My friend is having some power loss issues with his 5.5 gen. The ecu is throwing codes P1147 and P0139. From what I've read, the codes mean that bank 1, O2 sensor 2 is bad. The car runs fine except that it has no power above 3k rpm and it seems that it won't rev past 4k rpm (under load). When it reaches 4k rpm the engine makes a loud rattling noise that is very similar to severe pinging (detonation).

I've searched for a definitive answer and can't seem to find one. IMO, I think that it has a clogged cat or a bad maf. Maybe the bad O2 sensor is related to what caused the power loss?? What do you guys think is causing this loss in power?

if the car wont rev it might be a bad MAF. dont think a bad o2 would keep the car from reving. some ppl drive with the rears not in when they get headers and it doesn't have that problem.

Bad MAF or knock sensor-shouldn't be pinging like that.

Just a quick update, 505max94se is giving me a hand with troubleshooting this.

I've got a used MAF on the way, eta March 3rd and Dave B informed me to replace the fuel filter if I change the MAF. A friend of mine says 100% this problem can be caused by a plugged fuel filter.

I plan on swapping the MAF and road testing. If problem is resolved YAY. If not, I'll replace my fuel filter and re-test.

I once had a van that the cat was pluged up, and it would idle fine then start off ok, then once thr revs came up it had no power. It was giving an O2 sensor code.

The catalytic converter is last on my list, after the MAF/Fuel filter I'm going to drop in the new bank 2 rear oxygen sensor. Then I must pay a Nissan Stealership $130 for an ECM flash/update so the P1147 and P0139 threshold is slightly higher.

If I still get problems then we can look into pulling the catalytic converters down and take a look.

Did I mention I hate Cali-spec emissions?

I was going to send you a pm and suggest replacing the maf because it's easy and could very well be the problem, but It looks like you already on the right track.

For some reason, I thought you said that you replaced the fuel filter recently. A fuel filter could DEFINITELY cause the problem that you are having. Not enough fuel flow would cause a lean condition and result in power loss and pinging. A fuel filter is probably pretty cheap and it's pretty easy to install.

Would it make more sense to try the new fuel filter and see if the problem is resolved?

I just remembered that the fuel filter is located in the fuel tank next to the pump. This makes it a little more difficult to change or inspect than I was thinking. Since you already have a maf on the way, just wait and see if that fixes your problem first.

I got the used MAF and fuel filter + o-ring both on the way. I only know the ETA of the MAF is March 3rd, fuel filter I have no idea when it'll arrive. But it's being shipped from Texas so it could arrive a day or two sooner?

Only thing I'm worried about with the new fuel filter is releasing the fuel system pressure, and getting those tabs to play nice on the fuel pump.

Releasing fuel pressure is pretty easy. You just remove the fuel pump fuse and start the engine. Let it die and try to start it a few more times.

A hook tool set would probably be helpful for getting those tabs off.

I'm probably going to make an attempt to get some hi-res photos when I take on replacing the fuel filter. Also should anyone be following the thread, here's a HOW-TO for the fuel filter replacement http://www.shiftice.com/fuel_filter.html

If the filter is clogging things up so bad to affect pressure, wouldn't it be easier to check the fuel pressure? Should be just a matter of putting a guage on the fuel rail somewhere. Schrader valve?

I thought about that, but the engine runs fine at idle, light load, and low rpm. If the filter is clogged, it's probably just slightly clogged and a fuel pressure gauge would probably show a correct reading at idle and light load. I guess it's worth a try though.

hey man i have the same problem but im throwing a p0420 and p0507.... i changed the plugs and the 1s i took out was a little wet and smell like gas... so it has to be running rich... so i thing i got a plugged up cat....

so i ran out of gas about 2-3 months ago but still made it to a gas station. ever since then my car has been idling and driving funny...like it sometimes wont let me rev pass 2k when driving. idle is fine...some times it will bog down and then go back. i think it may be the fuel filter...hopefully. ive changed the MAF and i have o2 sensors on the way. i pray this solves this problem. hope your car gets better two bro...

Do you have a 2000 maxima or 2002?

Oh crap, haha I cannot believe I overlooked that.

I once tried to drive home with ultra low fuel left, in fact the engine even stalled. I managed to start the engine not once but TWO times and made it to a gas station. Then years later I made the same mistake again, tried pushing how far I can drive on empty.

Simple story which I hope works for me; get a new fuel pump from Dave B. Soon as I get some cash flow, I am going to drop in the new fuel pump. Unless the used MAF or Fuel Filter resolves this drivability problem.

i have an 5.5 gen.

Yeah, let us know how that goes. i keep thinking to myself that i need a new fuel pump after that. im going to buy a new filter this week and put it in and pray that it fixes my problem.

Dang see what I get for not quoting when replying, I was asking dexmax5.5 what year Maxima haha.

I'm positive Nissan says not to allow the fuel pump to operate when there is very very low fuel. I really hope the fuel filter OR the used MAF takes care of my problem. But if not the fuel pump is next on the list.

