2000 Maxima maintenance
#1
2000 Maxima maintenance
I found the section on buying a 5th generation Maxima useless so am posting in this section.
I own a 4th Gen and have had it since day 1. It is a 5-speed manual and I don't profess to know too much about automatic transmissions.
I am looking at buying a 5th Gen (2000SE - Automatic) for my wife. It has been traded in at a stealership.
I am getting conflicting information from the dealership it is coming from.
How often do most members:
1) flush/replace tranny fluid
2) flush power steering fluid
3) when do 02 sensors typically fail
4) fuel injection flushes
I have never once flushed my fuel injection system. Various dealeships I called had a recommendation of either every 25k or 30k miles.
When I used to get mine serviced under warranty they used a BG02 product.
I have used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner before and Gumout Regane once.
I question the need for fuel injection system flushing. One dealership says it cleans the throttle body at the same time. Is this true?
Any help on these maintenance intervals would help.
I know the 5th Gens put out more hp than the 4th Gens. I believe the engines are the same, but the exhaust systems in the 5th Gen are less restrictive. Does that give rise to the increased hp for the 5th Gen?
I have a Budget y-pipe for my 4th Gen and a K&N panel filter. Are K&N filters available/advisable for 5th Gens.
Thanks for the apparently noob questions for someone of my post count but I haven't been on the board much for the last 2 years and never came on the 5the 5th Gen forum much.
I own a 4th Gen and have had it since day 1. It is a 5-speed manual and I don't profess to know too much about automatic transmissions.
I am looking at buying a 5th Gen (2000SE - Automatic) for my wife. It has been traded in at a stealership.
I am getting conflicting information from the dealership it is coming from.
How often do most members:
1) flush/replace tranny fluid
2) flush power steering fluid
3) when do 02 sensors typically fail
4) fuel injection flushes
I have never once flushed my fuel injection system. Various dealeships I called had a recommendation of either every 25k or 30k miles.
When I used to get mine serviced under warranty they used a BG02 product.
I have used Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner before and Gumout Regane once.
I question the need for fuel injection system flushing. One dealership says it cleans the throttle body at the same time. Is this true?
Any help on these maintenance intervals would help.
I know the 5th Gens put out more hp than the 4th Gens. I believe the engines are the same, but the exhaust systems in the 5th Gen are less restrictive. Does that give rise to the increased hp for the 5th Gen?
I have a Budget y-pipe for my 4th Gen and a K&N panel filter. Are K&N filters available/advisable for 5th Gens.
Thanks for the apparently noob questions for someone of my post count but I haven't been on the board much for the last 2 years and never came on the 5the 5th Gen forum much.
#2
Tranny flush, if you ever decided to do it is around 80k miles, but im sure everone has a different opinion on that.
I had an o2 sensor fail, it was a rear sensor so Im not worrying about it. Im at 70k miles but im running rich and have no cat or pre cats.
K&N makes panel filters or you can do a short ram
5th gens are fast because of the variable intake, which tends to fail. There is a fix for it. Only kicks on at 5k rpm and adds around 30hp.
I had an o2 sensor fail, it was a rear sensor so Im not worrying about it. Im at 70k miles but im running rich and have no cat or pre cats.
K&N makes panel filters or you can do a short ram
5th gens are fast because of the variable intake, which tends to fail. There is a fix for it. Only kicks on at 5k rpm and adds around 30hp.
#3
There is no required fuel injector cleaning per service manual so the dealers just want your extra money.
Replace the power steering fluid if really dirty or burnt smelling. Takes about 15 mins with turkey baster.
I replaced my tranny fluid at about 70k miles. It was still decent fluid, just did it because I was bored. They tell you to inspect and replace if necessary, every 30k miles or so.
Replace the power steering fluid if really dirty or burnt smelling. Takes about 15 mins with turkey baster.
I replaced my tranny fluid at about 70k miles. It was still decent fluid, just did it because I was bored. They tell you to inspect and replace if necessary, every 30k miles or so.
