Install done, pics later in thread.

Going to be doing the swap on Saturday. I went with a clutchmasters 13.1lb flywheel and clutchmasters stage 4 6-puck.

I'm looking for pointers, tips, information from those who have done this.

Items I have gathered for this:
10mm-19mm sockets, wrenches, gear rachets.
36mm socket for axle nut (hoping this is the right size)
Pilot bearing remover + slide hammer
Torque wrench + breaker bar + impact gun
T55 Torx socket
Lithium grease
3 QTs of GL-4 75W-90
Dot 3 brake fluid
FSM for torque specs

I have plenty of other tools, but I believe these are the main items needed. PLEASE correct me if I am wrong.

A few questions:

Alignment of the flywheel, how does this work? What/where do I need to mark and look for? Included closeup pictures of the flywheel.

Any tricks with the pilot bushing? Do I really need to replace it???

Any other tips/tricks or warnings? I hate it that I have no instructions!

 

there are some installed pics in this thread..

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...seal-pics.html

 

Thanks. I found that thread but didn't really see anything useful about the flywheel/pilot bushing and such that are my main concerns.

 

Also, I hear that the fidanza should have 2 alignment holes... but I am only seeing one. Maybe this is a new design?

 

Actually come to find out... This is a clutchmasters flywheel. I guess cattman got my order wrong

Hopefully it still does the job right... ugh. It's the right P/N for my car, and they have decent reviews... Guess I will just roll with it.

 

dammm good to know..

 

You got an answer to my pilot bushing question??

 

I always thought you replaced the pilot bushing when u replaced the clutch. thats why it comes with it.

 

Replace it. I don't know what type of tool you'll need for removal, but you may be able to 'borrow' one from Autozone.

Simplified installation steps:

-install the pilot bushing (lightly grease the ID)
-install flywheel (ensure proper alignment)
-use alignment tool to hold friction disc in place
-loosely install pressure plate
-center the friction disc as best you can (if alignment tool has slop)
-tighten pressure plate
-install throw-out bearing and lever arm (cannot recall correct name; grease contact areas)
-grease transmission input shaft
-bench press transmission into place like a man (swearing a beer is allowed; may require multiple painful and frustrating attempts; use a jack to cheat)
-bolt transmission in place
-drink a beer, you've come far and deserve it
-reinstall all the things removed to get transmission out (including clutch hydraulics, axles, axle nuts, etc...)
-fill with GL-4 fluid of your choice (I like Amsoil; the square bottles make me feel special)
-make sure everything is properly torqued
-test drive (if sober)

Other tip, use the FSM for guidance; it sucks in general, but has the necessary torque specifications. The FSM has information on flywheel 'alignment' which appears as easy as using matching up the flywheel's 7th hole with a pin on the crankshaft. The alignment should be evident when removing the original.

 

make sure the tiny flat head screws on the friction surface of the flywheel are tight.

 

hhhmmm i've never done a clutch on a 5th gen yet, so i'm not sure specifically.

i HAVE done clutches on other cars ( SR20's, Honda ) and have never installed a new pilot bushing. There is a tool that you use to get it out, but if it isn't scored or damaged, i don't see why replace it. I guess since you will be replacing the FW it would be easier to get to , and you're already there so why not ?


I'd say the most important torque spec is for the FW to crank bolts and the pressure plate to FW bolts. And maybe the axle nut too.

 

Thanks. I'm just going to replace it... doesn't seem so hard with the removal tool.

 

8 hours after breaking the first wheel lug loose, and it's alive!

First impressions:

-install was easier than headers because there were no hangups like the dreaded heatshield bolts.

-revs noticeably faster... makes it sound pretty cool.

-clutch engagement point is VERY obvious just on the pedal throw. Stock was just mush all the way to the floor... Loving this!!!

-pedal effort is considerably less than stock until you reach the dis-engagment point about 3/4" from the floor, and you can start to feel resistance a little more than stock.

-It's going to take a good bit of getting used to since it engages about 1/4" off the floor and is much more on/off than the stock one, BUT it was easy to drive on the street, no chatter, a little shudder if I launched too low.

-With such an obvious engagement point and it being so close to the floor, I am going to gain MPH at the track from faster shifts... already sure of it.

I took a few pictures during, but I am extremely tired and I'll post them tomorrow or later tonight... Out of shape + clutch/fw install = rough!

 

replace your rear main seal while you there even though you may not need to

 

glad to hear you got it done.

a lightened FW is really one of the best mods available, fast revs to redline FTW!!

when i had my Fidanza on m y SR20, it would rev to redline so fast i would sometimes not even realize i got there so fast...

also keep in mind, less mass on the crank means longer engine life

 

I'm also hoping less weight shocking the axles might increase their life a little... 5k clutch dumps with this clutch on slicks are going to make my axles the weakest link, I'm afraid.

It revs soo much faster... Next step I hit a dealership and pay somebody 20 bucks to raise my idle to about 850-900rpms, then put on the 1.5lb UDP. That should make it rev even quicker.

 

Did my first WOT run today in 1st, then an easy shift into 2nd and WOT again... Feels a good deal faster than it did last week in lower temperatures. The stock clutch was completely disintegrated, just metal on metal, so I guess the clutch holding better is making it feel quicker.

