5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

rear brakes replacement

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Old May 16, 2010 | 04:47 PM
  #1  
russ29's Avatar
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From: Columbus OH
rear brakes replacement

I have an I35 with 78k miles and the rear brakes are squelling so I need to replace. Are the rears hard to replace? I can replace fronts in my sleep but only replace rear disks once - in a 91 Tracer!

Any one have the steps or maint guide for rear brakes?
Old May 16, 2010 | 09:30 PM
  #2  
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the rears are about the same as the fronts, except that you have to screw the caliper into the cylinder, not push it. you can download the FSM here -
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/
Old May 17, 2010 | 12:42 AM
  #3  
CraigSE's Avatar
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From: London, ON, Canada
Same deal, except I personally like unbolting the e-brake bracket so i can get the caliper off easier.. Then you can remove the e-brake cable and just push that all aside. The rest is cake.
Old May 17, 2010 | 12:57 AM
  #4  
BronxSleeperMax187's Avatar
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From: BRONX
Originally Posted by russ29
I have an I35 with 78k miles and the rear brakes are squelling so I need to replace. Are the rears hard to replace? I can replace fronts in my sleep but only replace rear disks once - in a 91 Tracer!

Any one have the steps or maint guide for rear brakes?
Go to autozone and buy this piece before you do them...
it will help pushing cylinder back in caliber ...also you do need to push and turn at the same time to get it back in caliber...have A friend help cause that part aint easy alone...rest is the same as fronts
Old May 17, 2010 | 01:06 AM
  #5  
BronxSleeperMax187's Avatar
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From: BRONX
Originally Posted by DennisMik
the rears are about the same as the fronts, except that you have to screw the caliper into the cylinder, not push it. you can download the FSM here -
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

SBR868C
6. When installing new pads, push piston into cylinder body by
gently turning piston clockwise, as shown.
Carefully monitor brake fluid level because brake fluid will
return to reservoir when pushing back piston.
Old May 17, 2010 | 09:31 AM
  #6  
vinco's Avatar
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From: Hot Springs, AR
Originally Posted by BronxSleeperMax187

SBR868C
6. When installing new pads, push piston into cylinder body by
gently turning piston clockwise, as shown.
Carefully monitor brake fluid level because brake fluid will

return to reservoir when pushing back piston.
"Gently".... Yeah, sure.

DEFINITELY get the little block-shaped tool, though. It turns an hour-long struggle into a 2-minute small job to get the piston retracted. You just put it on a 6-inch extension on your 3/8" ratchet, and presto, turno, the piston just goes back in!
Old May 17, 2010 | 09:46 AM
  #7  
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From: Brandon, FL
You can loan the "caliper tool" from Autozone or any other auto parts that have them available (a fully-refundable deposit is required). It does make the job a lot easier.
Personally, I would stay away from unclipping the end of the e-brake cable from the caliper. Instead, I would unbolt the hook that holds that cable in place against the frame, just to get some slack when handling the caliper.
Also, be sure to position those grooves on the piston at 90-degree angles. One of them goes over a stub on the pads (unless you get pads that don't have them).

Last edited by Nelsito65; May 17, 2010 at 09:50 AM.
Old May 17, 2010 | 04:41 PM
  #8  
CraigSE's Avatar
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From: London, ON, Canada
Originally Posted by Nelsito65
You can loan the "caliper tool" from Autozone or any other auto parts that have them available (a fully-refundable deposit is required). It does make the job a lot easier.
Personally, I would stay away from unclipping the end of the e-brake cable from the caliper. Instead, I would unbolt the hook that holds that cable in place against the frame, just to get some slack when handling the caliper.
Also, be sure to position those grooves on the piston at 90-degree angles. One of them goes over a stub on the pads (unless you get pads that don't have them).
I agree with your logic to undo @ the frame, but the bolt on the bracket is the same size as the slides, and at least on a Canadian car, is much easier to remove. I fought with that other piece for a while before I just decided to remove the bracket which took 10 seconds.
Old May 17, 2010 | 06:30 PM
  #9  
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http://www.google.com/products/catal...CAcQ8wIwADgA#p

makes doing brake jobs with spinning pistons easier than you can imagine

Im very glad I got mine - needed it for work and its been one of the best tools I bought. I got a discount when I worked at Ford so I only paid $125 for it, but either way its still a great investment if you do a lot of rear brakes
Old May 17, 2010 | 07:01 PM
  #10  
Rods03Max619's Avatar
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From: Diego,California
Damn that seems a litttle complicated I know how to do the fronts with eas pads and rotors, never tried the rears!
Old May 17, 2010 | 07:33 PM
  #11  
CraigSE's Avatar
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Posts: 595
From: London, ON, Canada
Originally Posted by Rods03Max619
Damn that seems a litttle complicated I know how to do the fronts with eas pads and rotors, never tried the rears!
Not complicated at all, once you get in there, you'll see.
Old May 17, 2010 | 07:38 PM
  #12  
ayo_i35's Avatar
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Tahlequah, OK
I remember having to do this job not too long ago. I was in for a suprise when i noticed the rears weren't goin to just simply push back. Wound up just turning the pistons in with a pair of channel locks. Made for a nervous couple of hours since i didnt have a way home from work from an unfinished brake job
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