I will surely update after I install the parts.

i got 02

i jus pick this thing up 2 weeks ago for a great deal but i cant figure out this problem... im a honda guy but love the 5.5 maxima`s 6spd so i had to get 1 for a daily driver

If you have a 2002, then find the codes in here http://www.mediafire.com/file/klnedycjdlu/EC.pdf and follow what is suggested.

You can also search the 5th Gen forums for the code(s) and see what others have done.

yea i kno wat codes they are... jus want to make sure that its the cat and nothing else

You won’t know until you remove the catalytic converters and inspect them.

I had exact problem ...would rev in park fine,...but a under load at 3500-4000 rpms it lost all power and nose dives ...as long as I drove below 3500 it was fine...I replaced the MAF and all power was back to redline...bought the MAF insert for 73 bucks off ebay took all of 5 min to replace....I had alot of pinging too...even with 93 and its gone now too...

MAF every time haha

Used MAF installed and still experience slight/moderate power loss while going up hills. New fuel filter installed, still experience the power loss. Though the car does feel a LITTLE smoother with the new fuel filter. Acceleration feels almost like gliding, its a cool feeling.

I used a bucket to drain the old fuel filter, there was so much sediment in that fuel it wasn't funny. Looked like I was panning for gold.

If you have over 80,000 miles and have not changed the fuel filter. DO IT.

So next thing to do is let a shop check the catalytic converters. I had a guy in a parts store to run octane booster and the autozone guy swore up and down its the throttle position sensor.

With a tank of shell v-power, over the weekend I managed to hit 90 which makes me think the power loss is related to the lower octane fuel I was using.

you were using less than 91 octane fuel this whole time??

yup was using 87 since 2004 without ANY power loss or problems until this year.

interesting.. so are you completely cured now, or what?

The power has returned but I won't be happy until I know there are no failed parts.

The guy I bought my car from was using 87 too. It's not good for this engine.

I have since put in a few tanks of 91 and 94 and feels like a new car. (Just like it should though)

Probably be a good idea to reset the ECU now that you are running the proper octane gas. I know it helped the V6 626 I used to have when I did that after switching to the recommended premium fuel.

one of my pre-cats (front one) fell apart and actually clogged my main cat (the one after the 2 precats) and was causing massive hesitation and lag around 3.5k. it just felt like the car was straining just to go up to 3k, there was also quite a bit of rattling. I see some time has passed but just sharing a past experience

It's a possibility but can't say for certain until they come off the car and are inspected.

Using the higher octane helps slightly, but until the catalytic converters are looked at it's only a band-aid.

As I was reading the original post by 505max94se, I was getting all giddy thinking: "yes someone with the exact same problem I have and quite possibly an answer or solution". Here's a bit of background info:
2003 Maxima (manual) 74k miles.
Been sitting around for about 1.3 years not being driven; was bought at an auction.
Replaced clutch and some suspension components.
Your description of the problem with RR5's maxima is word for word what I'm experiencing. I can be out of gear, sitting still and when I rev it quickly to about 4.5k I hear a terrible pinging/rattling, as someone else described it "it's like a metal coffee can quarter filled with nuts and bolts and muffled in a towel, and shaken a few times".
While I'm driving I experience severe hesitation particularly after about 3.5 k in all of first 3 gears, never took it into 4th yet (no title, and I don't want to push my luck with the cops on the main streets).
I swapped in a working MAF sensor, problem's still there.
I tried a stock vs. K&N cold air intake, problem is still there.
One thing I forgot to mention, previous owner installed a cat-back stainless-looking exhaust system that looks fitting for a civic, but I can't see how that would be the cause, apart from it looking hideous.
My first thought is the cat, not sure which one though. I had my wife accelerate and rev up from 5 - 6.5k a few times without letting the revs drop below 5k, and it seems to do it even more persistently then. At that same time I was watching the main cat and listening for the noise and it seemed louder there than at any other place, 2nd loudest was while listening from up above near the firewall and intake manifold.
Fuel filters are cheap and easy to replace, but I somehow doubt that it would be that simple. Any suggestions would be great, thanks.

Are there any stored DTC in the ECM? I did have a slight metal rattle sound if the engine was given revs while in park or neutral. Quick rev and as the RPM needle drops you get a rattle sound.

I had codes for both rear oxygen sensors which I replaced then I got a code for the bank 1 pre-cat.

Got the bank 1 pre-cat replaced and the catalyst material inside the cat was loose. The engine simply feels better, no more rattle sound when the engine is revved in park or neutral.

I'm trying to make time to take photos of the cat, but right now it looks to be a weekend job.

Without having any codes stored in the ECM, you'll be guessing at what to replace. Only suggestion I have is to get the car to an experienced mechanic and get ready to pay for a couple hours worth for a diagnosis. Sensor data will have to be read and compared to make a best guess at what is causing the power loss.