Stuttering When Cold ...
#1
Stuttering When Cold ...
This is the first time I'm driving the Maxima in the winter time (bought it a few months ago) and it stutters really bad on cold mornings (for a few miles) The MAF has been replaced with the updated one and the ECM has been reflashed by the previous owner (got receipt). It's not throwing any codes at all.
What should I start checking/replacing? I performed a tune up a few months ago (plugs, fuel filter, air filters, etc.) I haven't cleaned the throttle body yet.
I'm worried that I have to changed the intake manifold gaskets. It's a $500 dollar job around where I live (all three gaskets).
What should I start checking/replacing? I performed a tune up a few months ago (plugs, fuel filter, air filters, etc.) I haven't cleaned the throttle body yet.
I'm worried that I have to changed the intake manifold gaskets. It's a $500 dollar job around where I live (all three gaskets).
#3
IMO ... it's hard to describe ... It seems that it's skipping or sounding like a boxer engine. I don't have any codes at all. It only does it when I first started in the morning. It stutters less when it's not cold out. Some people say it's the MAF and other say it's an intake leak.
#4
My car does that as well, although not year round, only when its cold. And its not for a few miles, probably only 100 feet or so upon driving away, it doesnt do it while idling, only on the first start of the day.
#9
Most likely the POS plastic intake. When it's cold it warps a little and you get a slight vacuum leak around the intake manifold. When it warms up it expands so no more leak, runs fine. Usually you have to replace the gasket. Replacement from Nissan is a little thicker to prevent it from happening again.
#10
Most likely the POS plastic intake. When it's cold it warps a little and you get a slight vacuum leak around the intake manifold. When it warms up it expands so no more leak, runs fine. Usually you have to replace the gasket. Replacement from Nissan is a little thicker to prevent it from happening again.
#11
Yes, there are three gaskets, one upper and two lower.
If you have to do the gaskets, and want to save the $500+ to have someone do it, a good place to start would be with this:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Gar...eplacement.htm
It shows how to replace the spark plugs, which requires taking off the upper intake manifold, giving you access to the upper gasket. It shouldn't be too much more work to get to the lowers.
If you have to do the gaskets, and want to save the $500+ to have someone do it, a good place to start would be with this:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Gar...eplacement.htm
It shows how to replace the spark plugs, which requires taking off the upper intake manifold, giving you access to the upper gasket. It shouldn't be too much more work to get to the lowers.
#12
Yes, there are three gaskets, one upper and two lower.
If you have to do the gaskets, and want to save the $500+ to have someone do it, a good place to start would be with this:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/2002MaxSE/SparkPlugReplacement.htm
It shows how to replace the spark plugs, which requires taking off the upper intake manifold, giving you access to the upper gasket. It shouldn't be too much more work to get to the lowers.
If you have to do the gaskets, and want to save the $500+ to have someone do it, a good place to start would be with this:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/2002MaxSE/SparkPlugReplacement.htm
It shows how to replace the spark plugs, which requires taking off the upper intake manifold, giving you access to the upper gasket. It shouldn't be too much more work to get to the lowers.
#14
#15
#16
#18
My car does that as well, although not year round, only when its cold. And its not for a few miles, probably only 100 feet or so upon driving away, it doesnt do it while idling, only on the first start of the day.
Just seems like the engine sort of roars for a while in the cold, but like you said once it's warm it's fine and it's only the first start of the day that it does it.
#22
I have the sameproblem if i dont let it warm up. If i drive away as soon as i start it, it stutters , but if i sit there and let it warm up , then drive it, i have zero issues.
I think it might be coolant temp sensor related somehow because when cold, the ECU is in open loop and running rich due to the temp readings from the coolant temp sensor. Once it gets to over 160 degrees it switches to closed loop and runs off of long term memory.
Sorry i'm rambling but i suspect it's a coolant temp sensor issue because if i drive away w/o letting it warm up and drive normnally, it stutters , but if i smash on the gas pedal it drives fine.
But it could also be MAF related, and a failing MAF won't throw any trouble codes, for some reason only if it is completly dead or disconnected will it throw a dtc.
i probably won't ever know what the problem is but if i do i will be sure to post here.