Going to avoid any hard launches or hard shifts for about 100 more miles of city/daily driving then retune if I need to and let it loose at a local 1/8th mile track. Need a lot of practice... lol

 

i see the lightweight flyhweel doesn't have the bras timing ring, does your CEL come on?


reason why i ask is because it looks like my FW timing ring is damaged/missing teeth and i am having a hard start issue/extended crank and dtcP1336

 

I'm not sure what you are looking at... but it does have a timing ring. It MUST have a timing ring...

Startup is a little bit louder/quicker than it was with the stock FW and it revs much faster. That is the only real differences I've detected thus far.

 

does it sit behind the FW?

because i don't see it in this pic?


or did you just remove it from the old FW and just reuse it?

 

Nothing was removed and reused from the stock stuff, no codes.

 

ok so the new FW already had the timing ring?


just wondering because i suspect mine is damaged and the sensor isn't picking up all the teeth thus resulting in hard start ..


i'll have to do more research

 

Here... Both flywheels have the timing ring in identical locations. The car wouldn't even start if the aftermarket flywheel wasn't identical in important dimensions to the stock one.

Notice the timing/starter ring is exactly the same on each flywheel.

stock


clutchmasters

 

/\ that setup looks like sex man.

and thanks i think i get it now

 

Yeah I can't wait to do some fast shifts with it. Clutchmasters says just a few starts from a stop is enough to break in the ceramic clutch and it's good for track/dyno or w/e, but I am going to give it about 100 miles just to feel safe.

 

It's been a long while since I've been on the org but I'm tired of having clutch issues and came back to do some research. I was wondering why you chose to go with a stage four clutch. Not questioning your decision by any means, I'm just trying to decide what to go with my setup. I also have a fidanza flywheel but have used an exedy "replacement" clutch that I burnt up quickly (had oil leaking from the rear main seal and also pressure plate was lighter than stock, not good.) I went back to my stock clutch and it did good for a bit but today I redlined in third only doing 60 from a hard start.....

Anyway, long story short, I'm tired of f'n with the clutch situation and want a long term solution. I was thinking about just getting a stage one, i.e.: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...Q5fAccessories

but I'm leary and wonder if I should go for a higher stage. Any info would help. My setup is in my sig.

Oh, and I'm not trying to hijack your thread, sorry bout that. YOur setup looks wicked, btw. Thanks!

 

I chose the stage 4 clutch because I do hard launches at the drag strip on slicks, although a stage 3 "could" hold up to it, the stage 4 is said to handle abuse much better.

Just make sure you don't get anything kevlar, IMO. It's cool stuff, but the heating properties of it make me very weary of it. Glazed your kevlar clutch? Yeah it's done...

 

Nice. Very useful info. Oh, and I was wrong about my flywheel, I have the unorthodox racing version.

 

That is not a flywheel, that is a crank pulley. The only Flywheels available directly for the maxima is the clutchmasters and fidanza, although most 350Z ones work also afaik.

 

http://alamoautosports.com/unorthodo...l/g-55507.aspx

I'm pretty sure that it's the UR flywheel, I can go back into my records to check, no biggie. I have the 3.0 vq. I never replaced the underdrive pulley or anything like that, read concerns about all that and I've got enough to deal with as is.

 

Oh you're talking about a 3.0... whole different territory and I couldn't care less

 

Word, I appreciate the insight anyway.

 

I've been looking into doing a flywheel/clutch upgrade as well and can't decide on what setup to go with. Doesn't Spec, Stillen & Jim Wolf make Maxima specific flywheels too? The only problem is I can't find the specs on them. I've been trying to find the weights for each and only found 3...

Fidanza-13.5 lbs
ClutchMasters-13 lbs
Spec-10.5 lbs (as per ultrarev.com)

The Stillen has the lowest price that I've seen so far though...

 

Well I was replacing it in a 5.5 gen... Like has been said earlier in this thread, that's a totally different ordeal than your 3.0...

 

Well then, you have very few choices of flywheel if you're using a 6-speed.

 

I am and I know, but I was looking for the specs on the options I have.

I know the weights on the Spec, Fidanza, and Clutch Masters but i cant find anything on the Stillen or Jim Wolf. I pretty much have my mind made up on what clutch I want (Spec stage 3), I'm just lost as to what FlyW to go with...

 

I'm not sure you understand what I'm saying... can you show me links to the spec, stillen, and JWT flywheels for the 6 speed/3.5?

I just haven't seen ANYBODY use those brands on a 3.5... Just the findanza/CM.

Also, why not just call the manufacturer and ask them....? Is there some reason you can't do that?

 

You know I should have thought of that...


the Spec i saw here http://www.ultrarev.com/spec-aluminu...eel-sn85a.html

I just found the weight on the JWT here http://www.mynismo.com/products/?id=3194

and the Stillen http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?i...Y01&c=PE&m=all

The Spec is the lightest I've seen so far, though I think 10.5 lbs might be a little too light...
I will be calling Stillen tomorrow...

 

ever find the weight on the stillen?

edit: nevermind, just found the weight for the z and its 14.25lb, i would assume the max flywheel is the same. looks like im going to guinea pig the spec flywheel

 

I was thinking the same thing, that quoted weight is sick but I'm just worried about drivability issues.