Brakes Labor costs
Brakes Labor costs
Hi! I was wondering what everyone paid to have their front and rear brakes installed: rotors and pads. I just got quoted $270 + tax from a decent independent shop. Is that about right?
Another place, I got quoted at $100 per axle plus I would need new calipers in order for them to install since I have more than 100k miles. Everywhere else won't install brakes unless its their products since they handle warranty.
Another place, I got quoted at $100 per axle plus I would need new calipers in order for them to install since I have more than 100k miles. Everywhere else won't install brakes unless its their products since they handle warranty.
Is this exclusively labor? Did you purchase rotors and pads on the side and give them to the mechanic to install or will he purchase his own?
If this is labor only, you're on the high side. $270.00 breaks down to three hours at $90.00 an hour. Labor today should not be above $80.00. The average range is $65.00 to $75.00 per hour. Furthermore, this job books at two hours. I'd be hard pressed to believe this rate is fair.
Do the brakes yourself or find someone else unless you have the money, than it doesn't make any difference.
If this is labor only, you're on the high side. $270.00 breaks down to three hours at $90.00 an hour. Labor today should not be above $80.00. The average range is $65.00 to $75.00 per hour. Furthermore, this job books at two hours. I'd be hard pressed to believe this rate is fair.
Do the brakes yourself or find someone else unless you have the money, than it doesn't make any difference.
Hi,
So, calipers have to be changed after 100K? Was not aware of this. I'm at 130K. I had replaced front brake pads and rotors 4 months ago, and this new set gave squealing noise though braking was smooth. After a few months, braking causes car to pulsate like how it is with warped rotors. Any way I can find out whether it is the front or rear rotors that are warped? Any caliper issue being the culprit at all?
So, calipers have to be changed after 100K? Was not aware of this. I'm at 130K. I had replaced front brake pads and rotors 4 months ago, and this new set gave squealing noise though braking was smooth. After a few months, braking causes car to pulsate like how it is with warped rotors. Any way I can find out whether it is the front or rear rotors that are warped? Any caliper issue being the culprit at all?
Your about to get raped
...you can find tons of articles on how to change em yourself, or look for A street mechanic at your local autozone, or list your location and maybe somebody here will do em for cheaper for you.
...you can find tons of articles on how to change em yourself, or look for A street mechanic at your local autozone, or list your location and maybe somebody here will do em for cheaper for you.
Hi,
So, calipers have to be changed after 100K? Was not aware of this. I'm at 130K. I had replaced front brake pads and rotors 4 months ago, and this new set gave squealing noise though braking was smooth. After a few months, braking causes car to pulsate like how it is with warped rotors. Any way I can find out whether it is the front or rear rotors that are warped? Any caliper issue being the culprit at all?
So, calipers have to be changed after 100K? Was not aware of this. I'm at 130K. I had replaced front brake pads and rotors 4 months ago, and this new set gave squealing noise though braking was smooth. After a few months, braking causes car to pulsate like how it is with warped rotors. Any way I can find out whether it is the front or rear rotors that are warped? Any caliper issue being the culprit at all?
You can apply the emergency brake and it May tell you if rear, but if in doubt, get'em cut..... Did my gf's honda and could not visibly see any warping until they cut them..... doesn't take much..
BTW - The last owner of the car had pads/rotors installed about 12k miles agao and it cost him $500 (huh?) for very generic napa parts. So everything's relative. I ended up chaging everything because of a bad rotor or two that made the car shake like crazy when stopping.
Last edited by tombinator; Sep 10, 2010 at 08:00 AM.
At a local mechanic of mine, I was quoted just $125 to install 4 new fully loaded calipers (labor, i would be providing the calipers). Considering that rotors just slide on without much other effort, $270 seems a bit high.
AZ brake parts are crap. Go with Advance Auto Parts, and get decent ceramic pads. Cheap pads are what causes rotors to warp.
Is this exclusively labor? Did you purchase rotors and pads on the side and give them to the mechanic to install or will he purchase his own?
If this is labor only, you're on the high side. $270.00 breaks down to three hours at $90.00 an hour. Labor today should not be above $80.00. The average range is $65.00 to $75.00 per hour. Furthermore, this job books at two hours. I'd be hard pressed to believe this rate is fair.
Do the brakes yourself or find someone else unless you have the money, than it doesn't make any difference.
If this is labor only, you're on the high side. $270.00 breaks down to three hours at $90.00 an hour. Labor today should not be above $80.00. The average range is $65.00 to $75.00 per hour. Furthermore, this job books at two hours. I'd be hard pressed to believe this rate is fair.
