What is this? (Pics)
What is this? (Pics)
This black box is at the back driver's side of the car. Is it EVAP stuff?? If you look at the 1st picture, I discovered that a hose wasn't attached to the black box!!! I've been getting an EVAP related CEL for 2 years now.. could this be why? Also, in the 2nd picture, there is a small cylinder (looks broken on my car) further towards the rear of the car that this hose (the one that was disconnected) runs through before it gets to the big black box.
So here's the order of things from back to front: Little black box behind the bumper -> hose -> small black cylinder -> hose -> big black box -> hoses to the fuel tank area...
This small black cylinder appears to be broken somewhat... but I'm thinking it's just a sort of shield part thats broken... is it? I don't know what this cylinder looks like normally... Thanks for any help

So here's the order of things from back to front: Little black box behind the bumper -> hose -> small black cylinder -> hose -> big black box -> hoses to the fuel tank area...
This small black cylinder appears to be broken somewhat... but I'm thinking it's just a sort of shield part thats broken... is it? I don't know what this cylinder looks like normally... Thanks for any help


Yeah that is the EVAP box and could very well be the cause for the cel. go here and scroll to post 3, very nice layout for you of the whole evap system. its from the FSM if you have that.
Edit: customlowz beat me to it ha
Edit: customlowz beat me to it ha
Last edited by tdabboud; May 29, 2010 at 01:06 PM.
the hose that was unplugged could be the reason, but could that broken cylinder thing be malfunctioning? I don't know what it is supposed to look like when it's not broken... and I don't know what it does.
the broken cylinder is really nothing i took a picture so you can see what it should look like its just a piece of plastic. That cylinder is what separates the water, so the hose not being attached is most likely whats causing the problem.


Awesome. Thanks for posting that pic!
That is your charcoal filled evaporation canister. The hose that is detached is an air intake that will eventually be sucked into the intake manifold. The little round part that is behind the canister is essentially an air filter for the evap canister air intake.
.
The hose being disconnected is not the problem per se, but could cause one by allowing water into the evap canister, destroying the carbon and going down hill from there.
.
What can happen is that the carbon particles can start to come out of the evap canister and get sucked into the intake manifold. Two ways to see if this is happening.
.
1) Remove the evaporator purge cut valve that is on the upper intake manifold and see if you can shake any little black carbon bits out of it. or
2) On the evaporator canistor itself, remove the other 2 hoses that are still attached. BE CAREFUL... the plastic tubes that the hoses slide on to are rather wimpy and easy to break off. With the hoses off, get a spare piece of hose and attach it to the left most of the 2, the one closer to the tire. Put your finger over the spot where the big hose that came off goes and blow into the temporary hose you put on. There should be very little to no resistance to you blowing into the canister and most importantly, no carbon bits should blow out of the other hose tube connector.
.
If you have air flow resistance, you have to replace the evap canister. If you have carbon bits coming out, you have to replace the evap canister AND you will have to clean out the tubing line from the canister to the engine compartment, the evaporator purge cut valve, and the evaporator purge volume control valve.
.
It is more of a pita to type this than it is to do the work. Get TSB # NTB00-85A dated October 23, 2003 for directions with pictures.
.
The hose being disconnected is not the problem per se, but could cause one by allowing water into the evap canister, destroying the carbon and going down hill from there.
.
What can happen is that the carbon particles can start to come out of the evap canister and get sucked into the intake manifold. Two ways to see if this is happening.
.
1) Remove the evaporator purge cut valve that is on the upper intake manifold and see if you can shake any little black carbon bits out of it. or
2) On the evaporator canistor itself, remove the other 2 hoses that are still attached. BE CAREFUL... the plastic tubes that the hoses slide on to are rather wimpy and easy to break off. With the hoses off, get a spare piece of hose and attach it to the left most of the 2, the one closer to the tire. Put your finger over the spot where the big hose that came off goes and blow into the temporary hose you put on. There should be very little to no resistance to you blowing into the canister and most importantly, no carbon bits should blow out of the other hose tube connector.
.
If you have air flow resistance, you have to replace the evap canister. If you have carbon bits coming out, you have to replace the evap canister AND you will have to clean out the tubing line from the canister to the engine compartment, the evaporator purge cut valve, and the evaporator purge volume control valve.
.
It is more of a pita to type this than it is to do the work. Get TSB # NTB00-85A dated October 23, 2003 for directions with pictures.
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