#4
I have 140,000 miles on my 2K . I got it a little over a month ago(had 136,000 on it when I got it) I changed the plugs as they were a little worn but thats about all I have done as far as motor and tranny maintance. The battery turminal was corroded badly(I changed it already) and the struts are shot(oh also had to change the rear beam link rod thingy). So I am sure the tranny fluid hasnt been changed in a while. Thanks for reminding me about that. I guess i will have to do that this weekend. Any other things thats should be checked?
#6
We are going to buy this vehicle. It needs a new front windshield and we are picking the car up on Saturday after that is done.
I would rate the exterior and interior as being 9 out of 10. It was serviced at the dealer religiously up to 61,000 miles, but I don't have the maintenance record beyond that. It now has 84,000 miles on it.
The tranny fluid was flushed at the dealer at 31k and I don't know if it was flushed after 84k. The dealer did a 106 point inspection on the vehicle and said the tranny fluid is good to go. I think I will get a 2nd opinion after we buy it.
The power steering fluid was replaced at 32k and looks to me as though it should be replaced again. I think I will do the turkey baster method on it myself.
The car has traction control. I take it that should only be turned on in slippery road conditions. Is that just snow and ice, or rain as well? It should be shut off under dry road conditions, right?
I would rate the exterior and interior as being 9 out of 10. It was serviced at the dealer religiously up to 61,000 miles, but I don't have the maintenance record beyond that. It now has 84,000 miles on it.
The tranny fluid was flushed at the dealer at 31k and I don't know if it was flushed after 84k. The dealer did a 106 point inspection on the vehicle and said the tranny fluid is good to go. I think I will get a 2nd opinion after we buy it.
The power steering fluid was replaced at 32k and looks to me as though it should be replaced again. I think I will do the turkey baster method on it myself.
The car has traction control. I take it that should only be turned on in slippery road conditions. Is that just snow and ice, or rain as well? It should be shut off under dry road conditions, right?
#7
I keep the traction control on in my wifes car. It doesnt hurt anything. It stops me from spinning the tires at a stop light when I relize the light is green instead of red.
I will get the fluid and filter for the tranny today and get it done. I will also do the powersteering fluid
I will get the fluid and filter for the tranny today and get it done. I will also do the powersteering fluid
#8
We are going to buy this vehicle. It needs a new front windshield and we are picking the car up on Saturday after that is done.
I would rate the exterior and interior as being 9 out of 10. It was serviced at the dealer religiously up to 61,000 miles, but I don't have the maintenance record beyond that. It now has 84,000 miles on it.
The tranny fluid was flushed at the dealer at 31k and I don't know if it was flushed after 84k. The dealer did a 106 point inspection on the vehicle and said the tranny fluid is good to go. I think I will get a 2nd opinion after we buy it.
The power steering fluid was replaced at 32k and looks to me as though it should be replaced again. I think I will do the turkey baster method on it myself.
The car has traction control. I take it that should only be turned on in slippery road conditions. Is that just snow and ice, or rain as well? It should be shut off under dry road conditions, right?
I would rate the exterior and interior as being 9 out of 10. It was serviced at the dealer religiously up to 61,000 miles, but I don't have the maintenance record beyond that. It now has 84,000 miles on it.
The tranny fluid was flushed at the dealer at 31k and I don't know if it was flushed after 84k. The dealer did a 106 point inspection on the vehicle and said the tranny fluid is good to go. I think I will get a 2nd opinion after we buy it.
The power steering fluid was replaced at 32k and looks to me as though it should be replaced again. I think I will do the turkey baster method on it myself.
The car has traction control. I take it that should only be turned on in slippery road conditions. Is that just snow and ice, or rain as well? It should be shut off under dry road conditions, right?
#9
We are going to buy this vehicle. It needs a new front windshield and we are picking the car up on Saturday after that is done.
I would rate the exterior and interior as being 9 out of 10. It was serviced at the dealer religiously up to 61,000 miles, but I don't have the maintenance record beyond that. It now has 84,000 miles on it.
I would rate the exterior and interior as being 9 out of 10. It was serviced at the dealer religiously up to 61,000 miles, but I don't have the maintenance record beyond that. It now has 84,000 miles on it.
