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New rear brake pads- one side won't spin freely

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Old May 12, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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higney85's Avatar
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New rear brake pads- one side won't spin freely

Replaced brake pads on all 4 corners and the right rear caliper went in fully and pads installed easily. Unfortunately the tire (in the air) doesn't want to spin easily like the others. I ensured the e-brake wasn't on and the driver's side is fine. I bled the brakes and ensured that everything works (as in the caliper is not seized) and all is well. Unfortunately the pads are tight on the rotor (hence no free spinning wheel). I test drove the car and there is no pulling or braking issues but after a short drive (went to bed them) the right rear was much warmer (OK- hot) compared to the others. Is this something with big issues or simply needing to be driven a bit more to wear down the pads? I have powerslot drilled and slotted rotors on all corners. Pads are ceramic and I ensured (took the rears apart twice) that the correct pads are in their proper spots and put in correctly. I am a bit nervous of "why" this corner is having issues. Any ideas or recommendations?
Old May 12, 2010 | 08:21 PM
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The pistons in the rear calipers have 4 indentations (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock). They must be at 90-degree angles so one of those indentations lines up and slides over a stub on the pad. Did you ensure that you got that positioned correctly?
Old May 12, 2010 | 09:04 PM
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higney85's Avatar
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The pads I bought (at autozone- spare me plz, time crunch) had no tabs. All 3 other sides work fine which is what makes this perplexing. I'm wondering how much driving and/or possible long term damage would be done driving until the pads wear down to the proper tolerance. I just cannot figure out how/why one side is different than the other.
Old May 12, 2010 | 10:08 PM
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Your sure that the piston was wound in all the way?
Old May 13, 2010 | 05:39 AM
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Nelsito65's Avatar
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Originally Posted by higney85
The pads I bought (at autozone- spare me plz, time crunch) had no tabs. All 3 other sides work fine which is what makes this perplexing. I'm wondering how much driving and/or possible long term damage would be done driving until the pads wear down to the proper tolerance. I just cannot figure out how/why one side is different than the other.
I, personally, don't have anything against Autozone parts. As a matter of fact, my entire set of pads are ceramic from that store, and the rear ones do have the stubs at midpoint along the inward edge, for the piston to lock on. If your rear right caliper went in fully and pads installed easily but now they are tight, then perhaps that caliper is on its way out, unless I'm misinterpreting your explanation of the install.
Old May 13, 2010 | 05:46 AM
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higney85's Avatar
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The caliper itself slides over the pads just fine, it's once everything is buttoned up the tire won't spin. I am going to give it another look today and see what I can figure out.

edit: took the right rear back off and realized it does spin now but with more resistance than it should (getting there) and the pads are on correctly. The inner does have the tab and is seated in one of the indents on the piston. Now the question is- is it ok to drive and allow the heat to build while the rotor wears the pads down to the proper tolerance?

Last edited by higney85; May 13, 2010 at 09:19 AM.
Old May 21, 2010 | 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Nelsito65
The pistons in the rear calipers have 4 indentations (at 3, 6, 9 and 12 o'clock). They must be at 90-degree angles so one of those indentations lines up and slides over a stub on the pad. Did you ensure that you got that positioned correctly?

The NOOB that I am did not check this when I put my new rear calipers on. Will I need to rebleed if I turn the piston so one of those is at 90-degrees. Did I hose my pads? will they need replaced?
Old May 22, 2010 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by shawnpwilson
The NOOB that I am did not check this when I put my new rear calipers on. Will I need to rebleed if I turn the piston so one of those is at 90-degrees. Did I hose my pads? will they need replaced?
If, after you check, you find that you do need to turn your piston, that means that the back of the pad is not completely flat against the surface of the piston and it would not be riding flat against the rotor, causing an uneven wear pattern. If that is the case, you will need to replace the pad. However, you will not need to re-bleed the brakes.
Old May 22, 2010 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by higney85
The caliper itself slides over the pads just fine, it's once everything is buttoned up the tire won't spin. I am going to give it another look today and see what I can figure out.

edit: took the right rear back off and realized it does spin now but with more resistance than it should (getting there) and the pads are on correctly. The inner does have the tab and is seated in one of the indents on the piston. Now the question is- is it ok to drive and allow the heat to build while the rotor wears the pads down to the proper tolerance?
I think it is okay. There's not a lot of clearance in there when you have new pads so there is some rubbing at first. Hopefully the retaining clips are doing their job keeping the pads from being pressed against the rotor when brakes are not being applied.

Last edited by Nelsito65; May 22, 2010 at 07:18 AM.
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