My radiator developed a crack at the top (under intake). The fans sprayed coolant EVERYWHERE (fuse block, engine, battery, alternator, etc). This has probably been going on for months. I thought the spots were salt, nope.

Last week the TCS, ABS, Traction lights came on (usually a sign of bad abs sensor). Today the SES light came on too. I went to autozone (before SES light) and they couldn't find anything. I'll go again now that the SES light is on.

Is it possible I don't need an ABS sensor and the coolant mess could've shorted something? Does the ABS fuse just pull out? Could the coolant have damaged anything else?

 

Have you stopped the leak yet? seems to me that's a paramount problem to start with. Once that's done, you can troubleshoot more confidently...

 

I ordered the new radiator from the group buy. The car's parked till it gets here.

 

Yes, address the leak, then start trobleshooting.

 

ABS, TCS are not necessarily a sensor problem; in my case, those lights alternating with other ones meant bad alternator. It could be that coolant spraying on the alternator pulley made it slip.

 

Ive had the same problem with the cracked radiator before, however no issues with lights goins off... on a sidenote, what would be the best way to clean the engine bay after coolant is everywhere? its like a chalky film that wont go away with the use of engine degreaser, and makes my 02's engine bay look like one from the 20's... thanks

 

hm I had the same leak same spot. maybe its a fault in our rads. 2002 as well

 

Unique to the 5.5? I think not... Would you feel any better when I tell you that my 97 radiator self destructed in the same place?

 

I have a 2000 and had the same problem with me radiator and I just picked up a 2002 well guess what I just ordered another radiator for it so it not just a problem with a specific year.

 

I'm just glad the org had a writeup and group deal. Saved me a ton of cash and the install was EASY! It's all together, I still need to do a coolant flush then I'll get to the fuses and SES lights. I've been super busy lately.

 

Is there no TSB on this? Was this a common problem and was covered if you were within warranty?

 

Radiator is changed, coolant is flushed, and I went to autozone to check SES. Turns out the SES was for overheating. Strange because the needle never went higher than usual although the coolant was a bit low. They cleared it and it never came back.

Last night I believe my starter went. Good battery, good alt, tried jumping and nothing. Today I'm having it towed to a shop (it died at work). I wanted to do it myself using the how to on the org but I don't have ANY free time between working full time, grad courses and preparing for a bodybuilding competition. Oh well, looks like 100k means opening your wallet with these cars. Still a great car just lots of stupid sh_t going wrong that's costing me $$$

 

I changed my radiator as well, it was years ago but I think it was around that area. The car had well over 170k on it though, I'd hardly call that defective, at least in my case. Replace the radiator, reset the ses and drive for about 15-20 miles, street and expressway. You want to try and get through a drive cycle to see if any lights come back on. Also if you can, spray your engine bay with a hose and get ride of that coolant. Cover your intake filter if you have after market otherwise spray away.

 

I have a 2000 Maxima and one day driving on the Highway I smelled coolant , and I thought leaking problem, temperature was ok, when I stopped the car I realized it was coolant sprayed all over the engine, so it was hard to find leaking spot, but finally I found out that top of radiator was the problem, I just changed that part. ( black part).

 

Just out of curiosity, how much did it cost to replace that black part?

 

what black part are you speaking of. Im not sure if your talking about the plastic black part on top of the radiator. If you are, its not a replaceable part, You have to simply replace the entire radiator.

 

I guess it is doable; it looks like the person I was quoting (not me) did it without having to replace the entire radiator. That's who I was asking about the cost.

 

His point is there is nothing serviceable on a radiator...

When you put a new rad in, you attach hoses to entire thing, nothing to change or swap out.. Radiators are one piece.

 

I realize what his point is; it is off the mark and so is your comment. Radiator are not one piece, they are made of different parts put together, otherwise there would be no section in the FSM addressing the disassembly and re-assembly of radiators (page LC-18 of the 2000 FSM). If there is no serviceable or replaceable parts, there would be no radiator repair facilities around. The fact that a repair may or may not make financial sense to a consumer is up for them to decide. On a personal level, I prefer to replace the whole thing.