The tranny fluid was flushed at the dealer at 31k and I don't know if it was flushed after 84k. The dealer did a 106 point inspection on the vehicle and said the tranny fluid is good to go. I think I will get a 2nd opinion after we buy it.
The power steering fluid was replaced at 32k and looks to me as though it should be replaced again. I think I will do the turkey baster method on it myself.
The car has traction control. I take it that should only be turned on in slippery road conditions. Is that just snow and ice, or rain as well? It should be shut off under dry road conditions, right?
#10
I normally agree with you, but those sort maintenance intervals border on OCD. Do you change your oil at 2000 miles too?
#11
just so your aware..
prob one of the biggest 'flaws' or things to go wrong on 00-01 cars.. are..
1.bad mass air flow sensor (100$ part.. easy DIY)
-you will get a feeling of lagging in throttle around 3,000rpm give or take,and the tranny might feel like its shifting weird.. thats the MAF,.. and 9 times out of 10 you will get no code thrown.. if I were to buy a used maxima, and that piece was orig .. i would replace it as '' regular/new owner maintaince'' with a new'er one which nissan apperently upgraded.
2. Coils.. (Green dots on top of them mean they were replaced with the upgraded ones,.. grey is orig,..if you take the nissan small engine cover off with a few screws you can see the front 3 right in front of you.. and see if thyey were ever replaced.)
-with this you will get a missfire,.. but almost 10 times out of 10 you will get a misfire code,.. but you might not get the code which says exactly which coil it is.
prob one of the biggest 'flaws' or things to go wrong on 00-01 cars.. are..
1.bad mass air flow sensor (100$ part.. easy DIY)
-you will get a feeling of lagging in throttle around 3,000rpm give or take,and the tranny might feel like its shifting weird.. thats the MAF,.. and 9 times out of 10 you will get no code thrown.. if I were to buy a used maxima, and that piece was orig .. i would replace it as '' regular/new owner maintaince'' with a new'er one which nissan apperently upgraded.
2. Coils.. (Green dots on top of them mean they were replaced with the upgraded ones,.. grey is orig,..if you take the nissan small engine cover off with a few screws you can see the front 3 right in front of you.. and see if thyey were ever replaced.)
-with this you will get a missfire,.. but almost 10 times out of 10 you will get a misfire code,.. but you might not get the code which says exactly which coil it is.
#12
Don't take my word for it, because I tend to tune out the 5.0 gen issues. But give it a couple minutes of search effort to figure it out.
#13
I wonder if the stealership did an actual tranny flush? Idk if they have the machines that flush, but if they do, I wouldn't buy it. I won't touch a car with a 10 ft pole that has had a tranny flush. You're asking for a dead tranny in 10k miles that way.
#14
On the 2000-2001, isn't the VIAS prone to break as well? It's a different configuration than the 5.5, and I think there are a lot of write-ups on how to use JB Weld to fix the VIAS.
Don't take my word for it, because I tend to tune out the 5.0 gen issues. But give it a couple minutes of search effort to figure it out.
Don't take my word for it, because I tend to tune out the 5.0 gen issues. But give it a couple minutes of search effort to figure it out.
#15
in your opinion.. it is the flush that causes problems.. where a filter/fluid change wont cause any problems...right?
#17
Thanks guys. This car has lots of oomph. I have driven it on the freeway and stomped on it a couple of times. No hesitation or tranny problems that I can discern. I ran it up to about 90 - 95 mph, with the salesman gritting his teeth.
I will have to double check the invoice they provided. It had a tranny servicing at 61,000 kilometres. It now has 135,000 kilometres on it and I don't know if there has ben a drain and fill or flush on it since. The last record I have on the car was at 98,500 at the stealership before it was coming off warranty. I don't have records between then and 135,000 kilometres.
I just ordered 3 bottles of Auto-rx. I have used it before on my 4th Gen with great success before I switched over to synthetic oil in 2004.