Do the brakes yourself or find someone else unless you have the money, than it doesn't make any difference.
What is an "A street mechanic? I wouldn't pay some schmuck off the street to work on my brakes. OP, if you're not taking it to a professional, then learn how to do them yourself. There are tons of good info here.
I had the worst experience with Midas, the pads they kept giving me where their cheapest pads that squealed like a bus, and they would not put on the ceramic pads that i wanted. eventually went to a local shop and had semi metallic put on and never heard a peep from them. I didn't even do the bedding in process for the new ones. Mind you this was on a Chevy Lumina.
As for the cost Midas was around $300 with 2 new rotors, pads for the front and 1 caliper. For the local shop it cost me 150-210 for new rotors as and pads as the old pads chewed up the rotors.
As for the cost Midas was around $300 with 2 new rotors, pads for the front and 1 caliper. For the local shop it cost me 150-210 for new rotors as and pads as the old pads chewed up the rotors.
Last edited by ctsmith39; Oct 6, 2010 at 05:34 PM.
If it's $270 for labor and parts, I'd do it. I paid over $200 just for the front rotors and pads a few years ago.
But, can't you just do them yourself?
I just did rotors and pads this weekend. Trust me, if I can do it (by myself), just about anybody can do it!
Good write-up here: http://www.shiftice.com/brake_install.html
Of course, my front caliber bracket was rusted on and took forever to get off. Hint, forget the WD-40 and just use PB Blaster from the start! I probably spent an hour hitting that bolt with my impact wrench and couldn't get it budge.
May have been easier if I had a decent breaker bar, but there's only so much room in there. I think I ended up standing and bouncing on the bar before it finally broke loose.
Other than that, it's really just 4-5 bolts per wheel.
For the rear I broke down and bought the caliber compress tool (cheapie $10 box looking tool). 85k on the rear pads and turning that piston with needle nose just wasn't going to happen! Found it easier to remove the rotor, and put everything back together while compressing the piston - just couldn't get any leverage holding with one hand and trying to get the tool to stay on and using the rachet with the other.
I used rotors from Advance. Might be on the cheap side, but that's what they had in stock. I've been putting the job off forever, and finally had a weekend with nice weather, no soccer games, no b-day parties, and no weddings/family obligations!
Front were $45-50 (funny, they are only $36 on their website!; rear: $23; rear pads: $25-30. Already had front pads waiting (HPS).
Still, it was around $175 for the parts, and another $20 for the tool and brake clean.
Took me the better part of Saturday to do the front - including dragging out all the tools, lunch break, football break, etc. Took about 1/2 for the rear - getting all the tools out again, and more football breaks!
Seems like most of the time is spent dragging tools out and then putting them back. What's the point in having tools and a garage if you still have to drag everything out and work in the driveway?
But, can't you just do them yourself?
I just did rotors and pads this weekend. Trust me, if I can do it (by myself), just about anybody can do it!

Good write-up here: http://www.shiftice.com/brake_install.html
Of course, my front caliber bracket was rusted on and took forever to get off. Hint, forget the WD-40 and just use PB Blaster from the start! I probably spent an hour hitting that bolt with my impact wrench and couldn't get it budge.
May have been easier if I had a decent breaker bar, but there's only so much room in there. I think I ended up standing and bouncing on the bar before it finally broke loose.
Other than that, it's really just 4-5 bolts per wheel.
For the rear I broke down and bought the caliber compress tool (cheapie $10 box looking tool). 85k on the rear pads and turning that piston with needle nose just wasn't going to happen! Found it easier to remove the rotor, and put everything back together while compressing the piston - just couldn't get any leverage holding with one hand and trying to get the tool to stay on and using the rachet with the other.
I used rotors from Advance. Might be on the cheap side, but that's what they had in stock. I've been putting the job off forever, and finally had a weekend with nice weather, no soccer games, no b-day parties, and no weddings/family obligations!
Front were $45-50 (funny, they are only $36 on their website!; rear: $23; rear pads: $25-30. Already had front pads waiting (HPS).
Still, it was around $175 for the parts, and another $20 for the tool and brake clean.
Took me the better part of Saturday to do the front - including dragging out all the tools, lunch break, football break, etc. Took about 1/2 for the rear - getting all the tools out again, and more football breaks!
Seems like most of the time is spent dragging tools out and then putting them back. What's the point in having tools and a garage if you still have to drag everything out and work in the driveway?
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