 

With special tools you can replace the part, but it's pointless, since it's a hard part to source and the tool is probably expensive. I paid $60 SHIPPED for a new radiator off of ebay. Pretty good quality, but not as nice as the Koyo in the group deal.

 

hey guys, Im also in need of a radiator. Where do I go to find the group deal you are referring to?

 

I'd like to know about this group deal on a radiator, too. The old girl has started a pinhole leak somewhere around the air intake. I can get a replacement radiator at AAP for about $175. Is the group deal a better buy?

 

KOYO Radiator Group Deal: http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...t-pricing.html

I purchased one about two months ago and it has been working great.

 

Thanks! That's a great price.

Edit: I saw someone on that thread mention Go-Part.com, so I took a look. They offer the same Koyo piece and, even with FedEx Ground shipping, it's cheaper than group buy. They also offer an insanely cheaper unit that would be even lower. Has anyone bought from Go-Part? Legit?

Also...is there a write-up on this installation? Or, at least on draining, refilling the cooling system? In all these years, I've never done a flush and fill. I assume your basic 50/50 mix of Prestone will do?

 

had this problem on my 00...and 02

 

Same crack, in the same place just this week in my 03, 113k miles.

POS part. Radiators should not be plastic!!!!

I paid about 135. My shop found me a direct replacement for 140 bucks. (S. Florida)

 

Anyone have pics of where this usually cracks at? im a noob and have antifreeze spray marks all over the front of the motor.

Thanks in advance

 

where the metal tabs wrap around the plastic piece on top

 

Thanks!

I just ordered a koyo. Hopefuly it arrives quickly.

 

Sirl,

I'm looking for one in S. Fla too. Where did you get yours?

 

I had the same problem until I changed the rad today. It took about 45 minutes and it was pretty simple.

 

Ordered the group buy Koyo radiator today. $140 free shipping. Advanced
Autoparts had one for $109 but it was called Redirad. Sounds cheezy. Napa could order one for $179. Should be here in 3 days. Anyone know how much antifreeze the system takes?

 

I know they are made of up different pieces, but as far as fixing a radiator, it's one piece.

Radiators used to be commonly fixed, but thesedays, you just replace the entire thing. Hence me saying one piece. Most people replace the stereo if it breaks, they do not replace some technically serviceable part, as it is not cost effective nor convenient.

 

Mine has a leak and currently searching for the source. I'll check here. Can you actually see the crack or is the engine running forcing the fluid out making it easy to find. Thanks!

 

Normally, seepage happens before a leak gets bad enough to actually let liquid squirt out.

Look for wetness all along where the metal tabs hold the top tank to the core after driving it. Exactly where it is coming from probably doesn't matter, as long as you can determine that it is NOT just coming from a bad upper hose or a clamping problem (which should leave the bottom of the hose wet).

In theory, it may be repairable. But mostly it's not worth the time or the risk that you might not get the repair any tighter than the leak that you're trying to fix.

You might also look around the engine side connection for the top hose, as there may be some seepage there as well. While the coolant is drained, you might as well pull the hose off completely and inspect the metal nozzle there. Scraping any coolant residue off the nozzle and lightly sanding it should fix most cases where the nozzle has not actually been eroded. A little weatherstrip adhesive and double-clamping a new hose may be sufficient to fix cases where there is only a little erosion (don't trust the old hose if it has seeped).


I just went through this on the 20AE at just over 100k miles. Under $150 for the radiator at a local radiator supply house (Tom Craig, in South Jersey for anybody near Philly). I did plug the little AT fluid nozzles in the replacement radiator since my car has no use for them (TC has only one radiator part number regardless of tranny, and it's probably the same story at most other aftermarket radiator sources). Worst part of the job was breaking off one of the screws and having to cut three of the push clips holding the passenger side undertray so I could get at the lower hose.


Norm

 

I pulled the radiator today and inspected all the hoses, but found nothing. It sounds like this is the problem with mine too though. My part didn't show up on the group deal though (2002). I wonder if that's just short-term.