On the 5th Gen, I intend to use a bottle in the cranckcase and switch to synthetic after 6,000 miles (2 oil changes in the meantime), run it in the power steering reservoir and drain and fill it at the prescribed interval, and dump 6 ounces in the tranny and drain and fill after 1,000 miles. I will use the rest of it in the crankcase on a maintenance basis when switched over to synthetic oil.
On the 4th Gen, I will use it for my engine on a maintenance basis following the next oil change and I will use some in my power steering reservoir later on.
I have no intentions on doing a fuel injector flush in the 2000 Maxima. That sounds like bs to me. I will dump in a bottle of Chevron techron before the next oil change or use Gumout Regane. I can't find Gumout Regane anywhere in Canada so will have to go across the line to get it. I have used it before and its good stuff.
I will have to double check the invoice they provided. It had a tranny servicing at 61,000 kilometres. It now has 135,000 kilometres on it and I don't know if there has ben a drain and fill or flush on it since. The last record I have on the car was at 98,500 at the stealership before it was coming off warranty. I don't have records between then and 135,000 kilometres.
I just ordered 3 bottles of Auto-rx. I have used it before on my 4th Gen with great success before I switched over to synthetic oil in 2004.
On the 5th Gen, I intend to use a bottle in the cranckcase and switch to synthetic after 6,000 miles (2 oil changes in the meantime), run it in the power steering reservoir and drain and fill it at the prescribed interval, and dump 6 ounces in the tranny and drain and fill after 1,000 miles. I will use the rest of it in the crankcase on a maintenance basis when switched over to synthetic oil.
On the 4th Gen, I will use it for my engine on a maintenance basis following the next oil change and I will use some in my power steering reservoir later on.
I have no intentions on doing a fuel injector flush in the 2000 Maxima. That sounds like bs to me. I will dump in a bottle of Chevron techron before the next oil change or use Gumout Regane. I can't find Gumout Regane anywhere in Canada so will have to go across the line to get it. I have used it before and its good stuff.
#18
you should look into seafoam as well..it is kinda like BG44k or w/e that stuff is called that you mentioned earlier..
you pull it into the engine by the brake booster. and its real easy in this car there are videos if you search around..
ever now and again i do 1/2 a can in the brake booster and 1/2 a can in the crankcase and then i change my oil...(put it in cold, not while the engine oil is hot) and i use a big bottle of chevron techron fuel system cleaner.. works wonders.. and all that is under 20 bucks..
and for what its worth..
I just did those three things in my girls 06 GTP 3.9L ,.. and she went from 17mpg city to 20-21 city (actual measurement miles driven vs gallons used),.. I dont care what people say.. im a believer lol
you pull it into the engine by the brake booster. and its real easy in this car there are videos if you search around..
ever now and again i do 1/2 a can in the brake booster and 1/2 a can in the crankcase and then i change my oil...(put it in cold, not while the engine oil is hot) and i use a big bottle of chevron techron fuel system cleaner.. works wonders.. and all that is under 20 bucks..
and for what its worth..
I just did those three things in my girls 06 GTP 3.9L ,.. and she went from 17mpg city to 20-21 city (actual measurement miles driven vs gallons used),.. I dont care what people say.. im a believer lol
Last edited by mist max2000; 03-21-2010 at 06:18 PM.