I think it might be coolant temp sensor related somehow because when cold, the ECU is in open loop and running rich due to the temp readings from the coolant temp sensor. Once it gets to over 160 degrees it switches to closed loop and runs off of long term memory.
Sorry i'm rambling but i suspect it's a coolant temp sensor issue because if i drive away w/o letting it warm up and drive normnally, it stutters , but if i smash on the gas pedal it drives fine.
But it could also be MAF related, and a failing MAF won't throw any trouble codes, for some reason only if it is completly dead or disconnected will it throw a dtc.
i probably won't ever know what the problem is but if i do i will be sure to post here.
#23
try this
hey there i have simular issue, but i also have problems with it firing up as well, when its cold and you have the stutter, put it in "p" and slowly allow the revs to reach 2000 see if it hangs there and if the rpms drop a bit, im having simular issues this what i have done and if yours does stick at 2000 when cold dont bother replacing these items to solve it cuz i already did lol...
replaced coolant temp sensor
replaced fuel strainer
replaced all plugs
replaced plenum gasket
replace air filter
cleaned:
maf
ground wires
fuel system
tps
intake air temp
tested:
maf
fuel trim
tps
cts again...
batt
..... im stumped at what it could be..... there is no hope for me ive learned to deal with the hard starting and hesitation.
i know its not to serious because it only hesitates when cold, and only between 1500 to 2000 rpm below or over its totally fine.... and pretty much completley dissapears when warm
i know that 02 sen. only kicks in once in closed loop( warm) but there may be one that contorls fuel and air mixture when cold, but im pretty sure the maf takes care of that in the cold weather until it warms up
hope you solve your problem!!!! if you do let me know what it was
replaced coolant temp sensor
replaced fuel strainer
replaced all plugs
replaced plenum gasket
replace air filter
cleaned:
maf
ground wires
fuel system
tps
intake air temp
tested:
maf
fuel trim
tps
cts again...
batt
..... im stumped at what it could be..... there is no hope for me ive learned to deal with the hard starting and hesitation.
i know its not to serious because it only hesitates when cold, and only between 1500 to 2000 rpm below or over its totally fine.... and pretty much completley dissapears when warm
i know that 02 sen. only kicks in once in closed loop( warm) but there may be one that contorls fuel and air mixture when cold, but im pretty sure the maf takes care of that in the cold weather until it warms up
hope you solve your problem!!!! if you do let me know what it was
#24
It still sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you ever get a smoke machine test? It could be a lower intake gasket, but usually I see that on cars with plastic intakes, not so much on the metal ones (other than Chevys lol)
#25
Most likely the POS plastic intake. When it's cold it warps a little and you get a slight vacuum leak around the intake manifold. When it warms up it expands so no more leak, runs fine. Usually you have to replace the gasket. Replacement from Nissan is a little thicker to prevent it from happening again.
From what I've heard about plastic intakes on GMs and given the exhaustive list of what is almost-assuredly not the problem, I think this suggestion is the most probable.
#26
If it is indeed an intake leak when cold out, it should stutter when in P or neutral right?
well when i rev up the engine there is no stutter until it has a load on it ( start to drive ) .
So what i'll have to do to determine if it is in fact an intake leak is when cold get a can of carb clean and spray the hell out of the instake area , the idle should dip if the carb cleaner gets in the gap
well when i rev up the engine there is no stutter until it has a load on it ( start to drive ) .
So what i'll have to do to determine if it is in fact an intake leak is when cold get a can of carb clean and spray the hell out of the instake area , the idle should dip if the carb cleaner gets in the gap
#27
ya seems to be a common prob among us maxi owners. I have the same issue. Only on a cold start when driving away for the first 100ft like the other member previously mentioned..no probs at idle but only when initially driving away for maybe about 2 mins, then once the temp gauge is half way like ol boy previously mentioned..its fine. so whats the prob the MAF??
#28
ya seems to be a common prob among us maxi owners. I have the same issue. Only on a cold start when driving away for the first 100ft like the other member previously mentioned..no probs at idle but only when initially driving away for maybe about 2 mins, then once the temp gauge is half way like ol boy previously mentioned..its fine. so whats the prob the MAF??
MAF i would say is the best candidate for the problem.
since my wifes G20 uses the same MAF sensor as my MAxima i might try and swap them out to see how it reacts
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