut off). Personally, getting the nut off was the hard part; don't recall having to do anything special to separate the knuckle/ball joint - or maybe mine was that jacked up/loose.
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