#20
For the thread originator......If you have the Owner's Manual I think that you'd be safe to follow "Schedule 2" of the maintenance schedule (page 9-5 and you'll have to extrapolate over 96,000 kms) as this car seems to have had reasonable care/maintenance. And I don't care what anyone else says......DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT add ANY additive/s to the oil, EVER. How does injector "cleaning" by itself clean the TB?......it can't, the TB is way upstream from the injectors. Some Techron in the fuel once in a while won't hurt, but if you are using 91 octane at least, as you should be, the "premium" gas (Chevron at least) will have a slightly better "additive package" (that is from the head tech at Aircare, here in B.C., but he is not "endorsing" Chevron). If the car has no issues as you seem to suggest, and the tranny fluid still has a pink/red colour I would leave the tranny alone. If it has turned more of a dark colour, then just do the drain fluid (note the total amount drained), remove pan, clean the pan and magnets (there will be some fine friction material, "fine fuzz", which is normal), and don't disturb the screen, it is NOT a fluid "filter", it is just a debris/shrapnel screen to protect the pump, reinstall the pan (technically the bolts are self sealing and should be replaced per the FSM), replace the amount of fluid drained, run to get the tranny up to operating temp and recheck the fluid level and adjust as necessary. If the coolant in the rad (the colour of the coolant in the expansion tank could be a red herring) is not a nice green colour and/or there is no record of it being changed recently, then it might be worthwhile to do that. If the tranny fluid in the PS reservoir isn't a pinky/red colour (I'll bet that it still is) then do the "suck it out of the reservoir" and refill, if you wish. Don't worry about the O2 sensors, the don't fail at any predetermined mileage. You are getting reasonably close to the scheduled replacement for spark plugs......still dead easy on the Gen. 5, so you could do that anytime soon. The danger with any K&N air filter is the danger of the oil impinging on the MAF sensor and contaminating it. Save yourself the possible hassle and stick to stock. This is a Canadian car?
Last edited by P. Samson; 03-21-2010 at 07:48 PM.
#21
Thanks, P. Samson. This car was originally bought at King George Nissan in White Rock, BC and that is where it was traded in and where I bought it.
I have used Auto-rx with good results and will use it again. There are many knowledgeable members over at bitog who endorse the product.
The car has 135,400 kilometres on it. The radiator coolant was changed in December 2007 at 98,500 kilometres and is good to go for awhile yet.
The power steering reservoir was flushed at 74k. I will check it out.
The idiot sales manager when I walked in the door told me the 2000 Maxima runs on 87 octane and I just stared at him. When we drove the car off the lot we put in some 91 octane Shell gas to get the average octane in the tank up.
I don't know what octane the previous owners used, but my 95 Maxima has never seen a drop of 87 octane in its life and I have owned it since day 1.
I believe the car has the original plugs in it. The service guy says they change them at 105,000 miles (167,000 kilometres).
The 4th Gen owners manual calls for the plugs to be changed at 96,000 kilometres. I changed mine at 108,000 kilometres with NGK laser platinum OEM plugs.
My 95 Maxima has 131,750 kilometres on it. The 2000 just turned 135,400 kilometres.
I have used Auto-rx with good results and will use it again. There are many knowledgeable members over at bitog who endorse the product.
The car has 135,400 kilometres on it. The radiator coolant was changed in December 2007 at 98,500 kilometres and is good to go for awhile yet.
The power steering reservoir was flushed at 74k. I will check it out.
The idiot sales manager when I walked in the door told me the 2000 Maxima runs on 87 octane and I just stared at him. When we drove the car off the lot we put in some 91 octane Shell gas to get the average octane in the tank up.
I don't know what octane the previous owners used, but my 95 Maxima has never seen a drop of 87 octane in its life and I have owned it since day 1.
I believe the car has the original plugs in it. The service guy says they change them at 105,000 miles (167,000 kilometres).
The 4th Gen owners manual calls for the plugs to be changed at 96,000 kilometres. I changed mine at 108,000 kilometres with NGK laser platinum OEM plugs.
My 95 Maxima has 131,750 kilometres on it. The 2000 just turned 135,400 kilometres.
Last edited by Bobo; 03-21-2010 at 08:19 PM.
#22
So I will check out the tranny fluid and power steering fluid.
When have other 5th Gen members typically changed their original spark plugs?
I have no intention to replace them with anything but what came in the car in the first place.
I know a lot of the 4th Genners have used NGK coppers in the past, but not me.
When have other 5th Gen members typically changed their original spark plugs?
I have no intention to replace them with anything but what came in the car in the first place.
I know a lot of the 4th Genners have used NGK coppers in the past, but not me.
#23
Just a quick question.. can't find if it's been addressed in any threads yet (did i search for more than 5 minutes? no i didnt!) - 2001 20th anniversary edition.. replaced starter and battery before last winter - but i notice the car hesitates to start if it's been running recently.. like first start in the morning is good, but afterwards it sounds sluggish and lazy.. anyone know the fix for this?
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